Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 24 of 24
  1. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,785

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by FlaminGunz View Post
    Did you get your telscoping SHS fabricated, or buy off the rack from someone? my Internet searches not been fruitful, I either get industrial suppliers or window cleaning poles...
    Who are you asking here?

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    89

    Default

    Was directed to roger, from his pictures in the OP. But I'm open to suggestions!

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Brunswick VIC
    Age
    42
    Posts
    456

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by FlaminGunz View Post
    Did you get your telscoping SHS fabricated, or buy off the rack from someone? my Internet searches not been fruitful, I either get industrial suppliers or window cleaning poles...
    Yes, it took me ages to work it out too. I found a company in Melbourne who designed and manufactured an adaptor. It's a plastic cap that pushes into the end of a larger tube (I think I used 40x40), and reduces to fit the OD of a smaller tube (I think I used 32x32). The design is quite innovative. The cap is secured in the end of the large tube using a push cap, for which you need to drill a hole in the end of the tube at the right position and size. It locks the cap, with out fouling on the smaller tube which slides inside the bigger one. The adaptor makes it so that the small tube slides freely, and always in the centre, with rattling. To lock the tube in place (e.g. height adjustment for the blade guard), you've gotta rig up your own knob. I don't have a welding machine, so I just tapped a thread in the SHS, which held up okay, but if you overtighten, you'll thread it.

    It worked alright, but it would be a lot better to have the parts fabricated to spec. Which is probably what I'll do this time.

    I can't find the part online anymore, but it's this company Tricycle Developments
    Try calling them, they may not sell it online anymore, but I'll bet they will have a box of them still available.

    Good luck!

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Brunswick VIC
    Age
    42
    Posts
    456

    Default

    Looking at this again, maybe I should just buy the overhead arm that goes with the saw for Hafco.
    Main.jpg
    It doesn't look too cumbersome... Seems to be attached to a bracket hanging from the table extension bolts. And it's adjustable—so although it offers clearance for a full 52" rip cut, I should be able to push it in to the 32" inches of my rails, meaning it's not taking up any extra space to when storing.

    It might not be perfect, but it's way less hassle than getting something fabricated, which will probably cost the same or more.

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Brunswick VIC
    Age
    42
    Posts
    456

    Default

    Actually, maybe not.
    Talking to Hafco, their arm isn't really adjustable per se. It bolts onto the cabinet body and is supported by the bracket. There's a little bit of adjustability (probably 50-100mm), and it's designed to be adjusted once and then left on permanently. It's gonna be a bit big I think. I suppose I could try it, and if need be I could dock the arm down, and have it welded up at the length I want...

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,785

    Default

    I've used the HAFCO guard on the mens shed saw and apart from it being a little wobbly it's definitely better than nothing.
    For some cuts I've seen users clamp a piece of wood between the arms for added rigidity
    When the guard is down over the bade the vision is pretty poor - remaking the whole guard in acrylic or better still polycarbonate would be teh go.
    The height and sideways adjustment (see arrows on diagram) are not too bad.
    There's also a quick removal screw at "c" on the picture.

    Screw "a" in the picture enables the guard to be removed but maybe it would be better if it was at "b"
    Id certainly suggest getting one and trying it out.

    OHDustarm.jpg

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Brunswick VIC
    Age
    42
    Posts
    456

    Default

    Ok, that might work. At C, does it allow the whole assembly to be taken off the saw?
    if so, i think it’ll work for me. It must be that there’s a plate and bracket attached to the saw which houses the post, which is supported by bracket at C. That would make sense.

    Sounds like the flex/wobble is in the arm itself. Looks like it’s probably 20x20 SHS. That might not be ideal, since I will put a shark guard on the end, and this will possible mode around a bit as piece is pushed into the front…

    worth a try, but at $500 it will sting slightly if it doesn’t meet the need.

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,785

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rogerwilco View Post
    Ok, that might work. At C, does it allow the whole assembly to be taken off the saw?
    I've not done it but it does look like it

    Sounds like the flex/wobble is in the arm itself. Looks like it’s probably 20x20 SHS. That might not be ideal, since I will put a shark guard on the end, and this will possible mode around a bit as piece is pushed into the front…
    If this arm/guard was additionally supported from the ceiling it would reduce the wobble.

    . . .worth a try, but at $500 it will sting slightly if it doesn’t meet the need.
    Ouch - is it that much?
    My dust picker arm with large hood cost about $75 but I cant see it for sale anywhere, and that was 17 years ago.

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Brunswick VIC
    Age
    42
    Posts
    456

    Default

    Right, this is sorted.

    I bought the Hafco arm. It's fine. Plenty rigid enough for pieces to slide freely under my guard with no issues. I think the guard is a little bit too far back right now, but that's an easy adjustment that I can do later. Also need to cable tie the dust host... Later.

    I had to modify the hanger to suit my Shark Guard. Pretty simple. The stock guard is enormous because it accommodates 12 inch blade at 45 degrees. That seems like a rare cut! The Shark Guard is much more compact and tidy. And the nice thing is, I can swap it in a minute or two if I'm doing angled cuts.

    I'm so, so glad to have a permanently fixed blade guard. Much better.
    IMG_1072+Large.jpeg
    IMG_1073+Large.jpeg

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Similar Threads

  1. joining a blade guard
    By Tiger in forum HAND TOOLS - POWERED
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 21st February 2011, 06:32 PM
  2. MBS 300 blade guard
    By pellcorp in forum TABLE SAWS & COMBINATIONS
    Replies: 23
    Last Post: 17th October 2010, 06:25 PM
  3. .Saw blade guard on WC2000
    By pommyphil in forum TRITON / GMC
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 26th October 2008, 04:18 PM
  4. Better blade guard for TS10HB
    By Waldo in forum TABLE SAWS & COMBINATIONS
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 22nd September 2008, 08:51 PM
  5. Replacement Blade Guard
    By Bids in forum HAND TOOLS - POWERED
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 1st September 2006, 12:51 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •