Thread: English Oak timber

Ok I finally got this timber slabbed. I had a quote of $300 first up but decided if I was going to lose most of it then it wasn't worth it. I found another guy who quoted me $70. I thought this was worth the risk and I've just unloaded it.

As suggested by Al the cracking has resulted in some badly split slabs but many have come out OK.

Below are the cracked ones.

HH.

Here's the stack of good ones I ended up with for $70.

HH.

Some of the good boards have small 1/2" to 1" cracks at the ends should I cut across the boards to remove these and re-paint the ends?

Any advice on how to salvage bits of the split boards also very welcome.

HH.

FYI, In another thread.

Originally Posted by Exador

Sorry HH, not much to be done as far as i can see. The oaks are a PITA at the best of times from what i can gather. The jap oak I've got was a cranky mongrel except for the bits that were cut on the quarter. I'd just coat them in something like dimension 4 from Intergrain and hope that slows down the loss of moisture enough to let them dry without falling to bits. Good luck!

HH.

How are the blue plastic boxes supported on the wall??

For $70 I'd say you have a great result.

Regarding the ones already splitting, I'd saw the long boards in half lengthways to releive the stresses causing the splitting, then coat the ends as everyone says. Looks to me that you'll only lose 10% if you're clever about it. Don't under estimate the forces trapped in the wood. I've had green boards literally 'twang' as they pass the TS splitter and open up 25-50mm. Particularly if the tree had a lean, or they're branches.

Those of us with Studleys reject timber have become expert in this sort of salvage. You may not get table top type slabs, but judging from the piccies, you should get a fair few 100-150 wide boards.

PS Would you mind PM'ing me the details of your slabber for future reference?

Originally Posted by les88

How are the blue plastic boxes supported on the wall??

They're just cheap ones from Bunnies. They come with a plastic strip that you fix to the wall. I've used pre-drilled holes into brick with a rawpug and screw. The boxes then clip / slide onto the strip so they can be easily removed and replaced.

HH.

Originally Posted by Bodgy

For $70 I'd say you have a great result.

That's what I reckon...it was worth the gamble.

Originally Posted by Bodgy

Regarding the ones already splitting, I'd saw the long boards in half lengthways to releive the stresses causing the splitting, then coat the ends as everyone says. Looks to me that you'll only lose 10% if you're clever about it. Don't under estimate the forces trapped in the wood. I've had green boards literally 'twang' as they pass the TS splitter and open up 25-50mm. Particularly if the tree had a lean, or they're branches.

I was wondering whether to saw them or just continue the split naturally using a wood splitter. Do you reckon I should cut the last inch off of the better boards where splitting is minor? They were branches off of the main trunk which might cause further splitting.

Originally Posted by Bodgy

PS Would you mind PM'ing me the details of your slabber for future reference?

I was put into contact with the guy by the FIL, will PM you his location then if you're interested in using him I'll get his number for you.

HH.

Originally Posted by HappyHammer

I was wondering whether to saw them or just continue the split naturally using a wood splitter. Do you reckon I should cut the last inch off of the better boards where splitting is minor? They were branches off of the main trunk which might cause further splitting.

I use a splitter to crack open slabs that have split more than a quarter of the lengths, certainly makes them easier to move around and stack.

Wouldn't bother cutting last inch off, it will just split again as you're exposing new endgrain to loose moisture quicker. Just keep the ends sealed. Wouldn't hurt to re-coat the ends again, cause the endgrain does open and close as it's drying so another coat everynow and then doesn't hurt.

Thanks DJ I'll do that today.

HH.

HH,
I have been following this thread with interest because I had NFI about what to do if offered apparently great timber.
I suspect you did not have much more idea than me, but had an idea where it should have lead!! I have already learned a lot.
Let us all share with where this may ultimately lead.
Regards,
CJ

You're quite right CJ I had NFI either but thought I'd take a punt. It's been a great learning experience and I have made some useful contacts. For a total outlay of $70 the experience alone has been well worth it, if I manage to get some timber out of it that will be a bonus. I'll post more as time goes by and the timber dries.....

HH.

Any chance I could aquire an (about) 40mm x 70" piece. Oak makes good bows.

Please (puppy dog eyes)

Tarebel has the tree been cut yet ,as I am interested in the logs.
Morris