Thread: Aquarama

I put a stainless plate at the bow to support a big fair-lead, just sitting ther at the moment. Seeing how that point should be strong enough to have a heavy rope on real boat - I used a larger fitting.

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Fitted a cutwater or bow keel protector? I intended to use all of the parts supplied but could not fit it properly. Resined it on and used brass pins for effect. Maybe I could fill and paint the joint? It looks ok but that's all.

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Trying to fit the lower cutwater below the chines. It should fit neatly and go up against the upper one. Fiddly bugger of a thing. I found a web site "Cutwaters.com" Old dude there had good info on how to do a real one - fascinating stuff. I really want this thing but it is hard.

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Ok so I twitched the two stainless plates together with some ss wire and put them in the vise with some little bits of wood under to get them close to shape. Used 5% silver solder and gas to join them together. Wasn't too hard to solder with plenty of flux and clean metal.

I smoothed out the joint with files and polished it up with 220 paper, looked lovely. Placed it on the front and tried to push it down to conform better to the hull. And it fking snapped.

I did this twice more and it broke each time... and I am scratching the hull... and it is 39 degrees here today.

So I chucked it in the corner shut the shed and went inside to buy myself a beer.


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Damn thing I really want this, can't do it.

on a real boat, they would take a mould of the forefoot and make a plug from it, then cut and fit the shoe to that, once you've soldered or glued the two together, there's no moving them. with the mould of the actual section of hull, the two pieces can be fitted perfectly, and even tacked together in position,on the little mould (usually they are stainless) then taken off and fully welded. get good at making templates from stiff paper or thin plastic sheet, then transfer that shape onto the finished material.

I really did consider making a mold of the bow to make the cutwater when i was fooling around with those bits, but it is another skill I have not tried yet. I know not how to do it. I suppose I could cover the area with glad wrap and apply some automotive bog or the like to make a mold? I guess then some glad wrap in the mold and make a plug for more bog? The plug is then used to form the cutwater over? Does that sound right?

Meanwhile..

Been working on the dashboard and gauges etc. Some piccys

I had a few goes at the dashboard backing board before I was happy to cut some huon pine up. The board had to be trimmed in to fit under the bow upper dash thwart neatly, too many curves to get it right first go.

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Installing gauges and stainless trim rings in the wood. Cut the holes undersized with a plug cutter. Trimmed to fit with a fine round file.

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I had to make a template from images off the net to line up all of the meters in their correct possession. This varies in different Riva models depending on which year I choose.

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Made some backing plugs up by turning some dowel on the lathe. The dial indicator decals sit on the plugs up against the trim rings. There is an angled block behind the dash to maintain the angle of the dashboard to the vertical roughly 8 deg.

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How is this vessel coming along? Ready for a splash?

Hey there!

Been out of action for a while. I had a new knee put in and it is taking a while to get back in the saddle. Wow I am learning all about pain.

Started back at it this afternoon doing a little bit. Bit of upholstery and some trim ,nothing big yet cause I can't stand for long.

I suppose with the Virus thing and the pending lockdowns I will have plenty of time to do some now.

Take care everybody.

Gauges finished, got these done before the knee op.

Nice piece of Huon Pine, lovely to work with.

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Ready to put in the boat.

Nice, but the tachometers are upside down, sure that’s easy to fix though.

Weeeel I will take it under advisement but this is a picture of the tachs on an original boat

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And some instructions from the gauge supplier in Italy

Meter Layout.jpg

That's what I used for a guide and the Riva moniker is the right way up!

I'm so confused

Your.research is impressive and the boat tach shown in The photo is not the same as a car tach. Car tachs start at the 7-8 o'clock position, not the 2-3. I think your tach is fine.

Originally Posted by duke12

Weeeel I will take it under advisement but this is a picture of the tachs on an original boat

dash2.JPG

And some instructions from the gauge supplier in Italy

Meter Layout.jpg

That's what I used for a guide and the Riva moniker is the right way up!


I'm so confused

So Am I! Though those Europeans like to do things a little differently 😂
mine are VDO, and they start from the 7 o’clock position.

Onto front cockpit. Roughing out only at this stage. Seeing where all of the bits fit. The colors to be painted onto the rubber later.
Back rest of back seat. A single screw under this rest will lock all front cockpit panels and dash in place.

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Side cushions
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Deck cushion.
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Sun baking cushion for the girls, I have seen two 1:10 scale topless girls available for this boat from Italy.
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Dry fit dash to side cushions. Prepare floor for covering. There will be a grating over the carpet in the door well.
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Fitting motor cooling tubes and inlets in front of rudders next.

If it doesn't have the two girls added, one blonde and one brunette, I'm unsubscribing from this thread.

Yeah I hear ya.
Some girls on the sun deck would be nice but I have spent too much on this little woodwork project that got out of hand so far.

These two girls seem too pricey and out of my league - especially for my cheap tastes!

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Would be a nice touch tho...

Of course if you want to make it more realistic you will then need a figure of a rich owner to go with the girls - but where will you find a 1/10 scale model of a pudgy old ugly guy with a bad toupe?