Thread: Best way to attach after market blade guard (so I don't cut myself again)

I think the floating option is too good not to try and make work. My current saw came with one of these type arrangements and I've never operated it without the guard, my old saw with the riving knife attached one I usually left off as it was very clumsy.
There are various after-market versions of these, maybe you could use some for inspiration, sounds as though something connected to the saw itself is the go as you position the saw anywhere then.
Here's one from Ctec for ideas.
Carbatec Deluxe Suva Guard System | Carbatec

sell it all and buy a sawstop

i think barra might be on the money with trying to adapt something to the side of the saw. Could to also attach the arm to the roof via a lazy suzan on a track/guide which would allow it to rotate and articulate which might help line things up easier

Originally Posted by barramonday

I think the floating option is too good not to try and make work. My current saw came with one of these type arrangements and I've never operated it without the guard, my old saw with the riving knife attached one I usually left off as it was very clumsy.
There are various after-market versions of these, maybe you could use some for inspiration, sounds as though something connected to the saw itself is the go as you position the saw anywhere then.
Here's one from Ctec for ideas.
Carbatec Deluxe Suva Guard System | Carbatec

If you decide to go ahead with a mounting system such as the Suva, consider what lengths you cross cut and if they are longer than the table is wide give careful consideration to the placement of the vertical support and guard hz arm design. No point designing another guard system that becomes a hassle to use or one that interferes with many of the operations you perform on your TS.

There is no one "perfect" design for a TS guard, so take a while to assess what cuts you make and what guard design "best" suits your preferences. I prefer the combined riving knife / blade guard support design and don't understand why TS manufacturers don't include or offer options for riving knife / blade guard supports to suit different saw blade kerf widths and for "dado style" rips or cross cuts with a single blade. We know why they don't - cost! Of course the options will also depend upon TS design and if the riving knife / blade guard support is fixed or rises and falls with the saw arbor.

Originally Posted by Mobyturns

If you decide to go ahead with a mounting system such as the Suva, consider what lengths you cross cut and if they are longer than the table is wide give careful consideration to the placement of the vertical support and guard hz arm design. No point designing another guard system that becomes a hassle to use or one that interferes with many of the operations you perform on your TS.

There is no one "perfect" design for a TS guard, so take a while to assess what cuts you make and what guard design "best" suits your preferences. I prefer the combined riving knife / blade guard support design and don't understand why TS manufacturers don't include or offer options for riving knife / blade guard supports to suit different saw blade kerf widths and for "dado style" rips or cross cuts with a single blade. We know why they don't - cost! Of course the options will also depend upon TS design and if the riving knife / blade guard support is fixed or rises and falls with the saw arbor.

you make some great points. I have the same overall concerns with Suva style guards. There’s one that’s made for the saw, but it has a full 52 inches clearance in the RHS of blade. It’s just way too big and doesn’t suit how I use and store my saw. I already cut my rails back to 32 inches for the same reason. I don’t often cut pieces wider than that, but there are times that I remove the fence to accomodate a wide crosscut. This suggests to me that a boom arm for a Suva guard may be problematic.

unless… I have the bracket made So that the post detaches with a quick release knob. In that case, I could thumb screw the dust hose off, release the post, and take the guard assembly off the saw to do whatever I need to do. That might be the way to go for Suva style.

How about utilising the blade insert and welding a support bracket for a guard? Is that a dumb idea, or could it work?

Something like this might work for me.
image_109643.jpg
Attached to the back fence rail. It wouldn’t be quick release, but I think I can live with fixed crosscut capacity. It’s only panels that would test the limit, and I have a track saw that I should use for those situations anyway.

it shouldn’t be too difficult to design something like this and have it fabricated. I don’t think I need the fancy spring loaded and counter weighted contraption. The shark guard is designed to sit higher at the back with the front resting on the table. The curve at the front catches the piece going under it, and the guard pivots from the rear mount.

it would be a simple and neat solution, that won’t be cumbersome to store…
that’s looking like the strongest option now.

Making 150mm DC ports for workshop machines

post no.74

Our dedicated member John Samuel, created this.

Given you move your saw I think your safest bet is to have the guard attached to the saw ie option 2.

However, even if the guard is going to be attached to the saw frame, there's nothing preventing you from attaching "extra" support from above. Because the X-Y position of the guard will be primarily determined by the saw frame support then the position of the OH support (Z) will not be as critical as it will provide vertical support even at an angle provided that angle is not too great.

"Extra" OH support could be via a wire and a couple of pulleys - One above the saw guard and one at the same height over next to a wall. Then run a thin flexible wire from the guard, up to the OH pulley - over to the pulley next to the wall and down the wall to a counter weight.

When you need to move the saw, unhook the OH support wire from the guard and the counterweight will lift the wire out of the way.

This is what I have used a couple of times. In my old shed I used a 2L cool drink bottle full of water as a counter weight. In my new shed I use lead weights. My TS is permanently located as its dust extraction is located under the floor. The guard is attached to a standard "dust picker' arm which is attached to the ceiling above the saw.

DustPickerx.jpg

The dust picker arm has been modified so that it can rotate the guard (left-right) out of the way (via 2 in the diagram) when I need to replace the blade which is quite often. The extra OH support, via a SS wire and pullets as per above, is used to adjusts the vertical position. To do this I loosen "1" so I can then move the guard vertically easily with one hand and the counter weight holds it in whatever position I move it to. for extra security I lock 1". "3" provides extra adjustment.


I realise you cant leave the guard and arm attached to the ceiling so for you the attachment mechanism has to be the saw frame but hopefully this may give you some ideas.

A few other pics
Celling attachment
The thick HDPE washed allows for a tight fit but doesnt prevent rotation of the whole arm
When I say the attaches to the ceiling it actually attaches too the red angle iron fram the holds a 1200 CFM ventilator which is attached to the celling.
Bracket2.jpg
If you look closely in the pic below, running thru the middle of the picture you can see the SS wire that provides the Vertical support.
ignore red narrow.
TSguard15.jpg

I like the concept Bob.
Am I being naive to think I won't need counter weighted adjustments?
I guess I can try without, and add it later.

The reason I think I won't need it is because the Shark Guard is not designed to hover. It's designed with the front resting on the table in front of the blade. So, the Z position can just be a knob that pinches the vertical post. Having a fixed position that is adjusted by a knob will get the job done. And when I don't want to use the guard, I can just push it up and cinch the knob, or take the whole thing off. I suppose it would be handy to be able to push it around and it keep it's place, but it doesn't seem essential to me.

Am I missing something?

Nope you’re not missing anything BUT once you try the no adjustment hover you’re unlikely to go back. Like you said try without and see how you go.

Mike Farrington made his own - albeit side mounted. Table Saw Overarm Dust Collection, Shop Built x 2 - YouTube

Regarding ceiling mounting, the first thing that comes to mind would be lying in a dentist's chair and the contraption they have for maneuvering their spot light into position. Maybe you could fashion something similar using RAM Mounts: RAM(R) Large Round Plate with Ball . Basically, friction ball joints which would give you the XYZ flexibility you require when the table saw isn't always in the exact same position when pulled out from the wall.

I've only had experience with the 1inch ram mounts which have great holding power, even when used on my kayak

Originally Posted by Kickback

Maybe you could fashion something similar using RAM Mounts: RAM(R) Large Round Plate with Ball . Basically, friction ball joints which would give you the XYZ flexibility you require when the table saw isn't always in the exact same position when pulled out from the wall.

I've only had experience with the 1inch ram mounts which have great holding power, even when used on my kayak

I've made few of these mounts using a 1" ball bearing welded to steel rods.

This was one I incorporated into a chainsaw stand that holds the saw at almost any angle while it's being worked on.
IMG_8958.jpg

Close up of the ball joint.
The ball is held between two plates with semi cylindrical inserts and the plates are held together by 3 bolts - 2 fixed and one is adjustable.
An 1/8 of a turn of the adjustable bolt locks/unlocks it. Holding power is very impressive.
Balljoint.JPG

X-Y movement is not problems by getting a wide range of vertical movement is not quite as easy as it seems.

Option 2 is very similar to what the old man used in the table saws we used to produce for sale. The bracket was attached to the steel plate that the motors and shafts were mounted on and the whole assembly pivoted from the rear when the blade was raised or lowered. Then just had 2 bolts to slide the slotted knife into and tighten. Easy and quick to remove when necessary.

Make a magnetic mount with a switch in the mount for easy placement and release.

I have been looking into an overhead mounting option - my current saw has no blade guard and no riving knife to attach to (planning to make throat plate splitters). it's a similar 12 inch design, MBS-300.
I was thinking overhead, so that it could be easily moved out of the way and doesn't take up valuable shed room beside the saw.

My current thinking: An articulating computer monitor arm mounted to the ceiling, a telescopic arm and then the blade guard attached to it. In theory this would allow full articulation and height raising lowering. But I have no doubt it's not as easy as it sounds in one sentence.

Did you get your telscoping SHS fabricated, or buy off the rack from someone? my Internet searches not been fruitful, I either get industrial suppliers or window cleaning poles...