Thread: Advice on cutting rebates

Originally Posted by Arron

(without power tools) please ?

Oh dear me, I had the answer for you, right up until I got to that part of your post.

If God didn't want us to use power tools, he wouldn't have made electrons.

(assuming of course that you believe a God exists but that's a topic I'm not allowed to speculate on in here)

Originally Posted by Arron

2. no 71 - medicore result.

Is then when you have to call in an ambulance?

RE: your problem, what about a low angle chisel plane?

Arron, further to Bob's chisel plane idea, what about using the 78 with the blade in the forward position? Or have you tried this?


Cheers................Sean

I'd say your right. Planes, for stability, need a nose. ie. something ahead of the blade to work. So there definetly out.

I agree, a powered router would do this particular process fastest. Especially if its cranky grain.

But you can pull it off with a 71, though it may still leave tearout problems......but your right by itself it doesn't feel particularily stable. What I'd do is fasten a deep fence and a wider sole to it so you've got more leverage to keep it from leaning over.....that should be fine then.

Does it matter if there's a little tearout in places ? Will this stopped rebate be uncovered ?

I think Derek Cohens got a lovely modern version of the 71 that would pull that off.

did you cut the edges of the rebate first with a knife or chisel?
perhaps you could remove much of the waste with a chisel before finishing up with a plane?
cheers

Arron

OK, this is what I would do for a stopped rebate.

Tools: sharp and heavy Japanese knife.
Mugingfang cutting gauge
LN #98/99
Veritas router plane
1" chisel

Method: Use the cutting gauge to mark off the boundaries of the rebate (both sides - upper and lower). Knife these as deeply as you can.

<center> <div><img src="http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Marking%20and%20Measuring/Mugingfangcuttinggauge.jpg" border="0" alt="" /> <br /></center>

I would now chisel out as much of the waste as possible, getting to about 2mm of the lines. You will need to keep knifing one shoulder while you pare into it with a chisel.

Now use the router plane to level it out.

<center> <div><img src="http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Planes/Chips.jpg" border="0" alt="" /> <br /></center>

Finally, to fine tune the dimensions, use a #98 or #99 in bullnose configuration. This will square both ends of the rebate and provide a smooth, even finish to the side wall.

<center> <div><img src="http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Planes/LN98-99.jpg" border="0" alt="" /> <br /></center>

If you choose, finish with a bullnose plane (e.g. Stanley #90)

Regards from Perth

Derek