Thread: Any Advice on Motor Wiring?

Originally Posted by pmcgee

Does yours have a power cord already?
You can see in the second photo there are three cables into the interior ... but the incoming power cable has the three phases and neutral (green) screws to the chassis which you might be able to make out.
Cheers,
Paul

If it's screwed to the chassis it's earth, not neutral. DO NOT CONFUSE THE TWO or you could end up in a whole lot of trouble.

Originally Posted by elanjacobs

If it's screwed to the chassis it's earth, not neutral. DO NOT CONFUSE THE TWO or you could end up in a whole lot of trouble.

No qualifications, no idea, but ... Ground and neutral - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

"Three-phase circuits[edit]In a three-phase circuit, a neutral is shared between all three phases. Commonly the system neutral is connected to the star point on the feeding transformer. This is the reason that the secondary side of most three-phase distribution transformers is wye or star wound. Three-phase transformers and their associated neutrals are usually found in an industrial distribution environment.
Commonly the neutral is grounded (earthed) through a bond between the neutral bar and the earth Bar. It is common on larger systems to monitor any current flowing through the neutral/earth link and use this as the basis for neutral fault protection.
The connection between neutral and earth allows any phase to earth fault to develop enough current flow to "trip" the circuit overcurrent protection device. In some jurisdictions, calculations are required to ensure the fault loop impedance is low enough so that fault current will trip the protection (In Australia, this is referred to in AS3000:2007 Fault loop impedance calculation). This may limit the length of a branch circuit."

I agree with BobL that a triple chip will give you an extremely fine end grain cut on timber but.....If you are cutting 100mm X 50mm hardwood timber I have found that the blade will "bog down". I have a 300mm blade with 96 teeth on my panel saw, it will cut but it doesn't give you a "comfortable cut". Too many teeth and not easily clearing the cut. On my radial arm I have a 300mm X 60 tooth tungsten blade conventional sharpened (no triple chip) It is quite happy to cut any sort of timber all day and gives a smooth cut. I wouldn't be trying to look for more speed, I think Mr Nolex would have done a lot of arithmetic when he designed your saw all those years ago. The secret to fine finish off the saw is Tungsten.

Originally Posted by chambezio

I agree with BobL that a triple chip will give you an extremely fine end grain cut on timber but.....If you are cutting 100mm X 50mm hardwood timber I have found that the blade will "bog down". I have a 300mm blade with 96 teeth on my panel saw, it will cut but it doesn't give you a "comfortable cut". Too many teeth and not easily clearing the cut. On my radial arm I have a 300mm X 60 tooth tungsten blade conventional sharpened (no triple chip) It is quite happy to cut any sort of timber all day and gives a smooth cut. I wouldn't be trying to look for more speed, I think Mr Nolex would have done a lot of arithmetic when he designed your saw all those years ago. The secret to fine finish off the saw is Tungsten.

I highly recommend against a triple chip for solid timber as you can end up with a 'furry' edge as the blade exits the cut. A regular alternate top grind will give you a better cut.

Triple chip was designed for manufactured board and laminates, ATB is for solid timber.