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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Ft. Myers, Fl
    Posts
    84

    Default Anot her Crosscut sled revisedG'day Y'all I am an old man with fingers that don't wo

    G'day Y'all

    I am an old man with fingers that don't work to well so I need all the help I can get when it comes to making boxes. I had a crosscut sled that i made some time ago and it got banged and beat around so I decided to make a new one and maybe add a few features.
    So I started with this basic 610 x 295 mm (24' x 16")
    https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_e...0/IMG_1888.JPG

    but I wanted to have a guide for cutting long thin pieces because I could not hold them accurately enough. so I put in two strips of "T" Slot and that worked rather well. I scabbed a little scrap together and got this.
    https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_e...%28copy%29.JPG
    I am going to cut some more pieces and make angle templates for 22 1/2; 30; 45' ;67 1/2 degrees that will fit in the T slots.
    Since I miter the edges of my boxes I thought it would be nice to have a template or jig to do the mitering and after 3 or 4 tries came up with this
    https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_e...0/IMG_1892.JPG
    This lets me lay a slab on the 45 slope and slide the assembly up to the cut line where i set the two indexing pins on the pack of the slide.
    https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_e...2/IMG_1895.JPG
    This worked well but my fingers got very close to the blade so I came up with a hold down that is cheap, quick and holds well.
    https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_e...0/IMG_1897.JPG
    and the clamps to hold everything in place.
    https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_e...0/IMG_1894.JPG
    I did not like the drag on the top of the saw so I put HDPE strips on the bottom that are 1 mm thicker than the slot is deep. The sled slides just on the HDPE and not opn the saw table top.
    https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_e...0/IMG_1898.JPG
    I did not put a block over the exit hole for the blade because I found that I tended to rely on it to keep me from getting cut. I also found that I invariably pushed the sled to far and finally cut through the block, So I put a screw in the out run table that stops the sled before the blade comes through.
    I would really appreciate comments on the design, either good or bad, I was in construction for 45 years so your can't hurt my feeli9ng. The workmanship is not as good as it should be but I will build the next ones on the CNC machine and will come out a lot better. I have shown this to 3 friends and two of them want one of their own and I would like to incorporate improvements to the design if you fellows have any suggestions.
    regards
    Joe

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    544

    Default crosscut sleds

    Thanks for your post and pictures, Joe. I built two sleds a week or so ago - one for 90 degree cuts and one for 45 degree cuts. Of course, the first box I built afterwards was a six sided affair needing 30 degree cuts (after viewing and copying a design from another poster). Pictures attached. The box is a work in progress - the lid has not been cut free yet. I preferred to place the workpiece flat on the sled and tilt the blade to cut the 45 degree mitres rather than follow the route you took: tilting the workpiece and keeping the blade at 90 degrees.

    I really like the idea of placing the sled stop on the run out side of the table. Why didn't I think of that? I added a wooden tunnel to house the spinning saw blade after the cut but then still didn't feel safe: if I keep pushing the sled the blade eventually comes through (unguarded).

    homesy135

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Munruben, Qld
    Age
    83
    Posts
    10,027

    Default

    Good work guys, reminded me I have to make a new one too. The old one has become overused and a bit inaccurate. Oh well will keep me out of mischief.
    Reality is no background music.
    Cheers John

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Ft. Myers, Fl
    Posts
    84

    Default Ceoaacut

    homesy135
    i would like to see some more of that box. It makes my head hurt trying to figure out what i am seeing.

    I can build a donkeys ear for the sled that is dead on accurate. Drop it in place and I am ready to cut. If I crank the blade over I can only come close to 45 because of the width of the indexing marks. That means 5 or 6 trials to get close enough and that old Unisaw is stiff to crank at that angle.

    If I set the donkeys ear on the table and set the indexing pins, I can add 1mm to the width of the material for each edge I am going to miter and then I just drop the piece into the blade slot and clamp. I can see exactly where I am going to cut and I know it is dead on 45. This means that I can make some really nice joints without any problems.

    I like to build tissue boxes and I use mostly 3 mm slabs

    https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_e...U/IMG_1905.JPG
    https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_e...E/IMG_1906.JPG
    https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_e...2/IMG_1907.JPG

    regards
    Joe
    Last edited by jredburn; 29th April 2011 at 05:52 AM. Reason: add pictures

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    544

    Default crosscut sleds

    Thanks, Joe. I'll post some pictures in the Box Making forum when it is finished.

    I really like your finger jointed box. Those fingers look so delicate, the wood appears to have been stitched or zipped together. Nice timber, too.

    Donkey's ear or tilting blade? This is one of the great things about woodwork: there are often several ways to achieve the same outcome. One can choose the option that best suites their budget, materials, safety, existing tooling or just what suits them on the day.

    I bought one of those Wixey digital angle finders to help me with mitres. I zero it on the table top and attach it to the blade (it has magnets in it's base) and dial in the angle required. Of course, this approach would require a new sled for each angle so I use an Incra mitre jig to introduce the wood to the blade. This approach has limitations. The biggest limitation for me is holding small parts when making cuts. My fingers would get too close to the blade. A donkey's ear with the part clamped in place would be better in this situation. Or use a bandsaw or hand tools.

    Now its time to do some woodwork rather than talking about it.

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