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  1. #1
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    Default 3 inch/76mm sanding rolls in super-fine grits

    Hi,

    I have a Performax 16-32 drum sander and I am looking for super-fine rolls of paper for this machine. By super-fine, I mean 400 or more.

    76mm/3 inches seems to be an uncommon size of sanding media based on my searches. I can find superfine grit in media bigger and smaller but not in this width.

    I spoke to The Sandpaper Man this morning but 320 is all he has at the moment.

    Anyone have a secret supplier?

    Thanks.

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  3. #2
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    Default

    What on earth do you want such fine paper for?

  4. #3
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    Nov 2010
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    Perth W.A
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    Default

    I have a similar machine and have only 80 grit for mine at the moment, the finest I have ever used in mine is 180 grit. Going finer will probably result in the sanding medium clogging and burning up very quickly . Even using my 80 grit does a decent job for me and just finish with the Random orbit sander. Most of my work gets sent for spray finishing and I only sand to 240 and my pieces come back looking great.

  5. #4
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    Super fine paper should never be wrapped on a bare metal drum as it will overheat, clog and burn your work very quickly and the tiniest bit of dust on the drum can cause scratches on the work or tear the paper. If you absolutely must go so fine on a drum sander, you should first wrap the drum in a 2-3mm layer of felt to provide some cushioning.

  6. #5
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    The finest that I use in mine is 120 and then use ROS for 180, 240 etc if needed.
    Tom

    "It's good enough" is low aim

  7. #6
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    Default

    Agree with other posters. No point going above 180 on a drum sander IMO.

  8. #7
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    In all seriousness, there is very little use sanding bare wood beyond 180 or 240 max.

    all sorts of people have ideas that simply do not work or have no advantage for sanding.

    If you are applying film forming finishes( varnishes, laquers paints), there is no benefit sanding past 180, in fact sanding past 180 has proven to reduce adhesion.


    If you are applying penetrative or rubbed out finishes, sanding the bare timber past 180 is likewise disadvantageous ....... you would typically snad to 180 then start the finish process .... sanding past 180 will reduce surface absorbtion ....... once the rubbing process begins you will not be ding that in a drum sander.

    Once the finishing process ( whatever that is) has begun you may want to move to grits finer than 180 .... but ya won't be doing that on a drum sander.

    In short ... don't do it you are wasting time and will cause yourself problems.

    cheers
    Any thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
    Most powertools have sharp teeth.
    People are made of meat.
    Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.

  9. #8
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    In all seriousness, there is very little use sanding bare wood beyond 180 or 240 max.

    all sorts of people have ideas that simply do not work or have no advantage for sanding.

    If you are applying film forming finishes( varnishes, laquers paints), there is no benefit sanding past 180, in fact sanding past 180 has proven to reduce adhesion.


    If you are applying penetrative or rubbed out finishes, sanding the bare timber past 180 is likewise disadvantageous ....... you would typically snad to 180 then start the finish process .... sanding past 180 will reduce surface absorbtion ....... once the rubbing process begins you will not be ding that in a drum sander.

    Once the finishing process ( whatever that is) has begun you may want to move to grits finer than 180 .... but ya won't be doing that on a drum sander.

    In short ... don't do it you are wasting time and will cause yourself problems.

    cheers
    Any thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
    Most powertools have sharp teeth.
    People are made of meat.
    Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by soundman View Post
    In all seriousness, there is very little use sanding bare wood beyond 180 or 240 max.

    all sorts of people have ideas that simply do not work or have no advantage for sanding.

    If you are applying film forming finishes( varnishes, laquers paints), there is no benefit sanding past 180, in fact sanding past 180 has proven to reduce adhesion.
    Finally, someone who gets it. There's a reason abrasive manufacturers tend to stop their wood specific products at 240.

  11. #10
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    yeh and 400 is hardly super fine ....... get into wet and dry and 1200 is pretty common stock, 2400 is far from unobtainable.

    then we get some of the silly grits people get into.

    there are quite a few people around who a gtitt hero's ... banging on about how fine they sand or polish too ......... there are very real limits as to how fine is fine enough

    cheers
    Any thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
    Most powertools have sharp teeth.
    People are made of meat.
    Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by elanjacobs View Post
    Finally, someone who gets it. There's a reason abrasive manufacturers tend to stop their wood specific products at 240.
    I was wondering if it was just me ! I don't sand past 240 grit and never understood the mentality of people who sand up to 1000+ grits. It just seems nuts and a total waste of time.
    I work as a professional furniture maker and have my pieces professionally sprayed and have no complaints with the results.

  13. #12
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    A few years ago fine woodworking dis some actual testing on sanding, finish apperance and finish adhesion ........ absolutely no doubt no advantage to sanding past 180/240 for film forming finishes .......
    180 for bear timber and 240 inbetween coats seems to be the best result.
    Any thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
    Most powertools have sharp teeth.
    People are made of meat.
    Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.

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