Thread: Do I really need a 15 AMP plug

Get yourself a 15amp circuit and plug. That way no problems.

It looks like they might have been a bit sloppy with the cutting and pasting from larger machines on the website.

Originally Posted by BobL

It looks like they might have been a bit sloppy with the cutting and pasting from larger machines on the website.

Thanks for the reply Bob.

I actually eyeballed the machine and it does actually have a 15A plug end

Originally Posted by Damienol

i also have the Hafco Dust extractor which also has a 2hp motor and only a 10amp plug.


Anyone see any major flaws in my logic?

Hi again Damienol,

I noticed that too on H&F website when I was looking at that saw on your behalf for another post. I almost mentioned in my reply that I did not think it needed a 15 amp plug as it is only 2hp motor and single phase.

I would be cautious, however, of running the 2hp saw and the 2hp dusty off the same circuit. Do not under any circumstances start them both on the same 10 amp circuit at the same time as start-up current is much higher than running current. Use common sense, if the circuit breaker trips more than once, try accessing another circuit for each machine even if it means running an extention lead from another circuit in the house.

In any case, if you follow the following advice from BobL in another thread, you cant go wrong

Originally Posted by BobL

The 30A circuit breaker (CB) will be either a Stove/Oven or Aircon or HWS.
The 15A CBs protect the standard 10 A outlets inside the house, (usually 20 or 25 A CBs are used to protect 15A outlets and standard installation is one outlet per breaker).
The 15A designation is nominal continuous value but it can handle slightly higher currents for a brief period.

FIRST THE DISCLAIMER ** If you are not confident of doing the following call in a sparky to tell you what is going on **

Since there is no CBB in the shed and you cannot identify a specific shed CB in the house CBB, you need to determine which of those CBs in the house CBB, controls the shed.
Do this by connecting an appliance (something like a desk lamp is the safest thing to use) to an outlet in the shed and turning it on and then turning the House CBs of-on systematically. Then you need to work out if that CB is for the shed alone, or if it connected to one of the house circuits by testing for power using the desk lamp on all the house outlets. If none of the house circuits are affected then that CB is for the shed alone.

If that CB is connected to one of the house circuits then you will need to check what appliances are running on the circuit. if they are all small appliances like power adapters then you can pretty much ignore these. However if they are high current continuous devices appliances like dryers or air conditioners then you need to take these into account

Assuming that you can identify a 15A CB that is dedicated to the shed then . . . .
If the Ledacraft is a 1.5HP that means it will draw ~4A free running and ~6A under working load.
This pretty much restricts you to a 2HP (~6A) since a 3HP draws about 10 A which when added to the saw will send you over the 15A limit .
A 3HP unit requires a 15A GPO and a dedicated 20-25A CB because the start up currents can be much higher than 15A which will trip a 15A CB.

If the line to the shed is part of one of the house circuits then the currents drawn by any large appliances in the house that use the same circuit should be included in the calculation.

The other thing to note is that it is not just a question of changing the CBs in the house CBB. The other limit to total current is the wire diameter.
The line running to the shed can probably only cope with a continuous max of 10 A so swapping the 15A CB on that circuit for a 20A could cause overheating on that line and lead to a fire.

Either way it seems if you want to run a 3 HP or greater DC you would need to upgrade your connection to the shed.

Typically, I like pushing the limits. However, in this case, if it came with a 15 AMP plug and was electrically approved with it - do not alter it. To do so will definitely void your insurance.

As an aside, you could contact the electrical approval authority, to verify what rating of plug and lead can be used with the bandsaw on the approval certificate. If it was approved with an alternate 10 AMP plug, then if you wished, change it.

Originally Posted by doug3030

Hi again Damienol,

even if it means running an extention lead from another circuit in the house.

Running an extension lead from another circuit in the house will probably mean a drop in voltage and will lead to the premature death of whatever is plugged in.

Start Amps are often quoted as 3 to 5 times the run Amps, not accurate but a good guide, possibly 30 Amps on that circuit. The saw manufacturer or reseller should be able to answer why it has a 15 Amp plug. However it is generally 10 Amp plug on 2 hp and 15 Amp on 3 hp. If all else fails call a sparky for a quote on a 15Amp circuit, quotes are free and may come with a solution.

Thanks Doug

I have already experienced a tripped circuit when firing up my shopvac while the Dusty was booting up. Timing is key.

The man cave is wired with 4mm 2CE so significantly larger then normal house wiring so no probs there with overheating. The old man is a sparky so might ask him if it worth changing the CB

The old man has also suggested that if worst comes to fruition he can installed a 15Amp GPO in the CB box and I will just have to run an extension lead to the bandsaw every time I need to use it. Not ideal however significantly more palatable then forking out $1000 plus to run another circuit to the man cave.

Thanks for your response Wrongwayfirst

Re the extension lead comment, I have 250v to the house so any drop in voltage incurred through the use of an extension lead should be palatable

Originally Posted by Damienol

Thanks for your response Wrongwayfirst

Re the extension lead comment, I have 250v to the house so any drop in voltage incurred through the use of an extension lead should be palatable

And I am sure that "the old man" will ensure that you are using a properly approved 15 amp lead and hopefully it will be no longer than 30 metres so all would be good.

A shed without a 15amp socket is not a real shed.

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Originally Posted by rustynail

A shed without a 15amp socket is not a real shed.

Still sticking with the line rustynail?

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Originally Posted by Damienol

Thanks for your response Wrongwayfirst

Re the extension lead comment, I have 250v to the house so any drop in voltage incurred through the use of an extension lead should be palatable

Yikes 250V - have you actually measured it?
We routinely get 244-245 but don recall seeing a 250 since the 1980s around here.
A rumour I heard was the state supplier recently cranked up the voltage to put back pressure on the home photovoltaic systems?

Originally Posted by BobL

Yikes 250V - have you actually measured it?
We routinely get 244-245 but don recall seeing a 250 since the 1980s around here.
A rumour I heard was the state supplier recently cranked up the voltage to put back pressure on the home photovoltaic systems?

Can you please explain a bit more about this,thanks

Back pressure I mean??