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  1. #1
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    Default Affordable veneering methods

    I need to veneer some 0.6mm thick raw wood veneer (Brush box wood Brush Box (Quarter-cut)) onto some MDF and I have some doubts about what method I should use to do this.

    I few youtube videos and other research have shown people using contact cement, ironing + yellow wood glue/white PVA glue, and powdered hide glue.

    According to this site -> 8 Important Veneering Tips: How to Get a Perfect Panel Everytime (under paragraph 2. Choosing the right glue), contact cement should not be used with raw wood. Regarding yellow glue (and likely white glue as well):

    "Despite the recommendations of many woodworkers, I have never found yellow glue to be suitable for veneering. This type of glue never fully hardens, and thus allows the veneer to "creep" or move during seasonal changes in humidity. And because of its thin consistency, yellow glue also has a tendency to bleed through and discolor the veneer. Lastly, since yellow glue dries with a soft glue line, it is also very difficult to sand."

    Hide glue is recommended by this site and other sources, but the smallest amount I can buy from a brick and mortar store (Jacksons) is 500g for $50. I went there today because their website said they had 100g for $15, but they discontinued it. I did some reading and liquid hide glue (
    https://www.timbecon.com.au/joinery/...quid-hide-glue) is not as effective as the powdered stuff.

    Titebond makes cold press veneer glue (
    https://www.timbecon.com.au/joinery/...veneering-glue), but it's $50 for 1 gallon and they don't sell smaller sizes.

    Does anyone have any recommendations for what I should do?

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  3. #2
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    Default

    Would this not work for you? https://www.carbatec.com.au/joinery-...de-237ml-brown

    Apologies, I don't do any veneering myself - I was following your "lead" on hide glue and recalled seeing this on a visit to Carbatec.

  4. #3
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    Default

    Hide glue is old school, many hundreds of square meters of timber veneer have been fixed with PVA around the world with no problems

  5. #4
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    Default

    Titebond 2 or 3 is fine.

    If dries fast enough so one can de-bag or unclamp the job after 30 minutes.

    Absolutely no need to heat the job or fart around with special pots, stink or witchcraft.

  6. #5
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by China View Post
    many hundreds of square meters of timber veneer have been fixed with PVA around the world with no problems
    Ditto for contact glue. The recommendations against those glues are basically "something technically could happen, but it's highly unlikely in 99% of cases".

    Oh, BTW, here's the data sheet for that Titebond stuff, you might be interested to find that it's....modified PVA https://titebond.com.au/wp-content/u...for-Veneer.pdf

  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Midnight Man View Post
    Would this not work for you? https://www.carbatec.com.au/joinery-...de-237ml-brown

    Apologies, I don't do any veneering myself - I was following your "lead" on hide glue and recalled seeing this on a visit to Carbatec.
    I read around and people were saying that it wasn't as good as powdered hide glue. There aren't any online sources that I can find of someone using liquid hide glue for veneering.

  8. #7
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    Default

    I have titebond 1. Would that be ok?

  9. #8
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by elanjacobs View Post
    Ditto for contact glue. The recommendations against those glues are basically "something technically could happen, but it's highly unlikely in 99% of cases".

    Oh, BTW, here's the data sheet for that Titebond stuff, you might be interested to find that it's....modified PVA https://titebond.com.au/wp-content/u...for-Veneer.pdf
    I'd get it if I could buy a smaller amount for less money. I'm also not sure what kind of PVA glue (I think cross linked has something to do with it) I can use that would be suitable.

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by noheartbreakers View Post
    I'd get it if I could buy a smaller amount for less money. I'm also not sure what kind of PVA glue (I think cross linked has something to do with it) I can use that would be suitable.
    Dude, the whole point here is ANY cross-linking PVA (and probably any PVA in general) or contact glue will do just fine, you don't need to buy some fancy cold press veneer glue.

    Just because some blog post says you shouldn't use XYZ doesn't mean it's true. We are people who've actually done it (some of us for a living) giving you the recommendations you originally asked for.

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by noheartbreakers View Post
    I read around and people were saying that it wasn't as good as powdered hide glue. There aren't any online sources that I can find of someone using liquid hide glue for veneering.
    YouTube

    Rick

  12. #11
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    I do a great deal of veneering. I buy 20kg boxes from Briggs and others. Veneer is just thin wood.

    If it were 3mm thick, what glue would one use ?

    Just because it's thin is almost meaningless . If the glue line colour is a concern, just do a small test.

    Despite the different properties of titebond 1, 2 and 3, for the average user it simply comes down to the colour it dries . I *prefer* tb2 on pine and MDF and I prefer TB3 the on darker timbers.... But I very rarely sit down with a coffee and contemplate the TB technical data and ensure its exactly going to perform in my intended situation in 300 years time.

    This whole "Brown glue is...." and "animal glues are reversible" is pure WANK. Perhaps if you are Patrice Lejeune restoring a Louis XIV artifact from the palace of Marseille it would be important, but for us wee peasants, the store stuff is fine.

    If creep is a problem, sprinkle a little table salt. It acts as a temporary anti-slip .

  13. #12
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by warrick View Post
    YouTube

    Rick
    Yeah, that's the video that convinced me to use hide glue. But from what I can tell, he's using powdered hide glue and not liquid hide glue (like the stuff Titebond makes)

  14. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by elanjacobs View Post
    Dude, the whole point here is ANY cross-linking PVA (and probably any PVA in general) or contact glue will do just fine, you don't need to buy some fancy cold press veneer glue.

    Just because some blog post says you shouldn't use XYZ doesn't mean it's true. We are people who've actually done it (some of us for a living) giving you the recommendations you originally asked for.
    So something like this ->

    Sika 5L Sikabond(R) PVA Adhesive | Bunnings Warehouse

    will be perfectly fine?

  15. #14
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    I think it would be fine to use. I prefer contact because it's fast, but you don't get any room for error; if you misplace the sheet, that's where it's staying.

  16. #15
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    Not an expert, but I’ve found ‘school’ PVA to work just fine.

    5L for $30. Sometimes thinned a little to work with a roller, easier.

    Surface area is your friend.

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