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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Oberon, NSW
    Age
    64
    Posts
    13,366

    Default Been hacking at it for years and...

    I'm no carver, but I do fiddle with the occasional piece when I've some free time.

    One piece I've been working on for nearly 25 years is an owl sculpted/carved from a block of 100yo fiddle-backed Tas. Blackwood. This is a very special piece of wood, having been handed down 2 generations to get to me and to call it fiddle-backed is like calling Mt. Everest a hill.

    So why is it taking me so long? Well, apart from not wanting to screw it up, this piece is hard. Hard enough to take the edge off a chisel within a couple of strokes, hard enough to melt a burr in a Dremel. And with the extreme fiddle-back it's almost impossible to not have the tool deflect along the grain.

    Thus far it's all been rasp and file and a very slow job at that: a job that keeps getting put back into the "too hard basket" but that I can't prevent myself from coming back to every so often. (It's the tooth cavity of my shed. )

    So now I'm wondering... what if I tried charring areas with, say, a pyrography tool and then scraped the char away?

    I'll give it a go, but I was wondering whether anyone else has tried this or if someone can see potential pitfalls that I'm missing?
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    queensland
    Age
    77
    Posts
    1,069

    Default

    Skew, I would try a rubber backed , sanding disc on the angle grinder. The angle grinder does not worry about what type of grain that it is working on.

    Terry

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    nth coast nsw
    Posts
    1,557

    Default

    Skew, never heard of the char and scrape method before,
    I'd be experimenting on a bit scrap before I set the family heirloom ablaze,
    I'll go with schaf on the abrasive on the angle grinder (36 grit if it's a single speed)
    it's dusty and it'll still burn a bit on the end grain but it'll disregard all that pesky fiddle,
    If you really want to hook in, try one of the tungsten tipped discs on a grinder, (arbortech or rotary chisel etc)
    BTW where's the pics????

    what if the hokey pokey is really what it's all about?

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Towradgi
    Posts
    4,839

    Default

    Pat
    Work is a necessary evil to be avoided. Mark Twain

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    2,794

    Default

    Skew, after playing around for a while with soft wood my dad refused to carve anything but red ironbark. And to call that hard is like calling Mt. Everest a hill. From what I could see, the answer is shorter bevel and bang hard and slow, with a lot of patience and sanding. The blades do not need to be razor sharp. FWIW.

    The pic shows an example, the wax has worn off and would need refreshing.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Oberon, NSW
    Age
    64
    Posts
    13,366

    Default

    Thanks fellas. Another excuse to buy a new tool.

    No pix, due to our recent move and lack of a shed; I know where it is but will need to spend quite some time to dig it out. Although I've obviously been thinking of doing just that. Mebbe when I make my next attempt, provided I don't embarrass myself too badly.
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

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