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Thread: Advice please

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    Brisbane
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    19

    Default Advice please

    Hi all,

    I'm interested in setting up a small work station at home so I can make gifts and furniture for home. I have had some experience working with wood in the past, I've made book cases, desks and picture frames. To get started I'm going to attempt to make a large-ish book case, I've uploaded a pic of the sketchit I did for those interested.

    My real question is what basic gear will I need? In the past I've always had access to others workshops but this is no longer the case. Bear in mind that I dont want to do anything fancy for now.

    My list so far:
    • Bench
    • Table Saw
    • Saw Horses (not essential but cheap and handy)
    • Power Drill
    • Router (not essential, I will probably go without)
    • Jigsaw
    • Biscuit Joinmaker (Not sure if I can substitue this for something else)
    • Hammers/Nails/Safety Gear etc.
    I have very limited sapce in which to work as well so the small the benches/saws the better.

    Thanks in advance.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Paignton. Devon. U.K.
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    Default

    At least a couple of hand planes, if not jointer/thicknesser, plus chisels, but purchase the tools has the need arises.
    woody U.K.

    "Common looking people are the best in the world: that is the reason the Lord makes so many of them." ~ Abraham Lincoln

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
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    sunderland. england
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    Default

    You could make your own sawhorses to save cash.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Up North
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    Default

    Years ago, before I was looking into larger projects, we made a bookcase for the kids. All we had was a circular saw and a small router and a small electric drill.
    We had never even heard of dadoes.
    We used the circular saw to cut the parts of the bookcase, the router to cut the grooves (I am using my at that time language ) for the shelves and some nice edges for the front of the carcase and the electric drill to screw it all together.
    These days I would not consider anything but a cordless drill, the lithium ion powered ones never run out of power at critical times and you can use them anywhere.
    Later on we got a jigsaw and a biscuit joiner and we made heaps of stuff for the home.
    I have just had a look at the new Ryobi Table saw and for a very small work space I don't think it looks half bad. When the wings are folded down they do not take up much floor space.
    Have fun
    Wolffie
    Every day is better than yesterday

    Cheers
    SAISAY

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Brisbane
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    19

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jow104 View Post
    At least a couple of hand planes, if not jointer/thicknesser, plus chisels, but purchase the tools has the need arises.
    Yes I forgot Planers, I'll get a hand plane for sure. I don't think I can justify a jointer/thicknesser just yet but I would love to have something like this. I'll also be grabbing a pair of chisels too.

    Thanks for the advice.

    Years ago, before I was looking into larger projects, we made a bookcase for the kids. All we had was a circular saw and a small router and a small electric drill.
    We had never even heard of dadoes.
    We used the circular saw to cut the parts of the bookcase, the router to cut the grooves (I am using my at that time language ) for the shelves and some nice edges for the front of the carcase and the electric drill to screw it all together.
    These days I would not consider anything but a cordless drill, the lithium ion powered ones never run out of power at critical times and you can use them anywhere.
    Later on we got a jigsaw and a biscuit joiner and we made heaps of stuff for the home.
    I have just had a look at the new Ryobi Table saw and for a very small work space I don't think it looks half bad. When the wings are folded down they do not take up much floor space.
    Have fun
    Wolffie
    Thanks fot the advice, I'll go and have a look at those Ryobi's later in the week. For my design I do need to put some dadoes in as the side panels are ply. I also want to route the top but I didn't know how to show this in the sketchit program.

    If I use a normal pine, do you think the shelves (Just under 1200mm x 300mm) will be strong enough to support books without bowing? If not I can change the design to put a support up the middle or perhaps use a stronger wood.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Bundaberg
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    82
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    Default


    If I use a normal pine, do you think the shelves (Just under 1200mm x 300mm) will be strong enough to support books without bowing? If not I can change the design to put a support up the middle or perhaps use a stronger wood.[/quote]


    At that length (1200) 19 mm clear pine should be ok for the shelves
    Regards

    Pal
    Learn from yesterday, live for today, hope for tomorrow. The important thing is not to stop questioning.

    Albert Einstein

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    Dundowran Beach
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    Thumbs up Tools

    If you need plans for sawhorses Pm me and I will dig up some plans for you. However you can get inexpensive , foldup ones at Bunnies for not many buck$.
    You will need a vise and some clamps. there are some good inexpensive clamps on the market. Spend a bit more on your vise.
    I nmy opinion jigsaws are a pain inthe posterior, especiall the cheaper ones.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Derwent Valley,Tasmania
    Posts
    297

    Default

    G'Day GlenQLD,
    This is probably my first piece ever built, about 15 yers ago with bugger all gear and bugger all Knowlege of how to build it.
    Still going strong still in use !
    built out of 19mm radiata pine and colonial skirtings, 1300 long x 1500 high.
    No joints Screwed and glued.
    Catch ya
    Andrew

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
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    Default

    Thanks for the advice guys!

    I took a trip to Bunnings today and scoped out some prices, now I just need to put a list of stuff together and go and buy it all.

    Artme, I've shot you a PM, thanks in advance.

    Ravlord13, that's a pretty nice bookshelf, If mine comes up half as good I'll be wrapped. I might actaully build a pantry for the kitchen first as we're running short on space in there.

    I'll keep you lads posed on progress once I get started anyhow.

    Cheers,

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Brisbane
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    Default

    So I just got a quote for the timbre I need and it seemed quite expensive. I guess in my ignorance I didn't really expect to pay more for timbre than the cost of buying furniture retail. The price quoted was about $600 for Hoop Pine.

    I really want to start this up as a hobby but I can't really justify $600 just for pine for a bookcase. Can anyone reccomend a way to bring down the cost of the timbre?

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Garvoc VIC AUSTRALIA
    Posts
    11,464

    Default

    keep an eye on ebay
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Darling Downs West Aus
    Age
    57
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    460

    Default

    get a trailor or ute and do the rounds on council pickup days. Ive dismantled beds, tables, cabinets etc for timber and manufactured board.
    You soon get over the "scab' feeling when you turn it into other stuff.
    You just have to plan your project around the wood rather than the other way round.
    ____________________________
    Craig
    Saving a tree from woodchippng is like peeing in the pool;
    you get a warm feeling for a while but nobody notices.

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    19

    Question

    Thanks again for the advice.

    I've done some more reading of these forums and I'm still not sure the guy gave me the right price.

    I have a few more questions. (Sorry to keep bugging you all, pricing and wood buying is very confusing)

    Does $600 (approx) seem right for 9 of 2500x200x25 and 4 of 1800x45x45 of Pine?

    Are longer cuts more expensive? E.g. 1000mm cheaper than 2000mm.

    I've noticed a lot of people say "x will cost you z per cubic meter". I don't really get this does that mean in boards/slabs cut to make up a cubic meter? So if I was quoted $1000 for a cubic meter of radiata pine in 200x25 planks is this a good price?

    I wont say where my quotes or anything are from as I'm not sure if these prices are right or if there's been some confusion with my quote.

  15. #14
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Bundaberg
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    Default

    This is a special at Lazarides on hoop pine in Brisbane at this time.
    K.D. Rough Sawn Clear 1 Hoop Pine Set Length Shorts100 x 25 - 1 pack 121 @1.8, 2 packs [email protected], 1 pack [email protected] - $800M3150 x 38 - 1 pack [email protected], 2 packs [email protected], 2 packs [email protected] - $825M3.
    It is usually cheaper to buy the cubic m as timber merchants charge for breaking the pack.
    I can buy clear 195 x 19 radiata here at present for $ 13.00 a mtr. and seconds of the same size for a little over $10.00 a mtr.seconds just has a few knots in it and can adds character to the build.
    It won,t matter the length you buy as the price is $ x a mtr so if you buy a Mtr it will cost you say $9.00 if you buy 8 mtr it will still cost $9.00 a mtr eg $72.00. for the 8 mtr.
    Go to http://www.blocklayer.com/linealcubic.aspx might help you.
    Last edited by pal; 4th March 2008 at 09:18 AM. Reason: added info
    Learn from yesterday, live for today, hope for tomorrow. The important thing is not to stop questioning.

    Albert Einstein

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    melbourne
    Age
    89
    Posts
    738

    Default

    Glenn,

    My advice on tools would be to buy the router before you consider a biscuit cutter. Using a 4mm slot cutter and a simple jig you can use biscuits in construction. I have put kitchen cabinets together with splines made of 4mm ply and a slot cutter.

    Also consider a bandsaw before a jig saw. What is your rationale for a jig saw? The bandsaw might be more expensive but it's versatility is endless. I have 1/8thin blades that can perform as well as many scroll saws and a 1/2in blade for resawing planks up to 8 inches wide ( width does depend on the throat of the saw).

    The only thing the table saw would have an advantage over the bandsaw is in accurately cutting sheet goods. So if you are not into sheet goods work you could, at a pinch, leave the purchase of a table saw for a while.

    jerry

    Everyone is entitled to my opinion

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