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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
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    Australia
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    14

    Default Attaching handrail to a decking

    Hi,
    I want to attach a handrail to the decking I am building.

    The decking is not over 1m high so no need other than I want to and will safer for the grand kids.

    I had initially not planned to have one and have cut the posts out already

    I was wandering if I could attach the handrail posts to the bearer and side boards or should i just redo the posts to go through the decking for the had rail.

    I would be interested in seeing what other people have done as well


    Thanks for any help,
    Richard

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
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    Oberon, NSW
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    Default

    I had initially not planned to have one and have cut the posts out already
    Whoops!

    If the deck is more than 900mm off the ground, then a hand-rail is a legal requirement. Having the posts one contiguous length is, of course, the best & strongest method but I guess you already know that.

    Next best would be to bolt new posts to the sides of the existing stumps. I'd try to have at least a 250mm overlap, using a pair of coach bolts spaced about 150mm apart vertically.

    I really do not recommend bolting the posts to the bearers/joists, as they're typically only 90-120mm high, which isn't enough to ensure the post is held rigidly vertical. You don't want a "wobbly" handrail and it will fail any safety inspection, as someone falling against the hand-rail makes for significant leverage.

    My third choice would be to run another rail about 100mm underneath the outside-most bearer, so you can bolt the rail through both the bearer and this second rail. This can actually work well, but starts getting expensive in terms of extra materials.
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Australia
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    14

    Default

    [QUOTE=Skew ChiDAMN!!;1040926]Whoops!

    If the deck is more than 900mm off the ground, then a hand-rail is a legal requirement. Having the posts one contiguous length is, of course, the best & strongest method but I guess you already know that.

    Next best would be to bolt new posts to the sides of the existing stumps. I'd try to have at least a 250mm overlap, using a pair of coach bolts spaced about 150mm apart vertically.

    I really do not recommend bolting the posts to the bearers/joists, as they're typically only 90-120mm high, which isn't enough to ensure the post is held rigidly vertical. You don't want a "wobbly" handrail and it will fail any safety inspection, as someone falling against the hand-rail makes for significant leverage.


    Skew,
    I have been looking around and found a design where they bolted the posts to the bearer/fascia. Looks OK but I have concerns over stability as you have pointed out as well.

    I have not cemented the posts in and reckon I may just chalk it up to yet another lesson and go for the full posts. I wanted to do this at the beginning but got vetoed by a higher authority who has changed there mind now.

    I may be able to use the cut posts in other places - I hope. Apart form the cost it is the pain having to go back to the saw mill and get more wood and then prepare it. At worst i will have lost one 3.6m pole I have already been back a few times getting things I forgot.

    Thanks for your comments,
    Richard

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Kalamunda, WA
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    52
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    1,989

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by richtara View Post
    I have not cemented the posts in and reckon I may just chalk it up to yet another lesson and go for the full posts. I wanted to do this at the beginning but got vetoed by a higher authority who has changed there mind now.
    This is the best option otherwise bolt other posts to the front or alongside the cut off ones.

    I have cut off posts as well and am planning to mill some timber tomorrow to do mine. I am making wedge shaped posts that bolt to the front of the exiting stump posts and sit up over the deck at the same time. Bit difficult to describe but I will post some pics as soon as I have cut one.

  6. #5
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    Sep 2009
    Location
    Australia
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    Default

    Burnsey,
    I guess it is all experience. I usually cut something short and have to get a whoel new post or board.

    This time I was being very careful measuring many times before cutting. I did not count on a design change mid stream - but it is a good one and worth doing right.

    I have one more questions for any one.

    I am using treated pine. In a previous project I bought a can of preservative but never used it - just painted the cut ends. The trouble with this stuff is you are supposed to leave it for two days before painting - I am just wandering do people use it or just rely on a good paint.

    Thanks again
    Richard

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    Dundowran Beach
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    19,922

    Thumbs up

    Very wise to be safe and overbuild rather than run any risks.

    Friends of ours had a deck about 4M off the ground. Everything about the posts and railings was flimsy. No proper anchorages for the posts, simply bolted (ONE bolt ) and NAILED to the beare and facia. rails were nailed to the outside of the posts!!

    One night they had a party and a friend of the daughter went through the rail. Ambulance, etc,etc. Not a pretty sight.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
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    Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by artme View Post
    Very wise to be safe and overbuild rather than run any risks.

    Friends of ours had a deck about 4M off the ground. Everything about the posts and railings was flimsy. No proper anchorages for the posts, simply bolted (ONE bolt ) and NAILED to the beare and facia. rails were nailed to the outside of the posts!!

    One night they had a party and a friend of the daughter went through the rail. Ambulance, etc,etc. Not a pretty sight.
    Hi,
    My decking isn't that high but I will have little grand children on it. I normally build thing like brick sh$%% houses so they don't fall down.

    The handrail has come or returned as an after thought when my son raised the issue. I was concerned over the option mentioned above and wanted to be sure as even though it is going to mess me around now and cost some extra dollars for more posts it would have been a lot harder to do later. I at least have me measurements for the bottom part of the posts sorted out -. I have to build a couple of stais which I have not sourced yet so will use it one way or another, blockings if nothing else.

    To risk something happening like you mentioned is just not worth it..

    Richard

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
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    Kalamunda, WA
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    Default

    Richard, here are some pictures of mine if you could not understand my description. Just sitting in place at the moment, I need to remove the facia boards before bolting them on. They are cut out of 200 x 75 hardwood and are rather heavy


  10. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    47
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    187

    Default

    Had to do a simliar thing on a deck a few years ago. Made up some posts out of 50mm gal pipe with a 100 x 100 x 5mm angle iron bottom plate welded to it. That way we could bolt it from the top and the sides. Nice timber handrail bolted to the top, instead of using stainless wire as the rails, the owner was a sparky and had a heap of gal wire used for catiniary wires on commercial jobs. Came up a treat.

    Not sure if this is the look your after, but it is an option.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Australia
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Burnsy View Post
    Richard, here are some pictures of mine if you could not understand my description. Just sitting in place at the moment, I need to remove the facia boards before bolting them on. They are cut out of 200 x 75 hardwood and are rather heavy
    Burnsey,
    Glad you posted the pics I had the toatally opposite idea to what you did


    Richard

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