Thread: Advice on joints - no, not that sort

If I understand correctly you need to join two lengths to make them longer. I think a half lap and maybe a dowel or two as well if it isn't that visible, perhaps a finger joint (name?) if it is visible. I'm interested to see what the experts offer, especially since I often need to make a piece longer after I've cut it.

Wikipedia offers splice joints and Scarf joints.

This is the method us boat builders use, I think it is about the strongest way to do it if is glued using epoxy. This method can create a join stronger than the timber being glued. It can be a quite diffclut thing to do, espicially just for one as most people set up jigs to do lots. Do a search on the Boatbuilders section as it is a much discussed topic!

The half lap joint suggested above would be my pref with a pin through it all, and of course glued using epoxy! Have you thought about making it a feature?, say the half lap and then a nice contrasting over lenghth dowel pin through it?
Tell us what you go with.
Scotty

Bodgy
I recently used my finger jointer for the first time and joined 2 pieces of 19mm by 60mm about 1 meter long ply one the ends. This made a 2 meter long piece 60mm wide.

The joint to me appear very strong and I will quite happily keep using it.
Actually it stopped from going out to buy another new sheet of ply and now I say to myself before I go out and buy more timber "can I join some off cuts together to make do"

Oops Sorry Bodgy I didn't read your post properly. The finger jointer will only do about 30mm thick I think not 50mm.:eek:

Cheers

Woody

Groggy,
That is quite easy.

DON'T cut them

Then you won't have to join 'em

Hi Bodgy...

Like Groggy, I need a board stretcher too from time to time. Since you don't have much extra length to play with, it will take a lot of messing around to end up with a compromise, probably very visible. Is there a recycling place nearby to get some longer lengths? You are going to be looking at that for a long time, and a patch job will bug you, and rob you of your sense of accomplishment.

Greg

Gidday

Heres some CAD I scratched up to show a great cutting strategy on how to make a board longer.................I think its pretty self explanitory!

In the last picture to the right the top board shows the original size of the board...................you can see how much length you can get .........quite easily!

REgards Lou

Originally Posted by NewLou

Gidday

Heres some CAD I scratched up to show a great cutting strategy on how to make a board longer.................I think its pretty self explanitory!

What version of CAD are you using? Nice work btw...

I've been trying to learn Autocad!

REgards Lou

I may get told im wrong about this but here is my oppinion anyways

If u want a join that wont show much when finished then u want a butt style joint, like a mortise/tenon or dowel where once glued up theres only 1 continuous edge around the timber, and with good grain this can become fairly invisible.
A lap joint while strong causes a weak point on any forward or backward movement as the lap joint is purely for excess glue spots correct?? I found this awesome site with pics and 3D downloadable images of aheck of alot of joints http://www.nt.sakura.ne.jp/~garakuta...gi/joinery.htm
the names in blue link to new gallerys of even more joints.
Heres a couple I like for that type of joint, the first one I inserted a dowel directly into the center to make it even stronger.
If Im incorrect in any way with my advice and oppinions I welcome criticism as Im here to learn also.

Thanks again

Simon

dont worry if u have to install the language pack for that site, u wont need it

For a no-nonsense join, like Scottyk said: half-lap and a pin through it. If you have a finger jointer, that will also do a nice job. Alot of cheapy pine boards from homecenters are joined with finger joints.
Cheers. Gary

will you be able to fit 2000 x 2000 out of the doors in your shed and through the doors in the house?

why not buy some longer timber for the stiles?

Thanks guys, great response.

Some clarification. I have built a lot of the furniture in the particular room from this one lot of Oregon. I want to try for a matched look. I'll also face the top and bottom rails with it. The timber I have is about 75x100 and varies from 100 to 1300 in each stick. Book shelves etc to be hoop pine.

Half lap and dowel looks to be a nose in front, would look OK I think.

NewLou (hows the shed?) these are 50x50 pieces not boards. I'll remember your CAD stuff when I need to lengthen boards, ta.

Tpassion, nice joints, but most are a bit beyond my current skills. Can't afford a balls up as the timber is gonna cost a bit and I reckon almost a weeks work

Echidna, the plan is to cut the timber in the shed. Lots of stuffing around, rebates from asshole to breakfast, half lap joints where shelf meets stile, a central dovetailed drawer and display cabinet. Bigger than Ben Hur. I'll assemble on the deck adjoining the room in question and should be able to manuover thru the sliding doors OK, once complete. A chance to try out the new toys, errr nail guns, to hold whilst the Epoxy (techniglue) dries.

Without further input looks like the half lap and dovetail seems a head infront.

Looking at my sketches I have 8 x joins to lengthen the stiles and 48 x joins shelves to stiles, plus the ply back and sides, plus the Oregon face panels top and bottom, plus the dovetailed drawer and oregan facing.

If I don't completed stuff it, I'll post the WIP and completed piccies.

Second thoughts I'll post it if I do bugger it. My reverse dovetails seemed extremely popular!

Thanks all.

Whats the name of the scarf joint where the angled cut changes direction at the end? A birds mouth scarf?
Used for joining rafter lengths - the cut starts angled back into the length, then meets the 45 degree main cut, then finishes as it started.
Real easy to explain without a picture.