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16th July 2019, 12:36 PM #1
Can I use 18mm "Pallet Grade" Ply for this torsion style bed base?
Can I use 18mm "Pallet Grade" Ply for this torsion style bed base?
Torsion Bed Base.jpg
Hardwood Pallet Grade Plywood 2440 x 1220 x 18mm | eBayThanks,
Barry G. Sumpter
May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge
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16th July 2019, 01:14 PM #2GOLD MEMBER
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Your mattress needs open air to breath. As a guide, you shouldn't cover more than half the area on the underside of a mattress. At the same time, a mattress needs to be supported for about half the area. That's why slats are often used.
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16th July 2019, 01:40 PM #3
Thanks for the reply.
I plan on using this on the top of the base:
LONSET Slatted bed base - Full/Double - IKEA
Thanks,
Barry G. Sumpter
May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge
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16th July 2019, 01:46 PM #4GOLD MEMBER
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16th July 2019, 01:48 PM #5
It was the structural strength of pallet grade.
But am convinced all will be well with the torsion box design.
I was happy with my previous supplier but they don't sell my ply anymore.
It wouldn't have been structural grade for the price I was paying.
I've used it for all my work shop fit outs without issue.
The face looks OK.
If not, we can paint, stain, bleach or face it with something else.Thanks,
Barry G. Sumpter
May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge
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16th July 2019, 05:33 PM #6
IMG_3715.jpg IMG_3716.jpg IMG_3717.jpg 58494585951__85489F5A-50A6-484E-9CDD-EF72B2CD1914.jpg
Yeah, Nup!
Nothing wrong with these!Thanks,
Barry G. Sumpter
May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge
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16th July 2019, 08:09 PM #7
Obviously there is pallet grade and stuff actually used in pallets. I reused some stuff from a deconstructed pallet awhile ago and it makes that lot look high structural, good 2 face furniture grade.
Franklin
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16th July 2019, 10:39 PM #8SENIOR MEMBER
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Very good point as damp will get trapped and cause mould. You could cut the ply into strips though, which would be fine.
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Very good point as damp will get trapped and cause mould. You could cut the ply into strips though, which would be fine.
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17th July 2019, 01:37 PM #9
My reading of the bed layout drawing is that it is open rather than sheeted on the bottom, but I may be wrong.
Even if I have misinterpreted the drawing, I doubt whether the overall design would qualify as a torsion box as the storage drawer openings in the end and sides reduce the rigidity of those members significantly, and the internal gridwork is fairly sparce. However as a structural unit to support the base you linked to, plus mattress and a couple of bodies, I believe it should be adequate. I would advise that you personally check the plywood prior to purchase, but the additional pics that you added suggest that you may have done this. From the ebay listing the quote the material as being popular core with hardwood facing, which I suspect is an officeworkers attempt at 'poplar core'. The images in the listing give the impression that the material may be void free, but many plywoods these days have voids even though the carry grades that don't allow for voids, such as 'Marine ply".
Personally, I would add a batten along each side of the central divider to give you something to attach the top sheets to, I would not like to butt two loaded sheet edges side by side on a single 18mm wide sheet edge.
I would also be concerned about the overall weight of the unit as regards to getting it into the bedroom as a complete assembly through potentially tight access situations. Obviously you can be more aware of the access situation than I am, but having dealt with similar structures in the past and getting them into and out of bedrooms through narrow passages with limited room to swing in the passage or the bedroom, I can attest that a knock down bed frame is easier to handle in tight spaces.
Ventilation between the base and mattress is being handled by the slat system you plan to use, but I suggest that you try and raise the main frame of the floor a small amount to ventilate under the base as well, particularly if it will be mounted on a concrete slab floor. We started with a platform base on a concrete slab in our first house and in the first winter the inside of the platform became covered in mould and mildew. It was subsequently cleaned with bleach and bondcreted, but also had a number of 2in holes cut into each surface with a holesaw to allow it to breath. We also bondcreted the floor to ensure that it was well sealed, and had no further issues for the 20 or so years that we used the platform. But I suspect a modest air gap under the the platform would be more acceptable than 20 2in holes around the edges and another 20 on the platform.I used to be an engineer, I'm not an engineer any more, but on the really good days I can remember when I was.
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17th July 2019, 01:41 PM #10
My reading of the bed layout drawing is that it is open rather than sheeted on the bottom, but I may be wrong.
Even if I have misinterpreted the drawing, I doubt whether the overall design would qualify as a torsion box as the storage drawer openings in the end and sides reduce the rigidity of those members significantly, and the internal gridwork is fairly sparce. However as a structural unit to support the base you linked to, plus mattress and a couple of bodies, I believe it should be adequate.
I would advise that you personally check the plywood prior to purchase, but the additional pics that you added suggest that you may have done this. From the ebay listing the quote the material as being popular core with hardwood facing, which I suspect is an officeworkers attempt at 'poplar core'. The images in the listing give the impression that the material may be void free, but many plywoods these days have voids even though the carry grades that don't allow for voids, such as 'Marine ply".
Personally, I would add a batten along each side of the central divider to give you something to attach the top sheets to, I would not like to butt two loaded sheet edges side by side on a single 18mm wide sheet edge.
I would also be concerned about the overall weight of the unit as regards to getting it into the bedroom as a complete assembly through potentially tight access situations. Obviously you can be more aware of the access situation than I am, but having dealt with similar structures in the past and getting them into and out of bedrooms through narrow passages with limited room to swing in the passage or the bedroom, I can attest that a knock down bed frame is easier to handle in tight spaces.
Ventilation between the base and mattress is being handled by the slat system you plan to use, but I suggest that you try and raise the main frame of the floor a small amount to ventilate under the base as well, particularly if it will be mounted on a concrete slab floor. We started with a platform base on a concrete slab in our first house and in the first winter the inside of the platform became covered in mould and mildew. It was subsequently cleaned with bleach and bondcreted to seal it, but also had a number of 2in holes cut into each surface with a holesaw to allow it to breath. We also bondcreted the floor to ensure that it was well sealed, and had no further issues for the 20 or so years that we used the platform. But I suspect a modest air gap under the the platform would be more acceptable than 20 2in holes around the edges and another 20 on the platform.I used to be an engineer, I'm not an engineer any more, but on the really good days I can remember when I was.
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20th July 2019, 05:17 PM #11
Any suggestions other than using a 1/4" roundover bit to soften the sharp edges?
Thanks,
Barry G. Sumpter
May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge
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21st July 2019, 11:13 AM #12GOLD MEMBER
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A plane followed by 120/180 sandpaper - the way it would have been done before routers.
Tom
"It's good enough" is low aim
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21st July 2019, 01:50 PM #13
Well, I don't have a 1/4" so used a recently purchased 1/8".
With the makita trim router.
Makes quick work.
Looks really nice.
went right to 240 on the clean up.
Is that 120 or 180 sandpaper or is it 120 then 180 sandpaper?Thanks,
Barry G. Sumpter
May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge
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21st July 2019, 02:50 PM #14GOLD MEMBER
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21st July 2019, 07:07 PM #15
When using sandpaper, start at the lowest number and work through to the higher number.
Whether you start at 120 or 180 will depend on the condition at start, the desired finish and also your stamina.
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