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  1. #1
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    Default 2400 Long Circular Saw Guide

    I want to make a 2400 long circular saw guide for ripping some 12mm thick pine ply.

    I have some 4mm ply to use as the base of the guide, and I was hoping to use an offcut from my 12mm stock for the actual guide that the saw base presses against.

    My question is how wide should the 12mm ply strip be without losing it's straightness before fixing it to the 4mm ply base sheet (I'll be ripping it off one stock edge of a 2400 x 1200 sheet)?

    According to my cutting list, I can rip around 90mm maximum off one of my 12mm sheets to use for my 2400 guide.

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  3. #2
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    Cliff.
    If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.

  4. #3
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    Can not comment on how wide it should be but I do have a thought on something that you can try and that would be to double up on the thickness if there is flex(bowing) in the piece.

    I expect that you will be gluing the 12mm to the 4mm base so that should provide some level of strength.

  5. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cliff Rogers View Post
    Hi Cliff

    That looks great.
    What sort of glue is GoldFlex?
    Obviously you need something that will adhere (permanently) to both the timber and the aluminium.

  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Christos View Post
    Can not comment on how wide it should be but I do have a thought on something that you can try and that would be to double up on the thickness if there is flex(bowing) in the piece.

    I expect that you will be gluing the 12mm to the 4mm base so that should provide some level of strength.
    Hi.
    What I am worried about is when I rip a strip off the side of the ply sheet, will the factory straight edge stay perfectly straight. So that when I glue it to the thin board, I don't have to try and pull it into line.
    I suppose I could flick a chalk line on the thin board to check the strip of 12mm play (or Cliff's aluminium) before I glue the strip to the board.

  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nordo View Post
    ....What I am worried about is when I rip a strip off the side of the ply sheet, will the factory straight edge stay perfectly straight. So that when I glue it to the thin board, I don't have to try and pull it into line......

    I am only thinking out loud so not sure if this will work out or just a lot of mucking about.

    Could try gluing the 4mm to the board before ripping out the strip from the 12mm. As mention snap one chalk line so the 4mm lines up for gluing and then one to rip the 12mm and 4mm from the sheet. Then you can true up the edge of the 4mm with the guide.

  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nordo View Post
    Hi Cliff

    That looks great.
    What sort of glue is GoldFlex?
    Obviously you need something that will adhere (permanently) to both the timber and the aluminium.
    It is the Bostik version of Sikaflex.
    Better than straight silicon & heaps better than liquid nails, cheaper than Sikaflex but I reckon Sikaflex is better.
    Cliff.
    If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.

  9. #8
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    Build it like this guy http://youtu.be/ZtlxOQrXhEo. I would use my laser set square, or a chalk line instead of a combination square to mark off 4.5" to make sure the marked line is straight.

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by justonething View Post
    Build it like this guy http://youtu.be/ZtlxOQrXhEo. I would use my laser set square, or a chalk line instead of a combination square to mark off 4.5" to make sure the marked line is straight.
    You're right.

    I think the way I will go will be to rip a strip off my 12mm ply, as wide as I can get away with (approx 90mm).
    Then on my 4mm base ply, flick a chalk line where I want the straight edge fence to be.
    When I am gluing and clamping my 12mm strip down to the 4mm base, I can use the chalk line to check my straight edge.

    Because I am using 4mm for my base sheet, I can't screw the two pieces together - like in the video.
    If I screw from underneath, I can't check my straightness with the chalk line.
    Although I could screw them together incorporating a backing sheet. Then remove the screws once the glue has dried (thinking out loud ).

  11. #10
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    I think you'll have to use a backing sheet if you're using 4mm thick ply and drive screws to hold the fence down temporarily. Then you can flip it over and screw it permanently from the underside I guess.
    Honestly, why do want to use 4mm. it seems too flimsy and might not hold the edge well.

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by justonething View Post
    I think you'll have to use a backing sheet if you're using 4mm thick ply and drive screws to hold the fence down temporarily. Then you can flip it over and screw it permanently from the underside I guess.
    Honestly, why do want to use 4mm. it seems too flimsy and might not hold the edge well.
    I Have a sheet of 4mm I don't need, but I need almost all of the 12mm sheets I have.
    I have some old 16mm structural formply, but not 2400 long.

  13. #12
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    Fair enough then. You should still able to build the guide. Let us know how 4mm sheet will hold up during use.

  14. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by justonething View Post
    Fair enough then. You should still able to build the guide. Let us know how 4mm sheet will hold up during use.
    Cheers

  15. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nordo View Post
    I Have a sheet of 4mm I don't need, but I need almost all of the 12mm sheets I have.
    I have some old 16mm structural formply, but not 2400 long.
    I just thought of an idea. Why don't you double up 2 x 4mm as your guide/backing sheet? Brush on some titebond and clamp it down until it's set, then you've got yourself a 8mm sheet.

  16. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by justonething View Post
    I just thought of an idea. Why don't you double up 2 x 4mm as your guide/backing sheet? Brush on some titebond and clamp it down until it's set, then you've got yourself a 8mm sheet.
    Sounds like a plan!!!
    Thanks.

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