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Thread: Aquarama
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21st December 2019, 03:16 PM #46Senior Member
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I have decided to purchase 3.5mm X 1meter half rounds in brass from England for the rubbing rails. The freight will probably kill me. I will get them chromed and then drill the mounting holes 1mm. I placed some styrene strips 3.5mm half round against the hull and regardless of scale etc - it just looks the right size. Scale seems to do funny things visually as you go down.
Work on the motor mount bracket. This is still rough and I have to find a way to fix it to the floor. The motors have water jackets that slide over them so I have to allow for their thickness. I might make a huon pine block and fix it to the floor and to the two 20mm logs. Tricky, I have to meet the floor at the V in the hull angle and come up vertical to have a top surface at 18 deg to line up with the prop tubes. Might try to get some thread inserts to make the whole thing removable. Lots to do there I think.
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Finally made the prop tubes permanent now I have a good alignment with the motors. Fixed in place with high strength Araldite.
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21st December 2019 03:16 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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22nd December 2019, 01:10 PM #47
They must be the smallest uni joints I've ever seen . It's looking great, keep up the good work.
Cheers, Bob the labrat
Measure once and.... the phone rings!
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22nd December 2019, 02:53 PM #48Senior Member
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Suggest you chrome them after drilling and cutting to make sure you don't affect/damage finish and have everything covered. Also talk to chrome guys about best preparation of the surface.
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24th December 2019, 03:22 PM #49Senior Member
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If if drill the rubbing strips prior to chroming I may have a problem?
I want to set the strips into their final curvature shape against the hull and one around the spray rail below. I agree I need to do this before chroming as I don't want to bend them after that as I may damage the finish.
Might have to make a jig to hold the strips in place at each station - hole. Would not like the drill to run off the crown of the half round!
Problem. If I predrill the holes in the strip first I fear that while bending them they will bend first at the drill sites causing a not smooth curve, more like a straight line between each hole?
Problem. Also if I pre drill the holes I think the chroming process may partially of fully close over the holes. I saw that in a mates car parts he had chromed, he had to re drill all of the mount holes. Easy at 10mm not so easy at 1.5mm into hard chrome.
Every time I solve a problem with this build I come up with another. At least it's not boring for me.
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26th December 2019, 07:00 AM #50GOLD MEMBER
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Just as an aside, be VERY careful when charging the LiPo batteries, lots of info around snd pictures of burnt benches/garages/sheds after they have caught fire during charging. My friend who is into r.c. boats puts his in a special brick enclosure with a sand bag roof to charge them and if there is any heat or flame, the plastic bag full of sand melts and sand dumps on the battery extinguishing it. He’s working on designing a charger which senses voltage and shuts off power when needed. Worth looking into.
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26th December 2019, 10:05 AM #51Senior Member
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I can only share the experience I had where pre drilling did not cause your problem and the strip did not bend at the drill holes and formed along the length of the boat fine.
But I was working at a completely different scale and there were no sharp curves or significant force applied to the strip.
Perhaps, after you cut your lengths you could use some of the left over material to test pre drilling and bending on your sharpest curvesfirst.
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26th December 2019, 10:09 AM #52GOLD MEMBER
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Hi duke I’m wondering if you even need to screw them at all? Being a model it won’t spend time rubbing against wharf piles like a real boat , maybe just key the back of it well and sikaflex them on? Just thinking outside the square a bit
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28th December 2019, 02:01 PM #53Senior Member
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Thanks for the tips guys.
I am pretty new to this RC LiPo battery stuff so I will heed the safety tips. Had a test charge and monitored them, they seemed to go ok at 2Amps. Did not get much heat involved and they were down to .6amp pretty quickly so I guess they came pretty well charged out of the box. Can't test them on the motors yet as I am waiting for a connector type.
Seen some horror vids after I read thatabout LiPos. Pretty dangerous batteries - was a big problem with commercial aircraft apparently. The aircraft investigation show showed one plane catching on fire from those batteries, lost everyone on board. They did not change the battery type after loosing aircraft as the batteries were just too good. They put them in a double shielded metal box in the front of the plane under the pilots! Still using them today, think of that next time you fly.
The metal strips have to be bent on quite a curve around the spray wings across the transom and up the other side in one piece. I will as suggested try some test pieces first. Maybe I do not need the pseudo screw holes and screws but I think it would look kinda cool so I will persevere.
It will be ages as the metal is coming for England. My better half suggested going to England to get them but I am wise to her, she just wants to go over there to snoop around her ancestors old graves etc.
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5th January 2020, 02:01 PM #54Senior Member
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Went to order the brass rubbing strakes from England. £7.50 for a piece of 1m brass whoo hoo I will have five please.
But wait .. that will be £175.00 for freight UK to AUS. EACH! No thanks very much.
So I still have not found a supplier for rubbing strips yet. I am getting desperate for something to use.
Meanwhile I made some back of seat drinks trays for the little dudes that will sit in the back. The photo etch grill came from from a kit and I made the surrounds from Huon Pine and rebated using the Dremel and the Dremel router attachment. Ca glued it together, not too bad. Wouldn't mind a drink with them right now!
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5th January 2020, 04:52 PM #55GOLD MEMBER
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I’m sure I saw half inch wide half round brass in the rack at McJings, I’ll have a look next time I am there
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5th January 2020, 07:18 PM #56Senior Member
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Yes I can get 1/2 inch half round in Aus too. I think it is too wide at 12.5mm that would scale up at 120mm for a brass rubbing rail !..
I think about 3.5mm maybe 4mm? would be about 35mm on a real boat.
Ideal 850mm long by 3.5 W 2mm T. I think..
Does that sound right?
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5th January 2020, 09:11 PM #57Senior Member
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Sad to hear freight was that bad.
I found this which harkens back to the milling idea.
Jig for milling Half Round Beading from round stock | Model Engineer
My googlefu is strong today as I found this Australian Site.
Brass Half Round - Hobby Mechanics
Also this alternative site which agrees to free shipping for orders over $60 or somthing (UK again).
Has a good range of beading from 1/8" to 5/32" (3.9mm).
Search Results -> brass half round :
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6th January 2020, 11:48 AM #58Woodworking mechanic
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A bit extra but How about something upmarket like this if your stuck?
Sterling Silver Full 1/2 Rnd Wire 4.0x2.0mm
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6th January 2020, 02:14 PM #59Senior Member
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Thanks Bones and others,
I had seen the Aus Hobby Mechanics web site with the 3.2mm half round but shied away as it listed 300mm lengths only. I did not think I had the skill to join the lengths neatly so I had dodged it.
I rang a John Ruggles from the Hobby Mechanics in Queensland and he was able after some running around to supply me with a 2.7m continuous length of 1/8" half round brass. Great helpful fella, good price and not too bad for the freight. Just got the mail, should be here soon!
That's another problem nailed down - excuse the pun.
Duke.
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12th January 2020, 04:37 PM #60Senior Member
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Mounting the motors,
Used some Huon Pine trimmed to the angle of the prop tubes to the hull floor. Used two thread inserts to accommodate socket head screws used later to fasten the motors. Drilled the inserts in the vice to stop splitting.
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Resined the screw block into the hull between the logs with some similar shaped spacers either side and onto the floor.
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Used some aluminum angle to make a mounting bracket. Had to allow OS holes for tuning of motor positions and of bracket to mount position. The motors were tuned to allow for minimal deviation at the universals, I hope this relieves the stress on them and the transmission of more power without binding losses.
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The motor bracket was trimmed of unnecessary material to lessen weight.
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Mounting bracket and motors in final position. Props seem to spin easy by hand without any binding. No connectors for the batteries delivered yet so no power test.
The 2 ESCs were joined back to back with HD doubled sided tape to make one block. I made a noggin behind station 8 to mount the ESC block. Used 2 velcro tapes to bind the ESC block to the noggin, nice and tight can't move. The water tubes are only rough at this stage, I have number 2 son making me some SS exhaust flanges and copper exhaust pipe to go through the transom.
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