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  1. #1
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    Default $24 Moxon Style Vice

    Just put together a Moxon Style Vice for $24 using some scrap, and some vice presses bought from Mcjings for $12 each:

    McJING Tools Online

    I am very happy with it and I thought others might be interested.

    Theres not much too making the vice, the dimensions I used are shown on the last picture.
    If you need it there is some more info and pics on my blog or just post a question.



    joez

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  3. #2
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    Looks like it will do the job very well, Joez. As someone who started off woodworking on a very tight budget myself, I like to see folks who are using their heads & finding hardware that does the job & doesn't bust the bank.

    One question - why did you elect to put the nuts on the moveable jaw? It would seem to me that having them on the fixed jaw would mean you wouldn't have the excess screw sticking out the front & getting in your way.....

    Cheers,
    IW

  4. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by IanW View Post

    One question - why did you elect to put the nuts on the moveable jaw? It would seem to me that having them on the fixed jaw would mean you wouldn't have the excess screw sticking out the front & getting in your way.....
    Thanks IanW,

    Interesting idea I'll have to try that.

    The only real issue I can think off is the last 30-40 mm of the screw isnt threaded so you'd end up losing a little of the jaws range.

  5. #4
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    Sorry Joez. Totally wrong application of the screws. All the clamping pressure is being applied to the woodscrews holding the nuts in the moving jaw. And you have the vise screws completely in the way when you are working.
    Get rid of the pads on the end of the of the press screws, they don't apply to this application. Reverse the nuts and recess them into the back of the fixed jaw. Use a spacer about 10mm thick between the handles and the moving jaw.
    This does mean that you have to pull the moving jaw open by hand but that's the price to pay when using these veneer press screws.
    Brian

  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wizened of Oz View Post
    Sorry Joez. Totally wrong application of the screws. All the clamping pressure is being applied to the woodscrews holding the nuts in the moving jaw. And you have the vise screws completely in the way when you are working.
    Get rid of the pads on the end of the of the press screws, they don't apply to this application. Reverse the nuts and recess them into the back of the fixed jaw. Use a spacer about 10mm thick between the handles and the moving jaw.
    This does mean that you have to pull the moving jaw open by hand but that's the price to pay when using these veneer press screws.
    Looks like another vote for Ianw's suggestion

    Yes you are right about all that tension being applied to the screw in the moving jaw, it was my main concern with this setup.

    Personally I liked the way the handles where kept away from the jaws and my handsaw but it seems like the general consensus is the opposite.

    I'll reverse the nut and mount it in the back and see how I find it.

    I wonder if I can add a circlip style device to allow the jaws to move when vice is opened and closed.

    thanks
    joez

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    Quote Originally Posted by joez View Post
    ....The only real issue I can think off is the last 30-40 mm of the screw isnt threaded so you'd end up losing a little of the jaws range.
    Hi Joe - you will also lose a bit of screw in the thick rear jaw, but that shouldn't be a problem. It would be a rare day that you would want to clamp anything thicker than 50mm in these sorts of vises, & it looks like you have plenty of length to handle that.

    As Wizend points out, the way you have designed things, you are depending on the screws holding the nuts to take a lot of force. I can't visualise how you've fixed the scew in the rear jaw, but I suspect that is an even weaker point, if the strain is being taken by the grub scew holding the end of the main scew in the pressure plate. That system is designed to cop force the opposite way.

    Moving the jaw out manually is a minor hassle, & can be an advantage at times. What you do need to watch if the holes in the front jaw are a snug fit is that the threads will wear a bit of a groove in the wood, and cause the jaw to stick a bit rather than move smoothly. If that becomes an issue, you can hunt around for a bit of metal tubing to line the holes in the front jaw. It is probably an unnecessary refinement, though, as you only need to use these devices for short bursts, occasionally...

    Cheers,
    IW

  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by joez View Post
    I wonder if I can add a circlip style device to allow the jaws to move when vice is opened and closed.
    joez
    Something like this, perhaps?
    You'd need two collars, like drill bit depth stops, with grubscrews for locking to the vise threads. These would be recessed into the inside of the moving jaw. Grooves would need to be cut to get a hex wrench to the grubscrews.
    Brian

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    I can see some new photos appearing any day now.

    We are all waiting for the Version 1.01 of the vice. Way to go Joez.

    Cheers
    Pops

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pops View Post
    I can see some new photos appearing any day now.

    We are all waiting for the Version 1.01 of the vice. Way to go Joez.

    Cheers
    Pops
    Pops your read my mind lol, v1.01 below...

    Overall the feel of the vice is improved, with the main nut locked in place at the rear its easier to open/close the vice.

    There is a new issue though, the handles are press fitted and will work loose through the closing action, a couple of grub screws taped into the sides and some washers should resolve that.

    Thanks everyone.
    joez

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by joez View Post
    There is a new issue though, the handles are press fitted and will work loose through the closing action, a couple of grub screws taped into the sides and some washers should resolve that.

    Thanks everyone.
    joez
    Or drill straight through and drive in a pin, rollpin, preferably.
    But good work there Joe, and speedy too.
    Another suggestion: a large chamfer on the top edge of the moving jaw will give a bit of clearance when sawing with the handle tilted down.
    Brian

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    Quote Originally Posted by joez View Post
    ......a couple of grub screws taped into the sides and some washers should resolve that.
    Joe - either that, or simply drill a through hole to take a nail which can be peined neatly either side to retain it. That will take the pressure adequately, & would be easier than mucking about with screws & tapping....

    Cheers,
    IW

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    Hi Joez,

    No sooner said than done. You are quick. Top job.

    A good application of some standard hardware. That should please everyone, including you.

    Thanks for sharing the development. The forum is full of good ideas and people to help make them even better. Onya fellas !

    Cheers
    Pops

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