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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
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    Melbourne
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    Default advice needed for gluing aluminium to wood

    Hi, new member with a first question my name is not Al Wood but Luke.

    I live in Melbourne, i make sculptures and paintings.

    I'm looking forward to trawling the site.

    It would be great to get an opinion on getting a strong glue for aluminium to mdf. I am aiming to bond 25mm x 30mm wide backing mdf frame parts to 3mm al sheets - a size of one of these al sheets for example is ř 90cm, the others slightly larger - hopefully the attachments work and you can see what i'm doing.

    I have read up on cleanliness being important for the bond etc.
    I have seen suggestions like two araldite 2 part epoxy or
    3M Marine Adhesive Sealant 5200, but i'm not quite sure.

    I will be screwing these panels together also, but i want to glue/clamp components first.

    Any recommendations would be appreciated.

    Best,
    Luke

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    May 2011
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    Melbourne
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    Default

    I've used this for various timber projects and and making a recurve bow with timber and fibreglass. Techniglue 500ml Resin | Carbatec

    It's a pretty solid epoxy.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Nsw
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    Default

    I would look to the polyurethanes over epoxy. A product like Sika 11FC will stick like sh@# to a blanket in your situation and you would not be able to remove the two items without destroying them

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 1999
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    Westleigh, Sydney
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    Default

    I've used Techniglue for gluing brass to wood and it's withstood constant use for almost 20 years, so I'd concur with Lewisc's recommendation. Clean both surfaces thoroughly with metho or acetone immediately before gluing.
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  6. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Default

    Cheers, thanks Beardy

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
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    Default great advice thanks all

    Great advice, a thank you to all who have responded.
    I think i will go with a polyurethane - the job being for fairly large panels which will probably need some flexibility.

    I hope everyone stays safe and well.
    Luke

  8. #7
    Join Date
    May 2012
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    Woodstock (Cowra)
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    Default

    What Beardy said 100%
    The person who never made a mistake never made anything

    Cheers
    Ray

  9. #8
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    Thinking about how it sticks to my metal spatula, I reckon you'll be OK with poly.
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  10. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
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    Millmerran,QLD
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    Default

    May I jump in on Luke's thread and ask if there are the same recommendations for stainless steel to stainless steel. It is for a biscuit mould made from banding material. The epoxy I previously used worked for most of the moulds but one has failed twice now.

    P1060033 (Medium).JPG

    Thanks.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  11. #10
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    It will be ok, its approved for potable water, just rough the 2 mating surfaces with first
    The person who never made a mistake never made anything

    Cheers
    Ray

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bushmiller View Post
    It is for a biscuit mould made from banding material.

    P1060033 (Medium).JPG
    Biscuits in the shape of Grandma’s undergarments?
    Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
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    Millmerran,QLD
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chief Tiff View Post
    Biscuits in the shape of Grandma’s undergarments?
    I think we might have to rename you "Chief Eagle Eye."

    They were part of a promotion for "Days for Girls" so they are indeed replicas of good old fashioned knickers: The sort that keep you safe.

    Days for Girls International | Turning Periods Into Pathways

    SWMBO was instrumental in making up kits in our region. Unfortunately, like so many things, bureauracy eventually got in the way.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  14. #13
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    Jun 2010
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    Have you tried soldering the parts together? Either a high tin soft solder or a silver solder should work with an active acid based flux.

    Sorry to hijack this thread a little further Luke!
    Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.

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