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  1. #1
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    Nov 2003
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    Default 3m straight edge - or how straight can one get angle iron

    Hi Peoples,

    Next weekend I have a lot of pasterboard walls (and ceilings) to put up.

    Unfortunately, most walls are either just taller or just shorted than a nice multiple of 1200mm which the pasterboard comes in.

    Now, I undertstand the best way to cut is to use a straight edge, cut evenly and deeply with a knife and then break the plasterboard.

    This is fine (I suppose) but I need a very long (3m) straight edge (worst case). I thought of cleaning up (on the table saw) a piece of hardwood but I thought this wouldn't last that long. So I next thought of either a 3m piece of angle iron or angle brass.

    Unless there are easier alternatives (I've got to transport the 3m straight egde 230kms before it's use), what do you think? Is angle iron straight enough to use as a straight edge for using a knife against when scoring pasterboard?

    Thanks in advance

    Burn
    Burn
    When all points of view have equal time The chatter of idiots will drown out the wise

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Albany WA
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    Default

    Bending machines in sheet metal shops have very straight edges.

    Those places have heaps of scrap. Find a friendly one and get a length of 1.6 mm or 2 mm sheet turned over on one edge.

    Your problem will be getting 3000 mm. Most sheet metal comes in 2400 mm lengths.

    I managed to get a piece 2700 mm x 200 mm from a trailer manufacturing place.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
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    Wallan, VIC, Australia
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    377

    Default

    Umm,

    It's plaster board. If your are within 1mm you are probably doing exceptionally well.

    When you score and snap, I bet you wont get parallel / square edges.

    Fill the gap with plaster and tape, if it's not right do it again. even better hide the cut edge behind cornice or skirting.

    Just remember plaster is fill fill fill, you have to go realy astray to bugger it up IMHO.
    Ray

  5. #4
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Kuranda, paradise, North Qld
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    Default

    Burn, plasterboard comes in 1200 and 1350 widths. The bottom will be covered (I presume) by skirting, the top by cornice, so as long as you butt together the factory recessed edges for the centre seam it doesn't really matter if the other cuts are a bit crooked or ragged. I usually use my tape measure like a giant marking gauge, set it to the width you want to rip the sheet, butt the case against the sheet edge, hold your stanley knife with its blade against the hook end of the tape and simply run it down the sheet. Then fold the sheet over the cut, push the blade thru the paper holding the other side together and run it along, hey presto! straight cut, well close enough anyway. They do make special T-squares with slots all the way along the blade specifically for gauging/ripping plasterboard but unless you're hanging plasterboard full time the tape measure method works just fine.
    A few more tips:
    Don't put the plasterboard up without putting temporary 10mm packers on the floor (for stud walls) The space gives the framing room to contract without buckling the sheets or popping screws.

    Don't patchwork around the corners of openings, hang full sheets across door and window openings and then use a handsaw and knife to cut the opening out. This minimizes cracking at the corners and with plasterboard at about $10 per M2 you're only going to save a few dollars, which you'll kick yourself for when you go to patch those cracked corners for the second time.

    Follow manufacturer's instructions regarding glue and screw spacing and DON'T screw the the dobs of glue.

    Plasterboard is mostly made of recycled chookpoo with a bit of plaster to hold it together and a sheet of paper either side for reinforcement so the offcuts make excellent mulch and are great for breaking up cly soil.

    Mick

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Brisbane
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    Default

    If you are looking for a good general purpose straight edge 25 x50x 2 or 3mm aluminium rectanngular section takes a lot of beating.

    I had a 50 x50 x3mm angle straight edge but found that it flexed & twisted to much.

    an other option is 100 x 15mm angle which is a little obscure but good in long lengths.


    All a bit keen if its for plaster board.

    Remember its two sheets of brown paper with some white mud in between
    cheers

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
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    Lakehaven, NSW, Australia
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    Easy straightedge for plasterboard is the factory edge from another sheet of plasterboard. Or just a chalk line and cut, snap then cut the other face - which is exactly how the pros were doing it on some plasterwork in our office the other day.

    It really doesn't need to be all that straight, as others have said.
    The Australian Woodworkers Database - over 3,500 Aussie Woods listed: http://www.aussiewoods.info/
    My Site: http://www.aussiewoods.info/darryl/

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 1999
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    Brisbane, Qld.
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    Default

    Micks method was the method of choice for the plasterer I had working for me last Friday.

    Oh and the cut does not have to be deep so long as it cut through the paper is fine. A light cut helps you keep a nice straight line when running long cuts such as what you are talking about.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    Blackburn, Vic
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    a chalk line is a great tool to have, you can mark perfectly straight lines of extremely long lengths and as it is chalk you can even mark lines on finished surfaces (eg for hanging shelves) and then brush the chalk off. and they're easy to transport around

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    melbourne
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    Micks tape measure method is what I have used unless you have to cut near the middle then use an off cut. Most chippies walls are not that straight anyway.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Nelson Bay NSW
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    80
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    154

    Default

    Hi Burn,

    Last house I renovated had some wierd sized ceilings, stairs and plaster needed a lot of cutting. I got hold of a rectangular aluminium extrusion from a scrap metal yard for a few dollars and have used it as a straight edge ever since, its really rigid, suspect it started life as a service station door rail.

    Anyhow when I did the job, 50 squares, I worked my sizes around 900 and 1200 wide plaster boards. Pretty sure they still make 900.

    I also used some fancy cornice corners from a co in Shepparton, saved all that mitre cutting and looked really good. Available in sydney http://www.sydneyplasterworks.com.au/corniceblocks.html

    Glenn
    In Jus Voco Spurius
    http://www.metalbashatorium.com

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Nelson Bay NSW
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    80
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    154

    Default

    Another image of the interior, sorry the cornice corners are not too clear.

    Glenn
    In Jus Voco Spurius
    http://www.metalbashatorium.com

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