Thread: How to make a carving tool from a pocket knife

Great instructional post whittlin
the only thing I would add is maybe for new carvers to consider a pocket knife with locking blades.

I guess there are a few points I could make here... Firstly, to those with 'old' pocket knives who want to try this: Make sure your knife is in reasonable shape to start with. Some old knives have had a real 'hammering' in their past lives and are about past their useful life. Wobbly and warn blades are probably not the best condition to start a new carving application.

Secondly, I have no idea what the steel is in your 'old' knife. It may be good for this application... it may not. There are a plethora of knives out there that are made with the 'less than intellectually gifted' individual in mind who likes to use his/her knife for opening cans, tightening screws, digging weeds and other assorted activities definitely not in the normal sphere of a pocketknife. These knives use a steel much tougher than the sort one needs for carving. Unfortunately it is also much softer so it won't hold an edge very well. No way to know until you try it.

Thirdly, (and thank you Underfoot for bringing it up) folding knives have the potential to snap shut on your fingers if not used correctly. This isn't difficult to avoid... you just need to ensure the pressure on the knife is applied in such a way as to keep the blade open. It is one of the first things I cover in my classes on this technique. If anyone wants to try carving with a folding knife and is worried about this, it might pay to take a basic lesson in this technique first. Whittling is potentially dangerous full stop. The only thing that keeps one safe is one's adherence to the specific techniques designed to minimize the risk to the hand that is holding the work. This is true regardless of whether or not the blade locks. On the other hand, most of what we take for granted in life is also potentially dangerous, like driving automobiles. I'm not trying to downplay the risks. Be aware of them and take what ever steps you feel are appropriate to minimize them.

The idea of locking blades is good in principle, but there are almost no manufactures of multi-bladed knives that make more than one blade lockable. If you then have to buy three knives to get 3 locking blades, you are back to where you started and might just as well stay with the wooden handled, single-bladed sort.

Any comment on the (genuine) Swiss army knife blades? (type of steel, quality of construction, ...)

Thanks for a great article.

Paul McGee

Hi Paul,

Thanks... glad you liked it. Hope its helpful.

My very first whittling knife was a Swiss Army (Victorinox) with two cutting blades (and a few 'extras'). I evenually stopped using it because I was wearing it out and it had sentimental value for me. I don't know the steel 'formula' name but it behaves similar to 440c... a very acceptable formula for whittling. You'll need to modify the smaller pen blade for detail work. You don't usually have a 3rd cutting blade as an option but if this is your first go its a good place to start.

FYI There is also an 'Original' Swiss Army knife made by 'Wagner' which is every bit as good as the Victorinox version. Either one work fine.

it is great tutorial, one day i will try, but for now i'll be purchasing one of your modified pocket knives. Cant wait. HAHA

G'day Whittling, been away and just found your post.
Great work on the tutorial, I have really enjoyed the read and the way you have explained things.

Very well explained and illustrated, colored with the virtue of hindsight and experience.
Now, if I only needed such a knife. . . . . . .

Thanks Whittling, your a mine of information, I looked back at your golf ball carving posts and fancy having a crack, do you use one of these knives for that as well?

Originally Posted by Robthechisel

Thanks Whittling, your a mine of information, I looked back at your golf ball carving posts and fancy having a crack, do you use one of these knives for that as well?

Hi Rob, Yeah mate. I mostly use a modified 3-bladed stockman for this project. If they are handy I like to use an 11/10 gouge to create the hollows into which the eyes are carved. I also use a 12/6 Vtool for the laugh lines around the eyes and mouth and for hair detail. This last is not as neccessary as one can use a blade to create these lines.... it just takes longer.