Thread: Adirondack Chair Timber

Plenty of Black Wattyl up your way Pariss, that would do the job.

Still making pens Mate?

Hey Brad. No more pens for a while, done hundreds and just sick of them ha ha. I'll sniff around for some black wattle, that would really be nice !. Cheers mate.

Brown Salwood, or Sally Wattyl also, though I am sure there are plenty of other suitable timbers up there as well.

there's a lot of wood in an Adirondack

ideally you want to use something with a density similar to western red cedar

Black wattle with some silver ash contrasts may be OK.

Bruce

In case you were looking for a plan, this is a good one - the chair is really comfortable. However, if you use this plan, as Ian says, beware it uses a lot of timber. I built one using spotted gum and it is no fun if you want to move it on your own!

Paulownia is claimed to be similar to WRC in weight and strength, termite resistant, waterproof and rot resistant. Have looked online at prices and they seem reasonable to me but I don't have to pay for it, and I haven't priced other species for comparison.

Originally Posted by ian

there's a lot of wood in an Adirondack

ideally you want to use something with a density similar to western red cedar

Ian

I am halfway down the track of building two chairs from Ironbark! I had to smile when I saw your suggestion for WRC.

It is of course ideal if you want to move the chairs about and it is very durable, but it doesn't withstand knocks very well. You can use your thumb nail as a marking knife with it.

When I say I am halfway there, I have the idea in my head, I have the Ironbark (but still have to dress it) and I even bought plans (from Lee Valley), which I have never ever done before: The plans that is not Lee valley. That last part is why I am halfway there as there is a positive commitment and a big incentive. However, as always I am short on time with too many other things taking priority so needess to say I have not really started yet, but the glass is half full .

My thinking was that, because of the strength of Ironbark, I would be able to reduce the timber sizes (thickness). Also the chairs would remain in a fixed position so the issue of moving them about is not so much of an issue.

Some of my thinking would apply to the Wattyls and other hardwoods.

This is what I purchased:

Veritas® "Adirondack Plus" Chair & Footstool Plan - Lee Valley Tools

They also do a folding version for those of you without space and I think there was a two seater as well and as can be seen they have a footstool to compliment.

Regards
Paul

Yep, seems like cheating with full size templates + plans but, I just liked the look of Rocklers chair as it is q bit beefier than some of the others. Postage was more than the bloody plans & templates ( Adirondack Chair Templates with Plan - Rockler Woodworking Tools

I've made several sets of Adirondacks. For the recent ones I've used treated pine, which has been a good choice.

I usually epoxy the bottom third of the legs as mine are required to sit outside 24x7 and the rot starts where contact is made with the ground.

I was thinking of using cypress on the one I have planned

any thoughts on pros and cons?

The thing about the Adirondacks - the thing that makes them such an enduring design - is that they are so low-tech cos there is no real joinery, they are mostly just screwed across broad flat mating surfaces. Hence timber choice doesn't really matter - I guess it's down to cost of timber and durability.

Cyprus would be a good choice except for the fact that (personal opinion here) it's as ugly as sin.

I've found the one weakness in their design is that the legs have end grain in contact with the ground - invitation to rot.

Hoop pine is another good timber have a couple of Adirondacks chairs that I made about 10 years ago used in a situation just as you have mentioned used stainless steel scrws to hold them together and they are still as solid as the day I finished them.

Originally Posted by Bushmiller

Ian

I am halfway down the track of building two chairs from Ironbark! I had to smile when I saw your suggestion for WRC.

It is of course ideal if you want to move the chairs about and it is very durable, but it doesn't withstand knocks very well. You can use your thumb nail as a marking knife with it.

When I say I am halfway there, I have the idea in my head, I have the Ironbark (but still have to dress it) and I even bought plans (from Lee Valley), which I have never ever done before: The plans that is not Lee valley.

This is what I purchased:

Veritas® "Adirondack Plus" Chair & Footstool Plan - Lee Valley Tools

They also do a folding version for those of you without space and I think there was a two seater as well and as can be seen they have a footstool to compliment.

Hi Paul

my father and I built a pair of the folding ones back when he was in his early 80s.
We used WRC for durability and lightness

Ironbark?
you might want to invest in an engine crane to get them from the workshop to where they will live.