Thread: The *&%$@ dog

I'd use a 12mm #12 for the "valleys" and round off with a #3 (I'm not sure if that's what you meant by the question)
I'd also give the dog a bit of kickisanus!!

yes that is what i meant
I have replaced the "CHEWED" with new silky oak and have kind of worked out what to i think
Could you give a more detailed guidance please

The first thing you need to do is reproduce the shoulder and basic profile. This is usually done on a moulder but most of us don't have one at home so a router is the best we can do. You might need to use a large "beading bit" to get as near as you can to the original profile and hand work it to match.
If you can wait a week, I will try to carve what you are trying to do and do a series of photographs so you can follow the process.
I hope you can get the two carving chisels I mentioned.

you get the photos and i will get the chisels
any excuse buy tools
thank you

Hi Ninpoman
Here’s how I do it – I will have to load this in a few goes so that I can get the pics through. I must say from the start that I am very much an amateur and would stand corrected by any of the professionals on the forum. I have shown a “rope edge” and couldn’t tell from your pics whether it was a rope. The end looked as if it had some flat sections. Anyway, the principles will be the same.
I have used a “rounding over” router bit to get the profile and 12mm #12 and 20mm #3 Pfiell chisels to do the carving. Don’t use a mallet – hand pressure is enough. Don’t try to do all the cut at once, especially when rounding off with the #3 – you need to take small shavings off, much the same as using a plane. My example is a scrap piece of old cedar I had lying around so I haven’t sanded it (too lazy?)
Step 1: Measure the distance between the “valleys” and mark this distance on the profile. Draw in the curve of the valleys.

Step 2: Using the #12, cut the valleys. Start at the top with the upper edge of the chisel perpendicular to the top of the cupboard. This will give you a square shoulder. As you make the curve you can flatten out the chisel so that it takes a V cut. (Note: often the end valley is finished with a square shoulder rather than being rounded like the rest)

Step 3: Using the #3, concave side against the wood, pare the rope edge from the top towards the bottom as shown in the pics. Be careful not to take off too much; it is easy to take more off but impossible to replace it. END GRAIN: take care as you need to go in the direction that makes the chisel slice rather than dig into the fibres.

Step 4: with the #3, curve the other side of the rope. Be careful with grain direction – you will have to carve from the bottom towards the top. (Once again, the end grain ones are a bit tricky.)
I hope this all helps