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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
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    Eastern Suburbs Melbourne
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    Default Alternative to end vise

    Dear all,

    I'm looking for a way to plane and/or rout small/medium size flat pieces of work on my bench. These pieces could range from 6mm to 25mm in thickness. Ideally I would use a bench dog in an end vise to clamp up to a bench dog/stop on the bench but my bench doesn't really allow for an end vise because of space restriction. So does anyone have any ideas on how I can set up a flexible arrangement that would allow me to rout or plane a piece without having to move a clamp etc to get access to all parts of the top of the workpiece.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Garvoc VIC AUSTRALIA
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    11,464

    Default

    Use a piece of chipboard.
    Attach a cleat to one side that you clamp in your vice so you can hold the chipboard secure on the benchop.

    Tack offcuts around the perimeter of your workpieces so with some small wedges they can't move. Wedges are fast and easy to clamp with

    If the chipboard is beg enough you can have all the sides of your work pieces on the one sheet.
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Perth WA
    Posts
    131

    Question Wonder Dogs

    Have you seen Veritas wonder dogs? Sounds like they might be ideal for your needs. See them here:
    http://www.carbatec.com.au/store/ind...h=60_7800_7870
    Cheers,
    toddles

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    kyogle N.S.W
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    50
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    4,844

    Default

    https://www.woodworkforums.com/showth...ht=fish+scaler

    My fish scaler idea. A couple of them, with sliding back support. Best way I've ever gripped anything whilst keeping the top free for plane work.

    I don't know. Maybe too involved for you.

    Bobs idea sounds good, especially if all the pieces are the same size. wedge it all up on all sides.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
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    Eastern Suburbs Melbourne
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    Default

    Thanks Bob and Toddles for getting back to me.

    Bob, I had thought about a sacrificial boards but would prefer to use existing bench. I literally have no room left for anymore boards and some of the pieces I would use it on would have to be 600 by 750. I am using wedges at the moment but because of the different sizes of pieces it would need a bit of set up time.

    Toddles, I did see the wonder dogs, I think the metal bar would be too big for some of the thin material I use and would get in the way of the plane or router.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,842

    Default

    Tiger

    You may struggle to find one jig or solution for both planes and routers. Rather look for a solution for each.

    I can help with the plane. Just add an adjustable stop at the endof your bench. This can adjust to any height. An end vise is not necessary.


    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Eastern Suburbs Melbourne
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    2,577

    Default

    Apricot, came across your idea after I posted, only concern is the teeth marks. After routing a piece, I would not be crosscutting it, I'd be finishing it. Still a great idea.


    Derek, I saw your post before and I experimented with an adjustable stop at the end of the bench. There was a little movement as I pushed against the block. Does your adjustable stop move when you push wood against it? You could well be right about having to use 2 methods for routing and planing. I had hoped that I could come up with a flexible system that would allow me to plane, rout, sand etc but after trying out router pads, wedges and other systems I find flaws in them that don't allow for greater versatility.

    Anyway, the fish scaler and the end of bench adjustable stop are both great ideas.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Elimbah, QLD
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    3,336

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Tiger View Post
    Toddles, I did see the wonder dogs, I think the metal bar would be too big for some of the thin material I use and would get in the way of the plane or router.
    Tiger,

    I use Veritas brass bench dogs and wonder dogs. The metal bar is not a problem if you use a piece of 6 mm plywood or hardwood as a spacer between the wonder dog and the workpiece.

    Rocker

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
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    10,842

    Default

    Derek, I saw your post before and I experimented with an adjustable stop at the end of the bench. There was a little movement as I pushed against the block. Does your adjustable stop move when you push wood against it?
    Tiger

    The stop and the skirting are both thick, hard Jarrah. The two bolts that connects these are 1/2" steel. I do not get any movement or loosening at all.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh
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    7,696

    Default

    A track system in the bench top? Did Lou do something along those lines? Try a search and it will come up
    A vacuum system will also work.
    CHRIS

  12. #11
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Tasmania
    Age
    48
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    1,006

    Default

    Try searching for Newlous WOrkbEnch.
    He seems to have come up with a new way to do everything

    Cheers, Jack
    "There is no dark side of the moon really. Matter of fact it's all dark."

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
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    kyogle N.S.W
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    Default

    You could probably use wedges on derek's bench there I'd imagine as well, if you want the work rigid, such that there's no fear it'll slide any direction.

    In addition to that stop block(like off the end of Derek's bench), could have a peg and wooden block stop, (like he's got there sitting on his bench) placed on both sides and end of your work.....then between each stop and your work, hammer in a tapered wedge.

    Then for the thinnest of stock...(you mentioned as thin as 6mm didn't you Tiger).....do Rockers idea with say 3mm ply or whatever to raise your work up clear of the side and end stops.

    So, all you'd need is an array of bench dog holes all over your bench ? maybe.

    You get me ? That be a pretty simple and cheap setup at least. Personally don't like those veritas wonder dogs.....they can spin, causing an accident , when push comes to shove. But each to there own.

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Warwick, QLD
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    45
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    Default

    For routing you used to be able to buy some special mat the you sat the work on that stopped it sliding around. I have used one at a school that I did some work for last year and it worked well. Not to sure where you could get it from though?
    Have a nice day - Cheers

  15. #14
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Wood Butcher View Post
    For routing you used to be able to buy some special mat the you sat the work on that stopped it sliding around. I have used one at a school that I did some work for last year and it worked well. Not to sure where you could get it from though?
    Don't you find the work still moves about a bit on them though ? sorta wiggles about.

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
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    Warwick, QLD
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    Default

    Probably did a bit but for what I was doing (making raised panels) it didn't affect anything.
    Have a nice day - Cheers

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