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Cubjo
1st July 2009, 01:45 PM
Hey all

First to introduce myself. My name is Robert Green and I live near Hobart in Tasmania.

At present I have done no wood turning but have always wanted to give it a try. I am hoping to buy a lathe and equipment next week and start my new hobby (and get me away from this blasted computer). I was wondering if anyone could recommend any books or other resources for an ultra beginner. I was hoping to do an adult ed course but it only runs in the afternoon and I work nights starting at around 4pm each day.

Another thing I have been wondering is blank preperation. I have read up on how to do it from green log form to getting it onto the lathe. I have read that it can take up to 6 months to dry the logs (especially here in Tassie) but have also heard you can kiln dry the logs. I havent read anything on how this is done. I have access to a powdercoating oven which can heat up to 300 degrees celsius. I fear that doing so would crack the wood to the point of being unusable but if this is the case how do people kiln dry it?

I am sorry for being totally new to all this. I have read a lot of the threads you guys have posted and am hoping to be able to show some works and take part in the conversations around here.

Best regards
Robert

jackliveshere
1st July 2009, 02:42 PM
Hi Robert, welcome to the forum mate - it is a great place to chill out and learn plenty about woodworking from so many experience people.

I've just started woodturning myself and I find it very rewarding as I'm sure you will too. The best place I've found for information is on the web and through a couple of books from the library. There are plenty of videos around too on the web on various elements of turning which are great as it's like having a lesson right there in your own house (well almost!). I think some classes would be great, but haven't done any myself, just haven't had the time. I sort of just jumped straight into it. Did an initial little bit of reading just about some general principals of the lathe (and safety of course) then slapped on a square piece of spindle stock and went for it.

I've got no doubt that you'll pick it up just by playing around and trying things out for yourself. What I can recommend though, is spend some time at the beginning in working out how to sharpen your tools quickly and easily. It can easily get you down at the start if you are playing with these brand new tools and they aren't cutting properly - inevitably you think it is the operator instead of the tools.

In terms of gear, I picked up a cheap second hand lathe out of the paper one day. Didn't cost very much, but will get me going and will allow me to hone my skills. I also purchased an entry level set of tools similar to this (http://www.carbatec.com.au/woodturning-tools/woodturning-tools-chisels-accessories/woodturning-tools-chisel-sets/carba-tec-6-piece-turning-chisel-set) set from Carbatec. They are ample enough to get a beginner going. I also purchased a white wheel for my bench grinder to allow me to sharpen my tools and just made some jigs to help me do so out of scrap. Basically the only other cost was a face shield I think, but even safety glasses will do. Woodturning costs can build very quickly and can seem to get out of control, but at the beginning I think it is manageable to at least give you then opportunity to try the hobby out.

For the blank preparation; I don't think a lot of hobbists would kiln dry their own blanks - someone else will shed some light on this I'm sure. The easiest way for me to prepare green blanks is to cut them down to size with a little electric chainsaw, mount on the lathe, rough turn the item, then let it dry and remount and finish turning it. There are many ways to do things though and their are plenty of threads on this forum about all facets of the process, that is, how to cut up the log, how to yield the optimal number of blanks from the log, how to prepare it to mount to the lathe etc. Do a couple of searches and you'll come up with plenty. The best thing about using raw green wood in log form is that it's cheap - in most cases free. get it from neighbours, friends, your own yard, the dump, tree loppers - people are always chopping down trees and heaps of it is suitable for turning, just keep your eyes peeled :U

Anyway, mate i'm sure you will never look back if you pick up a cheap lathe and teach yourself to turn. It's mad fun that's for sure :2tsup:

Cheers,

Will

terry arnold
1st July 2009, 09:31 PM
Gooday Robert
As you can see from my details I also live here in Tassie and like you I'm fairly new to turning I have found the second best place to gather information is the Tasmanian State Library the first being the forum you are on as long as you ask the questions someone will probably give you an answer.

As for drying logs I have turned green bowls and then put them in the microwave to dry the more quickly but always expect some distortion with microwave drying.

anyway Robert I hope you enjoy your new hobby.

Cheers Terry

KenW
2nd July 2009, 06:40 PM
Will, I don't agree with the advice given to you about a cheap starter set of tools.
Most cheap sets have tools that are not the correct shape. You will find learning using these tools frustrating. Buy good quality tools a couple at a time, you only need about five chisels to get started. Buy dry wood, you have access to some of the best timbers where you live.

issatree
2nd July 2009, 08:15 PM
Welcome Robert,
You will wonder why you did not start earlier. If it is possible for you, buy a reasonable Lathe, say up to $2000, hoping that is possible,. Buy a cheap one & after you have out grown it, you will find you can't sell it.
There are tools & tools. Buy, say unhandled P&N, Australian made, or John McJing's Chinese HSS Turning Tools. I have 5 pieces like those, & cannot fault this Chinese steel. HSS = High Speed Steel.
I'm a Richard Raffan fan, but a Keith Rowley book is I'm told the way to go. Library, second hand book shop, You may even find someone on The Forums may lend you some or give them to you.
You will need a Grinder, seems 8in. is popular, but I have always used 6in.-150mm. with 2 white allum. oxide wheels, say 60 or 80 grit as well as a 120grit.
Use only incandesent lighting, no flourescent, well not to turn with anyway.
Rough Turn a piece of wood, weigh it, & microwave it on high,1 minute for every 100 grams. You will need to write on the wood as you go. This works very well.
That should keep you going for awhile.
Regards,
issatree.

crow400
2nd July 2009, 09:09 PM
Good to see you on the forum Robert. It's has been a grest source of information (and entertainment). I am fairly new to turning and have benefited from membership of a woodworking club. There may be a club in Hobart that you could join, where information on tools needed, and where to obtain timber as well as hands on assistance could prove invaluable.
Best wishes,
Crow

orificiam
2nd July 2009, 10:08 PM
Welcome to the Forum Robert --Happy Turning.
Cheers Tony.:2tsup:

powderpost
2nd July 2009, 10:29 PM
Again, don't go down the path of cheap tools. Go for a 25mm roughing gouge, 12mm detail gouge and a 25mm skew chisel. This is by no means a complete kit but will get you started on spindles. For face plate work you will need a 12mm bowl gouge and a 25mm round nose scraper. Again this is not by any means a complete set, only a starter. Go for high speed steel tools, preferably without handles and make your own handles. There is a wip for making handles on the board.
Jim

Cubjo
2nd July 2009, 10:50 PM
Thanks heaps for the replies.

The Lathe I am looking at buying is $460. I know it isnt much but it will get me started and if I do get drawn in like I am hoping I can justify $2000 then...cant really justify it on an unknown hobby just yet.

As for tools I was told by the sales person (who actually made a short plank look like a computer) that it would cost me $160 for a set of 6...I am guessing this is considered a cheap set but really dont have a clue. I dont know what is in set. I am actually writing down all the relevant info you guys are telling me so I actually sound like I know what I am talking about when I do buy it all.

I am looking on ebay and amazon.com for books by Raffan and Rowley...there are so many I dont know which one to start with :D

Skew ChiDAMN!!
2nd July 2009, 10:56 PM
As Issatree said, you will need a grinder.

It's a must; you most definitely will not enjoy turning if you can't sharpen your chisels. And they blunten so, so quickly... :sigh:

A 6" bench-grinder will do if you already have one, just buy an Aluminium Oxide (White) wheel for it. If you don't already have one, you're better off buying an 8" grinder. If budget doesn't allow and you've no choice but to go for a 6" job, make sure you get one which'll take 1" wide wheels.

(Learning to sharpen turning tools is hard enough as it is without making it unnecessarily difficult for yourself.)

Cubjo
2nd July 2009, 11:20 PM
Yeah a grinder is definetly on the cards...it wasnt until I started reading these forums...but I will definetly be getting an 8" grinder when I get everything

Seventh Wood
3rd July 2009, 06:44 AM
Hi Cubjo,

It si good to see the wealth of advice you are getting - I have found the WWF very useful in my recent start to woodturning. It was all a bit overwhelming getting all of the stuff together, but I had a head start as I have hoarded timber and have lots of joinery tools, but I still found it challenging.

I looked around for good second hand lathes for years in Adelaide and could have picked up a good vintage Woodfast, but I got depressed at offerings of lathes that had not been used for 10 years and had quietly rusted in an old shed and were being sold off by widows who had the original receipts and wanted $1500 for a lathe that was past it. I ended up getting a new Teknatool 1624-44 with a Supernova chuck and am quite happy with the lathe.

Getting together chisels seemed a challenge but after a couple of auctions and a 40% off sale and a few buys at the TWWW shows, I now have 27 assorted woodturnig chisels! I am now buying some P&N chisels unhandled and am making my own handles in Jarrah, and have also replaced the silly little handles on some of my chisels with more blokey handles.

I do a lot of my own timber prepration so have a 350 mm Woodfast bandsaw - again bandsaws regularly come up at auctions, etc. Storage space for timber can be a problem, but I have 3 sheds on a rural property so I can store it all under cover, with the prepared blanks in a fully insulated part of my workshop.

Then there is getting the time to use it all - even in semi-retirement I seem to have far too little time to do turning, and then SWMBO keeps asking where am I going to put all these turnings? A lot of friends, relatives, etc have got bowls, etc as presents!

All the best with your startup

Cheers,

Geoff from 7Hill

artme
3rd July 2009, 08:22 AM
G'day Cubjo and welcome to the vortex.

Another believer in good quality tools here. Cheap usually means poor steel and often poor shape. Steer clear. You may find good 2nd hand tools somewhere in the pages of the papers. Look for brands such as Henry Taylor, Hamlet, P&N, Robert Sorby and Crown.

Cubjo
3rd July 2009, 02:15 PM
Hey all

I just went and had a look at some lathes. This one is in my price range atm

http://www.carbatec.com.au/woodturning-tools/lathes-accessories/carba-tec-economy-mini-lathe

Any feedback on this item or criticism would be appreciated. Bear in mind I have never done this before and am only after something basic to get me started and then I will get a better unit after a while.

The tools they had were chinese stuff....roughly $30 a tool. They also had some P&N with handles for around $90 per tool. Based on what I have been told so far I will get the P&N 25mm roughing gouge, 12mm Detail gouge and a 25mm skew chisel. They only had the 1 8" grinder which was $468 so I will look around for something more in my price range at this point in time. As I said I will get the more expensive/better stuff when I am hooked

thanks in advance
Robert

RETIRED
3rd July 2009, 04:34 PM
Gooday. They are a good liitle lathe.

Instead of the roughing gouge get a 3/8(10mm) bowl gouge.

You can use the smaller gouge to rough out but none of the others will do a bowl.

jackliveshere
3rd July 2009, 04:49 PM
Will, I don't agree with the advice given to you about a cheap starter set of tools.
Most cheap sets have tools that are not the correct shape. You will find learning using these tools frustrating. Buy good quality tools a couple at a time, you only need about five chisels to get started.

I'm curious on opinions of buying cheap tools when you are a total beginner. The thread was started by someone who hadn't done any turning at all. From my point of view, I don't see much use in out laying lots of cash without knowing whether you like it and want to keep going. I reckon those $150 set of 6 tools isn't bad value to get you going - they are HSS, hold an edge well and will get you going. Spending $90 on a single tool and having to buy at a minimum 3 to get you going is a bit more of an outlay then $150. Say you bought 6 tools @ $90 a tool, you are out $540.

Don't get me wrong, I am all for quality tools as I have stated in other threads and I will buy them from now on when I need them as I progress as a beginner turner - but as a starter without knowing anything about turning and whether it will be liked, I don't think it can be justified.

Also I'm curious about recommendations on buying tools straight away without handles. How are you to turn handles as a novice without having any handled tools to turn with?? Again i'm all for turning handles yourself and I have done so, but without any tools at first?

Skew ChiDAMN!!
3rd July 2009, 05:01 PM
I'm curious on opinions of buying cheap tools when you are a total beginner.

I tend to agree with you. Not only for the initial cost factor, but because a beginner needs to learn to sharpen. Few people buy a sharpening jig right off the bat and so start at the deep end: freehand sharpening.

There are two types of people; those who'll throw their hands in the air and scrimp'n'save to buy a jig or those who'll persevere and learn the art of freehanding.

They also give an idea of which good quality tools to buy first; they'll be the ones that are used the most.

And the ones that aren't use at all? There'll come a time when a turner wants to experiment with different grinds, captive rings, etc... and the unused tools provide a ready made vehicle for experimenting without ruining the regular "users."

jackliveshere
3rd July 2009, 05:13 PM
Yes the sharpening factor is another good point. I'd hate to buy a $90 tool as a beginner and start muffing it up all over the place cause I can't sharpen! haha. I'd feel terrible and get down about it. Definitely a place for mid-level starter sets to get going - and hey I even use all the 6 tools from my start set regularly and it allows me to hone my skills for each one. Once they are worn out I will upgrade one at a time to a nice flash one :2tsup:

KenW
3rd July 2009, 06:49 PM
I'm curious on opinions of buying cheap tools when you are a total beginner. The thread was started by someone who hadn't done any turning at all. From my point of view, I don't see much use in out laying lots of cash without knowing whether you like it and want to keep going. I reckon those $150 set of 6 tools isn't bad value to get you going - they are HSS, hold an edge well and will get you going. Spending $90 on a single tool and having to buy at a minimum 3 to get you going is a bit more of an outlay then $150. Say you bought 6 tools @ $90 a tool, you are out $540.

Don't get me wrong, I am all for quality tools as I have stated in other threads and I will buy them from now on when I need them as I progress as a beginner turner - but as a starter without knowing anything about turning and whether it will be liked, I don't think it can be justified.

Also I'm curious about recommendations on buying tools straight away without handles. How are you to turn handles as a novice without having any handled tools to turn with?? Again i'm all for turning handles yourself and I have done so, but without any tools at first?
I stand by my origional comment. Most of the cheap starter kits contain chisels that are useless. None of them contain a true bowl gouge, which makes turning bowls hard work. If you are concerned about spending money on tools, join a club and use theirs.

jackliveshere
3rd July 2009, 07:24 PM
What is the definition of a true bowl gouge then? I would say it's a gouge that enables you to shape a bowl :) I might be just a newbie, but if I can turn a bowl use the 'bowl gouge' that is in those $150 starter kits, then isn't it not a bowl gouge?

A 'chisel that is useless' as you have put it, would be a chisel that CANNOT be used to turn something would it not? Well obviously that's not true - they can't be useless as they have been used to turn things....all 6 chisels in the set and they will be used over and over again to turn things. Just because it's not a $90 name brand chisel, doesn't make it useless. It's as good as the person who is using it in my opinion.

Some people don't have time for clubs etc and just want to get going in the hobby of turning. These chisel sets provide a good introductory set where someone can pick up turning easily and produce quality turnings.

jefferson
4th July 2009, 04:37 PM
Rob, I've got a spare 3/8 bowl gouge I can send you.

PM me your address and it's yours. It's one of those NZ jobs with the replaceable tips. (Someone might know the breed).

Jeff

Skew ChiDAMN!!
4th July 2009, 04:43 PM
Woodcut?

robbiebgraham
4th July 2009, 04:57 PM
Don't buy the cheap tools in most cases the steel wont hold an edge and you will get very frustrated. P&N's are a good choice with very good steel and Hamlet make good tools as well and are very affordable. Woodcut are excellent with replacement tips and cost very little to replace, when worn down.
Robbie

jefferson
4th July 2009, 05:01 PM
Woodcut?

Skew, a Woodcut it is. Thanks for reminding me!:2tsup:

Jeff

Ray153
4th July 2009, 05:31 PM
A 'chisel that is useless' as you have put it, would be a chisel that CANNOT be used to turn something would it not? Well obviously that's not true - they can't be useless as they have been used to turn things....all 6 chisels in the set and they will be used over and over again to turn things. Just because it's not a $90 name brand chisel, doesn't make it useless. It's as good as the person who is using it in my opinion.

Some people don't have time for clubs etc and just want to get going in the hobby of turning. These chisel sets provide a good introductory set where someone can pick up turning easily and produce quality turnings.

The problems as I see them with the cheap sets are thet they are often made with lesser quality steels, often carbon steel. They will form an edge off the grinder but will not hold it for very long. Consequently, you end up going back to the grinder frequently.

Imagine it like you are learning to drive a car. Picture if each time you moved off in the car, you had to stop when you had driven 3 kilometres, get out and walk round the car before getting back in and driving away again. Just as you have got to a point where you have everything working smoothly in co-ordination, you have to stop, move away from the controls, carry out another task and then try all over again to get back to the point you were at previously. That would be the carbon steel, cheaper tool.

A blunt tool is what can lead to catches, bites and these can lead to accidents on the lathe. Additionally, the novice turner can fall into the trap of persisting with a blunt tool which can only lead to frustration.

Frustration with tearout, uneven surfaces, burnish marks and generally poor surfaces overall. I would argue that it is extremely difficult to get a good quality finish off the tool with a cheaper quality tool. To rectify this you just spend much more time going through the various grits of sandpaper, losing much of the shape definition that you worked for in the first place.

You then end up not enjoying yourself or the result of your turnings.

Good quality tools will not hold an edge forever, but they will hold it for a damn sight longer than a cheap tool. There is a huge difference between the end results obtained from carbon steel vs high speed steel.

HSS tools allow you to continue the learning process in our metaphorical car for a greater distance, say 20=25 kilometres before you have to stop the car and get out to walk around it.

If you do decide to give away the hobby, it is much easier and you are more likely to recoup a higher amount of your outlay if you sell off your chisels, if they are good quality tools. I would imagine that most people are likely to buy good quality second hand turning tools than poor/average quality ones.

Cubjo
4th July 2009, 06:32 PM
Firstly thank you to everyone for the great advice. And thank you heaps to Jeff for the fantastic offer. I was going to be going with the cheaper set due to finances. But with Jeff sending me the 3/8 Bowl Gouge I can now justify buying the other 2 chisels to start my collection. I will be going to Melbourne tomorrow for some fun with my kids and back on Weds so I will buy the Carba Tec lathe on Thurs and hope to start my hobby

Oh also more good news...spoke with my boss earlier...he can get me heaps of huon pine offcuts for nothing and any huon pine pieces I need he can get real cheap....he is asking about other timbers as well

RETIRED
5th July 2009, 09:25 AM
You are more than welcome to call in here if in Melb. You never know what might happen. May get a quick lesson, you never know.:D

jackliveshere
5th July 2009, 05:38 PM
The problems as I see them with the cheap sets are thet they are often made with lesser quality steels, often carbon steel. They will form an edge off the grinder but will not hold it for very long. Consequently, you end up going back to the grinder frequently.

Imagine it like you are learning to drive a car. Picture if each time you moved off in the car, you had to stop when you had driven 3 kilometres, get out and walk round the car before getting back in and driving away again. Just as you have got to a point where you have everything working smoothly in co-ordination, you have to stop, move away from the controls, carry out another task and then try all over again to get back to the point you were at previously. That would be the carbon steel, cheaper tool.

A blunt tool is what can lead to catches, bites and these can lead to accidents on the lathe. Additionally, the novice turner can fall into the trap of persisting with a blunt tool which can only lead to frustration.

Frustration with tearout, uneven surfaces, burnish marks and generally poor surfaces overall. I would argue that it is extremely difficult to get a good quality finish off the tool with a cheaper quality tool. To rectify this you just spend much more time going through the various grits of sandpaper, losing much of the shape definition that you worked for in the first place.

You then end up not enjoying yourself or the result of your turnings.

Good quality tools will not hold an edge forever, but they will hold it for a damn sight longer than a cheap tool. There is a huge difference between the end results obtained from carbon steel vs high speed steel.

HSS tools allow you to continue the learning process in our metaphorical car for a greater distance, say 20=25 kilometres before you have to stop the car and get out to walk around it.

If you do decide to give away the hobby, it is much easier and you are more likely to recoup a higher amount of your outlay if you sell off your chisels, if they are good quality tools. I would imagine that most people are likely to buy good quality second hand turning tools than poor/average quality ones.

Yeah that is fair enough for REAL cheap sets. but if you have read my posts, the set I am talking about and is a good introductory set is HSS and holds an edge well.

I agree with carbon steel sets, but have never been talking about a carbon steel set.

jefferson
5th July 2009, 08:26 PM
You are more than welcome to call in here if in Melb. You never know what might happen. May get a quick lesson, you never know.:D

Cubjo,

I urge you to take up 's offer for lessons. I'm not sure exactly how many Little Grasshoppers has under his wing at the moment, but Tea Lady and I are getting better (hopefully!).

He's a rough diamond our :wink:, but he does very well in helping the new hands along.

A word of warning though. Be prepared for plenty of cups of tea. :D:D:D

Jeff

jefferson
5th July 2009, 08:35 PM
Will, I don't agree with the advice given to you about a cheap starter set of tools.
Most cheap sets have tools that are not the correct shape. You will find learning using these tools frustrating. Buy good quality tools a couple at a time, you only need about five chisels to get started. Buy dry wood, you have access to some of the best timbers where you live.


I wouldn't be listening to advice from Ken W. about anything related to turning. :D He is, after all, a mere novice. On the Board stats anyway.

My last encounter with Ken cost me $1000 in chisels and other stuff and the bar keeps getting higher and higher.... :oo:

PS. Have a search around on the forum for some of Ken's work. I don't remember the thread title exactly but it was something like: "Show me yours and I'll show you mine".

started it... then I posted some pics of Ken W's stuff and it all went very quiet. :rolleyes:

A top crew of blokes here, esp. in Victoria. (We have some QLD'ers arrive too for our sessions, and they are great too. )

Jeff

Calm
5th July 2009, 08:45 PM
Yeah that is fair enough for REAL cheap sets. but if you have read my posts, the set I am talking about and is a good introductory set is HSS and holds an edge well.

I agree with carbon steel sets, but have never been talking about a carbon steel set.

Will i have taken the time to enlarge your set of tools and have a good look at them



10mm spindle gouge - useless for "normal" work too small really suited to detail work
13mm bowl gouge - would be handy to finish a bowl but not a high useage tool
22mm roughing gouge - great to "rough" down bl;anks on the spindle
18mm round nose scraper - best tool yet to get catches and scare the absolut bejesas out of you. too light to use with any overhang.
20mm diamond parting tool - good tool use a lot
25mm oval skew - another usefull tool

So IMHO that set has 3 tools that i would recommend as "needed" and the rest you could take or leave, but not high usage tools.

This is the same as most sets i have seen they just dont have 6 tools that you need - if you could puick the tools to go in the kit then i would say great idea but as that kit is you are buying 3 that you qwould rarely use.

So better to buy 5 or 6 good tools as suggested by others. singuarly and unhandled

Roughing gouge - 25mm Skew, 13mm spindle gouge, superflute bowl gouge, 25 mm scraper, parting tool

That will give enough to make s&p grinders, spindle items, bowls or even boxes (not too deep)

Cheers

KenW
5th July 2009, 08:46 PM
Yeah that is fair enough for REAL cheap sets. but if you have read my posts, the set I am talking about and is a good introductory set is HSS and holds an edge well.

I agree with carbon steel sets, but have never been talking about a carbon steel set.

Poor quality tools promote unsafe use of tools and bad habits. It is imposible to teach sharpening when tools are incorrect shape. I regularly teach beginners and the first thing I do is lend them good quality tools. It is easier to teach good turning habits than correct bad ones.
All of the people here who have been turning for years and teach beginners, have given the same advice, only you disagree.

jefferson
5th July 2009, 10:34 PM
As any of those who have visited (or met me) will know, I probably rate higher on the "tool addict" scale than most. I don't know exactly how many chisels I have right now, but by early next week the number will be over 50. It's not a brag-fest here. I can afford it - and some cannot unfortunately. :( That said, there are quite a few out there on the Board that make my collection of lathes and tools look ordinary. (Four Stubbies is an excess I would think).

I figure that if I have the best gear, then there's only one person to blame (that's you , DJ, Calm, Skew, Ern and more lately Ken W.:D:D:D:D) Not me, of course!

I've bought stacks of chisels that I will never grind down until worthless. And some rarely see use.

But I can say this: the tools that cost me most work the best.

I do a lot of work on redgum and the best chisels for the job are always my ASP 2060 Hamlets and my new HT Kryos. Plus my Ci1 and now the Ci0 for scraping work.

IMHO I would suggest that beginners:

- start with the higher-grade tools as you can afford (two good chisels, not five Chinese look-a-likes).
- learn to sharpen using jigs like the TrueGrind on the right wheels (or better still, get a Tormek)
- read all you like and watch DVDS, but get lessons first from an expert
- and then take lessons again when you think you're doing OK to get a re-fresher

My "must have" chisels (in the best steel that you can afford) are:

- a roughing gouge (P & N are my favourites)
- a 12mm or smaller spindle gouge
- a 12mm or smaller bowl gouge
- a decent parting tool
- a 19mm skew
- a Ci0 scraper for all kinds of hollowing-finishing cuts

Just my thoughts.

Three chisels alone though will get you started - a skew (for roughing, scraping, beads etc), a bowl gouge (handy for spindle work too, including coves) and a parting tool.

If you start to get addicted..... The horizon is almost too far away. :wink:

Jeff

jackliveshere
6th July 2009, 10:30 AM
It sounds like everyone has heaps of cash to throw around :U That is fine, but a lot of blokes don't.....especially when they haven't even started a hobby and don't know what it's like and whether they will be good at it. That is my point that no one is really reading....:no: I've also stated numerous times in this thread and others that I am all for good quality tools.

The difference being is how much you outlay as a brand new beginner without turning a thing and knowing what it's like and if you'll be good at it. If you have lots of disposable money, well that is fine, buy all the good quality tools you want, and if you throw the turning hobby away it won't matter as you can afford to blow the money. I can't....others can't. These introductory turning sets have a place for beginners to get them going.

You lot all gotta remember too that many of you have been turning for MANY MANY years and some are professional turners :o You lot have years of knowledge and experience, have probably used dozens if not hundreds of types, style and brands of tools and know what you like. How would someone who hasn't turned a brass razzo know what they like if they haven't tried it out? I think a lot of woodworking as a hobby is a discovery journey, you try things out and experiment as you go. You learn what works, what doesn't work, what you like and what you don't like.

Gotta a couple of questions that I would love to get some responses on from all you blokes who have been turning for ages.


when you first started turning, whether it was 5 years, 10 years or 30 years ago, what tools did you start with then?? Try to think hard to the very first time you were turning. When did you buy your first tools and what were they?
when you first started turning way back when, could you sharpen tools like a pro straight out of the box? or did it take time to learn the art?
did you get into turning as a hobby or for income?
Last one, after more recommendations for buying tools with no handles, no one has answered my original question from last week: how does a beginner turn handles for his new handle-less turning tools when he doesn't have any tools to begin with?





10mm spindle gouge - useless for "normal" work too small really suited to detail work
13mm bowl gouge - would be handy to finish a bowl but not a high useage tool
22mm roughing gouge - great to "rough" down bl;anks on the spindle
18mm round nose scraper - best tool yet to get catches and scare the absolut bejesas out of you. too light to use with any overhang.
20mm diamond parting tool - good tool use a lot
25mm oval skew - another usefull tool



Calm, thanks for taking the time to consider the set instead of just writing it off straight up. I agree with the skew & parting tool as I use them a lot. I also use the spindle gouge for basically what you said, fine detail work. The roughing gouge i use a lot too and I can get a good finish off it which requires minimal sanding. Yes the bowl gouge is a little small, but nevertheless, you CAN turn a complete bowl with it and it will get you started in bowl turning :) Bit curious about the scraper though mate....I have never had any other scrapers, so it's all I've used - I find it quite easy to use, never had a catch and does a good job when sharp.


Poor quality tools promote unsafe use of tools and bad habits. It is imposible to teach sharpening when tools are incorrect shape. I regularly teach beginners and the first thing I do is lend them good quality tools. It is easier to teach good turning habits than correct bad ones.
All of the people here who have been turning for years and teach beginners, have given the same advice, only you disagree.

Ken mate, I agree that poor quality tools promote unsafe use and lead to bad habits. Never said otherwise. Have you used this particular type of set I've been discussing Ken? I am not the only one who thinks these tools (which are manufactured and re-branded by numerous companies, not just Carbatec, I didn't even buy mine from Carbatec) are good entry level tools. I've read quite a few threads some time back, just did a quick search and here's some others:
http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=47688
http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=43992


As any of those who have visited (or met me) will know, I probably rate higher on the "tool addict" scale than most. I don't know exactly how many chisels I have right now, but by early next week the number will be over 50. It's not a brag-fest here. I can afford it - and some cannot unfortunately. :( That said, there are quite a few out there on the Board that make my collection of lathes and tools look ordinary. (Four Stubbies is an excess I would think).


But I can say this: the tools that cost me most work the best.


IMHO I would suggest that beginners:

- start with the higher-grade tools as you can afford (two good chisels, not five Chinese look-a-likes).
- learn to sharpen using jigs like the TrueGrind on the right wheels (or better still, get a Tormek)
- read all you like and watch DVDS, but get lessons first from an expert
- and then take lessons again when you think you're doing OK to get a re-fresher



Yes I'm sure that is true for most, good quality tools work the best. But as you mentioned in your first section, not everyone can afford them. Plus a Tormek still :U Mate you must be made of cash Jeff :2tsup:

Calm
6th July 2009, 11:17 AM
.....................
Gotta a couple of questions that I would love to get some responses on from all you blokes who have been turning for ages.


when you first started turning, whether it was 5 years, 10 years or 30 years ago, what tools did you start with then?? Try to think hard to the very first time you were turning. When did you buy your first tools and what were they?
when you first started turning way back when, could you sharpen tools like a pro straight out of the box? or did it take time to learn the art?
did you get into turning as a hobby or for income?
Last one, after more recommendations for buying tools with no handles, no one has answered my original question from last week: how does a beginner turn handles for his new handle-less turning tools when he doesn't have any tools to begin with?



Calm, thanks for taking the time to consider the set instead of just writing it off straight up. I agree with the skew & parting tool as I use them a lot. I also use the spindle gouge for basically what you said, fine detail work. The roughing gouge i use a lot too and I can get a good finish off it which requires minimal sanding. Yes the bowl gouge is a little small, but nevertheless, you CAN turn a complete bowl with it and it will get you started in bowl turning :) Bit curious about the scraper though mate....I have never had any other scrapers, so it's all I've used - I find it quite easy to use, never had a catch and does a good job when sharp.



Ken mate, I agree that poor quality tools promote unsafe use and lead to bad habits. Never said otherwise. Have you used this particular type of set I've been discussing Ken? I am not the only one who thinks these tools (which are manufactured and re-branded by numerous companies, not just Carbatec, I didn't even buy mine from Carbatec) are good entry level tools. I've read quite a few threads some time back, just did a quick search and here's some others:
http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=47688
http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=43992



Yes I'm sure that is true for most, good quality tools work the best. But as you mentioned in your first section, not everyone can afford them. Plus a Tormek still :U Mate you must be made of cash Jeff :2tsup:

Will
you said it yourself out of the set of 6 you only use or consider 3 of them as "use all the time" which means you bought 3 for "occasional use" the skew is a fatr better scraper than the scraper in that set.

Also to another point of yours i started with a chinese set of 'soft steel" tools - worst decision i ever made - they wouldnt hold an edge - i thought it was my technique or sharpening and was so frustrated - the stuff i was making was so "second rate" it was embarrasing - then i met Ern and he showed me his chisels and allowed me to use them (on his Stubby) and that was when i realised there are tools and there are tools.

YOU are the one not listening or reading OUR posts - you keep coming back to this cheap set when there appears to be a majority of other members stating that that is not the best way to go

YOU have your head in the sand and think your opinion is the only one that maybe right. I suggest you take a good read of the other posts and think that maybe they might know.

This forum is about people giving their opinion so what makes you think your opinion is the only one thats right, you have no idea of the qualifications/experience of other posters just the same as we have no idea of yours. Jefferson (who is the biggest self confessed tool slut out) even said in his post that he realises not everyone can afford what he buys but he suggested a list (of single tools) and still recommended good quality tools. He is a newby that is experiencing the difficulties of learning and realises how much easier it is with the correct tools.

When you are an experienced turner you maybe able to use tools not quite suited to the job but until you learn, using the wrong tools and inferior tools will not give you confidence in what you can do.

So, after a lot of thought and reading the other posts, for you and the OP i suggest the following as a starting set. Prices from CWS

25mm Skew also to be used as a scraper Skew Chisel 18x6mm Unhandled <!-- - 05-120 -->

<table> </table><table> </table> $ 69.75



Parting tool
Parting Off Tool 3x12mm Unhandled <!-- - 05-134 -->

<table> </table> $ 47.00
Roughing gouge
Roughing Gouge 25mm Unhandled <!-- - 05-115 -->

<table> </table> $ 119.85

Supaflute bowl gouge 3/8 which is actually 1/2 diameter steel
Bowl Gouge 12mm Unhandled <!-- - bowgoug12un -->

<table> </table> $ 54.45



With more thought the other suggestion i make is buy a jig to grind with at the start - that will make your tools last longer and help you get it right straight away. Frankly shatrpening freehand is only for the experts and does absolutely nothing too boost confidence in what you want to do and that iss make stuff.



This is a good starting one Tru Grind Sharpening System $189


The reason i buy tools unhandles is it si cheaper and fun to make the handles to a shape that suits you - how to make them well i have seen tehm made with a unhandled roughing gouge or even go to a fellow member and i'm sure they would help or lend tools to get you started.


That is about $ 450 and frankly if you cant afford that to "get into" a hobby you cant afford the hobby. If he decides he doesnt like the hobby these tools are all saleablw items at 50% of the new price right here on the forum.

Cheers

KenW
6th July 2009, 11:56 AM
It sounds like everyone has heaps of cash to throw around :U That is fine, but a lot of blokes don't.....especially when they haven't even started a hobby and don't know what it's like and whether they will be good at it. That is my point that no one is really reading....:no: I've also stated numerous times in this thread and others that I am all for good quality tools.

The difference being is how much you outlay as a brand new beginner without turning a thing and knowing what it's like and if you'll be good at it. If you have lots of disposable money, well that is fine, buy all the good quality tools you want, and if you throw the turning hobby away it won't matter as you can afford to blow the money. I can't....others can't. These introductory turning sets have a place for beginners to get them going.

You lot all gotta remember too that many of you have been turning for MANY MANY years and some are professional turners :o You lot have years of knowledge and experience, have probably used dozens if not hundreds of types, style and brands of tools and know what you like. How would someone who hasn't turned a brass razzo know what they like if they haven't tried it out? I think a lot of woodworking as a hobby is a discovery journey, you try things out and experiment as you go. You learn what works, what doesn't work, what you like and what you don't like.

Gotta a couple of questions that I would love to get some responses on from all you blokes who have been turning for ages.


when you first started turning, whether it was 5 years, 10 years or 30 years ago, what tools did you start with then?? Try to think hard to the very first time you were turning. When did you buy your first tools and what were they?
when you first started turning way back when, could you sharpen tools like a pro straight out of the box? or did it take time to learn the art?
did you get into turning as a hobby or for income?
Last one, after more recommendations for buying tools with no handles, no one has answered my original question from last week: how does a beginner turn handles for his new handle-less turning tools when he doesn't have any tools to begin with?


Calm, thanks for taking the time to consider the set instead of just writing it off straight up. I agree with the skew & parting tool as I use them a lot. I also use the spindle gouge for basically what you said, fine detail work. The roughing gouge i use a lot too and I can get a good finish off it which requires minimal sanding. Yes the bowl gouge is a little small, but nevertheless, you CAN turn a complete bowl with it and it will get you started in bowl turning :) Bit curious about the scraper though mate....I have never had any other scrapers, so it's all I've used - I find it quite easy to use, never had a catch and does a good job when sharp.



Ken mate, I agree that poor quality tools promote unsafe use and lead to bad habits. Never said otherwise. Have you used this particular type of set I've been discussing Ken? I am not the only one who thinks these tools (which are manufactured and re-branded by numerous companies, not just Carbatec, I didn't even buy mine from Carbatec) are good entry level tools. I've read quite a few threads some time back, just did a quick search and here's some others:
http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=47688
http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=43992



Yes I'm sure that is true for most, good quality tools work the best. But as you mentioned in your first section, not everyone can afford them. Plus a Tormek still :U Mate you must be made of cash Jeff :2tsup:

When I first started turning I bought one of those cheap sets. Like all beginners I had trouble using and sharpening the tools. I went and got lessons, and found out that the tools werer holding me back. I then threw out all but the round nose scraper, I still use this scraper.
These starter sets have gotten poorer in quality over the years as most are now made in China. As I said before, I teach beginners on a weekly basis and most show up with cheap starter tools. After one lesson they throw most of them away. Where is the economy in that?
If a beginner buys one good 12mm bowl gouge, there are many things that can de made with just this one tool. Moor than enough to see if they like the hobby.
Ken.

jackliveshere
6th July 2009, 12:08 PM
Hi Calm,

I think you are getting stuck into me for no reason when I'm just having a discussion mate :?



you said it yourself out of the set of 6 you only use or consider 3 of them as "use all the time" which means you bought 3 for "occasional use" the skew is a fatr better scraper than the scraper in that set.


I'm not sure when I said that, but in post #18 (http://www.woodworkforums.com/showpost.php?p=989230&postcount=18) I said I use all 6 regularly.



YOU are the one not listening or reading OUR posts - you keep coming back to this cheap set when there appears to be a majority of other members stating that that is not the best way to go

YOU have your head in the sand and think your opinion is the only one that maybe right. I suggest you take a good read of the other posts and think that maybe they might know.

This forum is about people giving their opinion so what makes you think your opinion is the only one thats right, you have no idea of the qualifications/experience of other posters just the same as we have no idea of yours. Jefferson (who is the biggest self confessed tool slut out) even said in his post that he realises not everyone can afford what he buys but he suggested a list (of single tools) and still recommended good quality tools. He is a newby that is experiencing the difficulties of learning and realises how much easier it is with the correct tools.


Yes I agree wholeheartedly, this forum is for discussing and giving of opinions. I have an opinion and you have an opinion and we are discussing it. I have never said once that it is wrong to go buy good quality more expensive tools have I? I have stated my reasons for my opinion, that is cost and a avenue of experiencing woodturning without outlaying a lot of money initially. I think it is a fair opinion and I know that there are others on the board who do understand it. I am the only one posting about, but hey, that's life. Since I started posting in this thread I have been the one shot down for having my opinion. That doesn't really seem like it's in the spirit of the board now does it mate?



The reason i buy tools unhandles is it si cheaper and fun to make the handles to a shape that suits you - how to make them well i have seen tehm made with a unhandled roughing gouge or even go to a fellow member and i'm sure they would help or lend tools to get you started.


Thank you for answering this question about how to make handles for tools with no handled tools. I would buy unhandled tools too for the record...again never been against the norm, just trying to understand things and have a discussion.

rsser
6th July 2009, 12:11 PM
One q that was raised: how to start turning with unhandled tools. One response somewhere was to use a bit of dowel. Think Bunnies have some pretty thick stuff. Drill a hole in the end and jam or epoxy the tang in.

Otherwise buy one handled tool (ah, but which?) and go from there.

FWIW I scored a set of Sorby carbon steel tools cheap when I started, and spent two months learning how to sharpen on a cheap GMC wet grinder. Set up a rest from an old drill stand and stood there hour after hour shaping slowly with one of Darlow's books beside me. (The trade off for money is usually time).

jackliveshere
6th July 2009, 12:13 PM
When I first started turning I bought one of those cheap sets. Like all beginners I had trouble using and sharpening the tools. I went and got lessons, and found out that the tools werer holding me back. I then threw out all but the round nose scraper, I still use this scraper.
These starter sets have gotten poorer in quality over the years as most are now made in China. As I said before, I teach beginners on a weekly basis and most show up with cheap starter tools. After one lesson they throw most of them away. Where is the economy in that?
If a beginner buys one good 12mm bowl gouge, there are many things that can de made with just this one tool. Moor than enough to see if they like the hobby.
Ken.

Hi Ken,

I actually have two sets of 'cheap' tools. One that came with the second hand lathe I bought - it's got a price tag on it from the 90's of $19.95. they are rubbish tools and I don't use them at all - basically a throw away. But I didn't buy them, they were a freebie. I understand there are sets to throw away, I do mate. The second set which I have been discussing I've had luck with. Can sharpen it fine using a homemade jig and grinder, and it does good work for me. I will upgrade in time, with the advantage of my skills being much better when I get nice new good quality tools.

RETIRED
6th July 2009, 02:17 PM
I was going to keep out of this but you raised some good points JLH that I felt compelled to reply.

Keep it impersonal people.




The difference being is how much you outlay as a brand new beginner without turning a thing and knowing what it's like and if you'll be good at it. If you have lots of disposable money, well that is fine, buy all the good quality tools you want, and if you throw the turning hobby away it won't matter as you can afford to blow the money. I can't....others can't. These introductory turning sets have a place for beginners to get them going.

You lot all gotta remember too that many of you have been turning for MANY MANY years and some are professional turners :o You lot have years of knowledge and experience, have probably used dozens if not hundreds of types, style and brands of tools and know what you like.
I agree with this statement and experiencing different tools, brands and shapes is a definite advantage.

You get to know what suits you best but there are still basic rules regarding tools and shapes that you can't get away from.

You have opened a sore point with me that if people stopped listening to the tool manufacturers and went back to the basic tools of 30 years ago their turning would in most cases improve and they would not need or want half the tools they have.

How would someone who hasn't turned a brass razzo know what they like if they haven't tried it out?

Join a club, read everything about your chosen hobby, join a club, gather with like minded people, join a club, look up everthing you can on the net, join a club, ask (as you have done here) and did I mention join a club.

The hard part is knowing whether or not the people showing you via the different methods actually know what they are talking about. I have seen some woeful and dangerous things in youtube that make my hair stand on end.

I think a lot of woodworking as a hobby is a discovery journey, you try things out and experiment as you go. You learn what works, what doesn't work, what you like and what you don't like.

You have got that right. It is the way we all learn and should grow. It is my hope that the people I have taught will become better turners than me.

Gotta a couple of questions that I would love to get some responses on from all you blokes who have been turning for ages.


when you first started turning, whether it was 5 years, 10 years or 30 years ago, what tools did you start with then?? Try to think hard to the very first time you were turning. When did you buy your first tools and what were they?

I started turning about 35 years ago using a metal lathe. Tools were carbon steel if you could get them. My first roughing gouge and spindle gouges were made from car springs. My skew chisels were made from Bohlerit tool steel which I still use for the skews.

The only books were by Frank Pain and Gordon Stokes.

Then I met the bloke in the factory next door who built boats. He was a Pom that had migrated here and bought his lathe with him. A big, beautiful green solid cast iron Wadkin verandah post lathe. He taught me the finer points.

My first dedicated wood turning lathe was a wooden bed lathe that spun timber. It worked well but not as good as "Big Henry" that I have now.


when you first started turning way back when, could you sharpen tools like a pro straight out of the box? or did it take time to learn the art?

I was lucky in the fact that as an apprentice mechanic we were required to learn how to sharpen drills and machining tools so it was no hassle to sharpen the tools but if you sre not subjected to using tools all day that a jig is almost essential to get a good edge.


did you get into turning as a hobby or for income?

I started turning as a hobby but a forced career change saw me take it up as my living.

After having rooms stacked full of bowls and other craft items and running out of relations to give to I realised that if I were to make money I had to go back to what I had learnt from my mentor and do architectural or spindle turning.


Last one, after more recommendations for buying tools with no handles, no one has answered my original question from last week: how does a beginner turn handles for his new handle-less turning tools when he doesn't have any tools to begin with?

As has been said earlier, use an unhandled tool to make the first handle and go from there.

I have used vise grips as a handle in a pinch.:D

I confess that I buy most tools with handles or knock the blade out of an old one as I am too lazy to turn my own.



Calm, thanks for taking the time to consider the set instead of just writing it off straight up. I agree with the skew & parting tool as I use them a lot. I also use the spindle gouge for basically what you said, fine detail work. The roughing gouge i use a lot too and I can get a good finish off it which requires minimal sanding. Yes the bowl gouge is a little small, but nevertheless, you CAN turn a complete bowl with it and it will get you started in bowl turning :) Bit curious about the scraper though mate....I have never had any other scrapers, so it's all I've used - I find it quite easy to use, never had a catch and does a good job when sharp.

The scrapers in those sets are usuallt too thin. They do work but if you get the chance to use a heavy one it is like getting out of a VW into a Ferrari.



Ken mate, I agree that poor quality tools promote unsafe use and lead to bad habits. Never said otherwise. Have you used this particular type of set I've been discussing Ken? I am not the only one who thinks these tools (which are manufactured and re-branded by numerous companies, not just Carbatec, I didn't even buy mine from Carbatec) are good entry level tools. I've read quite a few threads some time back, just did a quick search and here's some others:
http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=47688
http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=43992



Yes I'm sure that is true for most, good quality tools work the best. But as you mentioned in your first section, not everyone can afford them. Plus a Tormek still :U Mate you must be made of cash Jeff :2tsup:

jefferson
6th July 2009, 03:53 PM
Wiser heads will prevail here, but I'd like to share what happened with my son a few years back.

He was doing the woodworking stuff at school, Year 11 I think.

The "teacher" gave him blunt tools and hard timber to turn on a crap lathe.

He really struggled with it. So I bought him an el cheapo set of chisels that I didn't know how to sharpen and a Delta midi-lathe.

Needless to say, it didn't work out. Dan is now lost to woodturning for probably the best part of his life. His mind is elsewhere at the moment, age 21, but I'd wish the "system" had a or Ken W. there to get him going.

And yes, if I had to choose one tool, it would be a 12mm bowl gouge..... :D

Jeff

Ray153
7th July 2009, 11:19 AM
Yeah that is fair enough for REAL cheap sets. but if you have read my posts, the set I am talking about and is a good introductory set is HSS and holds an edge well.

I agree with carbon steel sets, but have never been talking about a carbon steel set.

I did read your post and still remain sceptical about the value of the set you mention. However, I have not used such a set so will take your word for its value.

One reason I elaborated so much in the post you quoted is simple. Threads such as this one are present forever and often become a valuable research thread for others. If my thoughts on the subject help someone else make a more informed decision then I think it has been a worthwhile use of my time. My post was directed more to the original post in the thread so that is one reason why it was not absolutely specific to your scenario.

In answer to other questions you posted , I first did wood turning in high school nearly 30 years ago and have no idea what sort of tools they were, but given the school and
the era, I have no doubt that they were carbon steel.

I didn't do any turning for at least another 10-15 years after that for one reason or another. When I got back into the hobby I bought P+N tools unhandled. It is a hobby to me and I have only ever given pieces away, never sold anything and I certainly have the full house to prove it!

To be honest I cannot remember how I turned the first few handles, but if I was to start over, I would do as another has suggested and just juryrig a length of large diametre dowel or curtain rod.

As for sharpening, I bumbled my way through like most, if not all others to start with and I simply fixed a length of flat board on an angle in front of the grinder to use as a tool rest. Still use it and it works for me. Did I make mistakes? Of course. Did I "waste" valuable steel? Never. If you learn something from a particular course of action then it can never be a waste or a mistake, it is only ever something that did not work out quite as well as hoped. Provided it does not result in casualties of course.

Skew ChiDAMN!!
7th July 2009, 01:24 PM
[Peers under bench.] Hello? Cubjo? It's safe to come out now.

I think.

:rolleyes:

RETIRED
7th July 2009, 01:29 PM
He is in Melb somewhere Andrew.

jefferson
7th July 2009, 04:30 PM
I got my new TTS-100 Turning Tool Setter (thanks Jim Carroll for getting the gear to me so quickly).

I will sharpen the little gouge I'm donating to the Tassie Turner, just so he knows what sharp really is! :D

Off to the shed soon to get into it!

Jeff

Ashes
7th July 2009, 10:50 PM
Jeff,
good point about sharpening.

As a beginner myself I don't think I really understood what sharp was until I got some skew lessons off a member of my club. I have lots to learn about sharpening and even more to learn about grinding to a correct and repeatable angle. Regardless of the quality of the tool, if it has a sharp edge it cuts better than a blunt one (at least for a short time anyway).

In terms of tools, I started with, and still use, some of he generic carbatec type set which seemed fine to me starting out. I then bought a couple of chisels that I probably didn't need and won't use often (never take advice from salesmen..). I'm now being much more selective and listening to the advice from the pros before making a purchase. I'm gradually replacing the useful chisels in that carbatec set. You really don't appreciate the difference in quality and performance of any tool unless you actually can directly compare and use them side by side.

One thing I recon I've figured out though...a pro can use any tool well, a beginner who isn't taking lessons and practicing heaps needs plenty of luck on their side to use even the best quality tools well:doh:

Skew ChiDAMN!!
7th July 2009, 11:00 PM
Jeff,
good point about sharpening.

As a beginner myself I don't think I really understood what sharp was until I got some skew lessons off a member of my club.

:yes:

One thing that I think hasn't been stressed enough - if at all - when we tell new turner's "buy this chisel" or "buy that chisel" is... whatever chisel they buy, whether top o' the line HSS or a cheap chaiwanese set, it will be blunt and will need sharpening before they use it for the first time.

Many actually need a fair bit of attention before they're truly usable... such as honing/polishing the flute.

I wonder how many just "buy & try?" (I know I did... :B)

jefferson
8th July 2009, 03:50 PM
Andy,

I don't know whether Cubjo is still in hiding or not.

I tried to sharpen the gouge I promised him on the Tormek - no good though, as it developed a snout at the point. It must be the flute shape, as the P & N works fine on exactly the same setting.

I re-did the grind on the True-Grind and polished the flute on the Tormek. I think it's sharp enough. :2tsup:

Anyway, it's in the post and hopefully off to a good Forum member's home.

Jeff

Cubjo
8th July 2009, 11:48 PM
Hey all

I am back from Sunny Melbourne....got back in a few hours ago. Really loves it there. The kids had heaps of fun...We spent heaps of money but I think I have earnt enough brownie points to buy myself a lathe tomorrow :D

I have just finished reading through the discussion here and seems I have started a little debate. Firstly I understand exactly where JLH is coming from. This is a new hobby for me and while I am excited I am also a little nervous of laying out this kind of money on something which will be a passing fad for me in 6 months. I have decided to take on the advice of other members (as well as generous offers) and will be getting some P&N tools when I buy my lathe. I will also be hopefully be getting the Tru-Grind Sharpening system.

I would love to come on over and do grab an impromptu lessons with ya (I would even bring the tea) but alas I was only in Melbourne for 4 days and had no net access so didnt see this offer till I was back in Tassie.

Anyhow I am off to bed to make sure the browny points dont diminish and hope to chat soon.

Thanks to all
Rob

jefferson
9th July 2009, 12:41 AM
Rob,

I urge you to take up on his offer of tuition. He's a great teacher and is very patient. (Don't watch him turn though, he's too/ very aggressive with the chisels for novices. Watch the tea breaks too).

As others have said elsewhere, join a club. Buy some books and DVDs (I have some you can borrow).

Or better still, develop some close friendships with the Victorian Chapter on the Board. Ern, Calm, DJ (now DJ's Wood), (the Axe Wielder) and Ken W. And buy from someone who won't do you wrong - thanks Jim C., great service and better advice.

I have a couple of spare chisels here too Rob that I can send over. Let me know how you're going. If you give the game away, just send them back. PS Don't buy any scrapers, I have a few spare.)

If you have any problems, just get onto the Board. Help is not far away.

PPS Start on something soft. Turn 20 or 30 honey dippers and another 30 little 3 by 5 (75mm by 100mm) bowls and then start asking questions.....

PPPS Don't forget dust control. Get a mask if nothing else.

You have a journey ahead of you that I hope will change your life for the better.

Jeff