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8th September 2016, 07:15 AM #46SENIOR MEMBER
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Well the case knife was recommended for small fine work , I don't even have a bandsaw nowadays so I do appriciate a big handle for the initial power cuts but the "Case" can handle 2" square rock hard wood no problem.
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A word about safety & technique
The thing about whittling is to take two small chips rather than one big one - that way you stay in control - the razor sharp thin blade does not require a load of pushing force & is not likely to slip & cut flesh !
When actually watching an experienced whittler (U-tube) you will notice that any force applied in making a cut is still in control the force comes from a thumb or finger pushing on the back of a blade or from the holding hand clenching , if it does suddenly slip away - where will that blade go ? if it's into flesh , then you are doing it wrong !
Knife carving is not fast , it is quiet & meditative , if you find your self stuggling & getting frustrated it is time to find a new approach to that cut, I once read somewhere that when you do cut yourself , when you look back at what happened , you KNEW really that that was a dangerous moment just before the cut happened - watch out for that moment - there would have been a compltely safe other type of cut to use.
Curved blades take a lot of power out of the equation, by drawing the knife towards you (or away ) the slicing motion motion allows for easier ,more accurate & cleaner cutting.
Its hard to tell you how to hold a knife to carve wood , there are many variations but the one you illustrate is rarely used , most of all in whittling you have TWO hands & the one which holds the piece is as important as the one that holds the knife.
The wood holding hand's thumb may push on the back of the blade at the same time, both hands may be touching firmly to limit unwanted movement & slips.
By far the most common cut is when you are working towards your thumb (like when peeling potatoes) by clenching your fist - Your thumb is NOT an effective stop for your razor sharp knife,instead use the tightly curled ends of the knife gripping fingers to limit the amout of travel of the blade - Simple ! but there is an industry set up making thick leather thumb pads being promoted as essential equipment.
For a while stick to soft hardwoods like Basswood & Lime, your learning will progress much faster & smoother by doing so.
Most of all it should not feel like a battle or struggle , take small chips & in the beginning , think carefully about how to approach the cut you intend to make ,where will it slip to ? Is it controlled ? Do you feel nervous about making it ? STOP ! find a safe alternative way of cutting.
Soon enough all this will become automatic & rarely thought about but it is the way ahead when beginning.
If a cut doesn't feel like the next relaxed cut in the ever deepening whittling session & tension arises you are about to struggle & cut yourself.
Mike
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8th September 2016, 09:26 AM #47
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8th September 2016, 10:04 AM #48Senior Member
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Thanks for all the extra advice. I will certainly take it into consideration. I'd just like to point out that those pics were not of me holding the knife like I was really cutting into wood. I was showing you where my index finger would be positioned if I were going to use it that way.
Taking a pic at the same time as gripping the knife ready to actually cut isn't practical or realistic. It does really clarify anything.
I also mentioned that the knife I would choose and the way I grip it are going to depend on many variables and that would be chosen at the time I'm actually working. Unfortunately even if I could have taken a picture of myself carving it would have at least been more fair if I actually had a project I'm working on but I'm not there yet.
Once I finish these 2 projects I'm working on I'll decide what to carve in some basswood and cut it out on the bandsaw. I'm needing to make a few Christmas ornaments and have a good idea what I'm going to make and from what wood. One idea I'm very excited about because I think it's going to look very cool and unique.
I'm not sure if I'll show them or not. It depends how they look.
Note: Yes it would be better if I cut the NAILS but I'm LOST without them. They are by far my most useful tools.
Thanks for the safety tips also. I will keep them in mind while I'm carving.
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8th September 2016, 11:31 AM #49New Member
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I would suggest what I like, and that is Flexcut KD14
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9th September 2016, 01:13 AM #50Senior Member
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