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  1. #1
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    Default Advice needed on installing a 1200 wide entrance door?

    Just wondering if 2040 x 1200 x 40mm wide solid entrance doors are installed in the normal way on hinges or do they pivot somehow?
    Anyone have any advice on installing jambs as I have never installed before, do you just cut to size, do you mitre ends??

    What gap should I leave around door, between door and jambs?

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
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    - Just wondering if 2040 x 1200 x 40mm wide solid entrance doors are installed in the normal way on hinges or do they pivot somehow?

    Could do either. Have used both methods many times. Remember that with a pivot, you will lose some of the clear opening inside the jamb. If using hinges, make sure they are a heavy duty commercial type. Two at the top, one in the middle and one at the bottom should be enough.

    - Anyone have any advice on installing jambs as I have never installed before, do you just cut to size, do you mitre ends??

    Never seen or built a mitred jamb before. Just square butt and fix down through the head.

    - What gap should I leave around door, between door and jambs?

    Your hinges will determine the gap. Just create an even margin accordingly. Up to or around 10mm from sill or floor finish to under side of door leaf is common practice.

    Craig.

  4. #3
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    Default

    the most critical question is, what is the jamb fixed to? There are some fairly hefty forces acting on the jamb fixing and as the door arcs open, the moments of force / load change there reaction on the fixings for the jamb and hinge.
    Just be aware that if that door closes with a rush or gets a push from wind, it can do some very serious damage to your jamb anchorage, not to mention the brutality of crushed hands / fingers (children and elderly)
    Commercial hinges either pivot (PITA to install) or normal but hinge style, depends on the style and effect your after.
    The person who never made a mistake never made anything

    Cheers
    Ray

  5. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by rwbuild View Post
    the most critical question is, what is the jamb fixed to? There are some fairly hefty forces acting on the jamb fixing and as the door arcs open, the moments of force / load change there reaction on the fixings for the jamb and hinge.
    Just be aware that if that door closes with a rush or gets a push from wind, it can do some very serious damage to your jamb anchorage, not to mention the brutality of crushed hands / fingers (children and elderly)
    Commercial hinges either pivot (PITA to install) or normal but hinge style, depends on the style and effect your after.
    Thanks Ray, I will be replacing and existing 820mm wide entrance and side light with a 1200mm wide door. The current stud opening is around 1400mm so I was going to pad out the frame with 90x45 F5 structural pine before installing new jambs. Is there anything special I need to do, I know there is going to be much more stress on the hinges and jambs. Do I just need stronger hinges, bigger screws, how many hinges?

  6. #5
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    The best way to hang a door that size it to find someone else to do it for you

  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by solcom View Post
    Thanks Ray, I will be replacing and existing 820mm wide entrance and side light with a 1200mm wide door. The current stud opening is around 1400mm so I was going to pad out the frame with 90x45 F5 structural pine before installing new jambs. Is there anything special I need to do, I know there is going to be much more stress on the hinges and jambs. Do I just need stronger hinges, bigger screws, how many hinges?
    Dont pad out, replace the studs with new ones that are equal to the thickness of your wall (either 70mm or 90mm) x 90mm, use batten screws to fix to top and bottom plates.
    You will need to check to see if there is any roof load on the top plate because 1200 door plus jambs will be an effective opening 1270 minimum. If there is roof load or even 2nd story load, that will require the appropriate size head housed into the studs to carry the load.
    Also, is the bottom of the wall on a concrete slab or bearers and joist. If bearers and joist, then additional support will be required immediately under the new studs if they are load bearing.

    If you are going to use hinges, use 100mm heavy duty brass or stainless steal broad butt and screws (usually 10gauge for heavy duty, if not countersink to suit 10gauge) minimum 100mm long so they not only fix to the jamb but will also go through into the stud as well then you will never have a problem with sagging)and as stated previously, 2 at the top, 1 middle and 1 bottom.

    Your jamb will need to be 30mm thick at the rebate minimum. Do not waste your time with standard jamb thickness of 19mm at the rebate. Use 100mm gal bullet head nails to fix your jamb to the stud frame, ensuring that you predrill the jamb only for the nails

    Cheers
    The person who never made a mistake never made anything

    Cheers
    Ray

  8. #7
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    Thanks again Ray for your advice, much appreciated.
    The house is single storey and I am not sure that I need toworry about the header as I am reducing the overall opening (replacing theexisting 820mm + 500mm sidelight)?
    In regards to replacing studs, could I just add a new 90x45structural pine to the existing hardwood 90x45 stud (glue and nail) toeffectively create a double stud then fix jamb to this?

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