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Thread: How do you radius 3mm MDF
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11th November 2013, 12:24 PM #1New Member
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How do you radius 3mm MDF
Hello everyone.
I have a problem (dont we all?). I really need some advise on how to neatly efficiently, acurately and consistantly put a radius on the edge of 3mm MDF. I have tried everything I can think of to do this and my last resort is to ask for help from the outside. Im sure there is a way to do this that my small brain has not come across. I know that if I can find the answer to this issue, my life will change and I can (hopefully) get a (cool) product onto the market that depends on solving this evasive problem.
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11th November 2013, 12:38 PM #2GOLD MEMBER
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A router with a small round over bit will do the job but might require the use of a router table rather than hand held.
I've only ever done this on the Triton router table.Geoff
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11th November 2013, 12:49 PM #3.
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What about a reverse "hags tooth"
3mm slot in a piece of spring steel and round the end of the slot with a 3 mm round file and leave a sharp edge, just run the slot over the MDF and it should form a round over.
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11th November 2013, 12:54 PM #4
I do all of my life changing events with a router
Yes, definitely a router and a 3mm rounding bit but, depending on your hand/eye co-ordination, you shouldnt need to do it with a router table. I have a separate base however that supports the router better and can post a pic tonight if you need.
flettya rock is an obsolete tool ......... until you don’t have a hammer!
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11th November 2013, 12:58 PM #5
Dremel make a small router table that may do the job 231 Shaper/Router Table / Model: 231 or a plunge router attachment 335-01 Plunge Router Attachment / Model: 335-01 & they have round over bits Router Bits
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11th November 2013, 01:11 PM #6
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11th November 2013, 01:47 PM #7
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11th November 2013, 02:05 PM #8New Member
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Roundover
I am using straight components and at this point I would prefer to round over both edges in one stroke if possible
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11th November 2013, 03:26 PM #9
If you want to do both edges at once use a bull nose cutter, and if you don't have a router table then, one option is to use a laminate trimmer, and clamp the 3mm mdf to a base board for the bearing to run on.
bull nose bits
You can use the bearing on the laminate trimmer rather than the one on the cutter, as an alternative, if you want to setup that way
https://www.google.com.au/search?q=m...=isch&imgdii=_
Good luck with the project
Regards
Ray
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11th November 2013, 05:04 PM #10New Member
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Yes. The bullnose bit is the go. Thanks everyone for helping me with this one.
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11th November 2013, 06:36 PM #11GOLD MEMBER
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It depends on how much you have to do but you say you wish to put a product to the market so I presume you wish to do a reasonable amount of this profile. As stated a bullnose cutter is the best option but according to the carbi-tool guide the smallest they make is 4mm(to large) so you could have one made you're local tool maker/sharpener should be able to produce one for you from a straight bit quite easily. But you will need to use a router table or at least a fence on a laminate trimmer or router would suffice so you don't have to constantly clamp to another piece of material to use a bearing to run on which will slow the process down quite considerably.
Regards Rod.
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11th November 2013, 08:16 PM #12New Member
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3mm MDF Radius
Thanks Rod. I did notice that 4mm was the smallest bullnose bit at the Carbitech site. Do you have any suggestions as to anyone here in Melbourne that could do that sort of modification on a straight bit?
Regards
Frank
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11th November 2013, 09:36 PM #13
Carbitool in Moorabbin will probably make a bit to your requirements.
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11th November 2013, 09:47 PM #14New Member
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Thanks Handyjack. I will make inquiries into this.
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11th November 2013, 11:41 PM #15
Of course!! I must have been day dreaming when I first read your post. A 1/8 side bead if you have 10 to 20 meters worth to do.
You would have the first 5 meters finished in the time it takes to put a cutter in a trimmer.
If you have three or more sheets of 2.4 x 1.2 then a trimmer or router with a cutter.
A side bead has a depth stop for when you want a bead on the edge of a board but if the stock your moulding is as wide as the cutter it works as a bull nosing plane . 1/8 th is a common size and the most used out of my side beads .That and the 3/8 with which I bull nose the tops of drawer sides .
And1/8 th is 3.17mm
Getting a good working straight one is probably not as easy as buying a new cutter for a router
Rob
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