Thread: Attaching solid panel backer in a sideboard, accomodating for wood movement

Did you understand my last drawing ?

Originally Posted by auscab

Like this .
The 6.35 looks thin but if the frame is glued in place It’l be stronger . Never to come out though .


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That would work if your proposed back frame was left solid (e.g. no rebate) and sat into a full rebate on the carcase, like you described earlier, but that half lap type joint you have drawn could shrink and while you wouldn't see daylight because of the half lap it would still not be good practice, you would then need to introduce a bead on the inside of the cabinet to hide any shrinkage.

Basically if your fitting it like that it should be veneered Ply . Blackwood veneered or what ever . In time your going to regret it otherwise.

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If its paneled as one or three panels It'd look something like these.

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Flat panels on one side and beveled on the other. Roughly drawn both ways.

Its the way the best stuff was always done except you have a smaller rebate to fit it to .
The 19mm / 3/4" thick frame would normally sit right in a rebate 19mm deep. Nailed screwed or glued in .

Originally Posted by Camelot

That would work if your proposed back frame was left solid (e.g. no rebate) and sat into a full rebate on the carcase, like you described earlier, but that half lap type joint you have drawn could shrink and while you wouldn't see daylight because of the half lap it would still not be good practice, you would then need to introduce a bead on the inside of the cabinet to hide any shrinkage.

Its the best solution and the rails and stiles are small which is the whole idea behind this ancient design . The frame will move with the carcase which will be minimal and the free floating panels will do there own thing as planned.
No need for a bead but if he likes one put one on around the outside edge.

A bead on the inside ?? Who's going to be down on their hands and knees looking for movement any way .

"A bead on the inside ?? Who's going to be down on their hands and knees looking for movement any way."

I always look at how things are built don't you?

Originally Posted by rogerwilco

Thanks Rob. I appreciate your considered reply.
Agree. I shoulda considered this properly earlier, but this detail did slip through.

All good . I wanted to try and explain what I meant anyway . Then came back to read this . I was doing it on my phone before in the workshop and wanted to get in on the computer to finish it off.

Originally Posted by rogerwilco

Unfortunately, the rebate is only 11mm in depth. A little bit small for frame and panel construction I think. I did consider F&P as an option earlier on, but there's been a big priority on the removal of detail as a general design approach, and I felt that frame and panel was be more of a maximalist approach. Same reason why I steered away from shiplap. So, I'd thought I would use a ply panel. Then I realised that if I wanted to buy a manufactured panel, I can't cover the span in 1 piece (1200 x 600 panels in blackwood veneer on birch). So I'd either have to have a custom panel made ($$$, and don't want to wait), or shop saw my own veneers and press onto a substrate of my choice. While that's a nice idea, and something I do want to learn, I don't have the equipment or time to go that option. That's how I came to the current solution of a solid panel using the same timber as the case.

Yep.
Id be buying some sliced veneer to press for that if I was doing it .

Originally Posted by rogerwilco

I'm not super experienced, but my feeling is that 440 total width, the wood movement is probably going be alright.
I figure that I'll roll with the current plan (brad nails in strategic places), and if I strike a problem later, I can either repair it, or replace it with a different solution.
Either way, it should prove to be a good learning experience!

Yeah its not a huge expanse. And out of sight out of mind. Deal with it in the future if you feel like it.

If you finish the back both sides before fitting it will help . Hiding the nails in the quirk of the bead may look good but I don't think it will help things if it shifts at all .

Rob

It’s worked out pretty good.
Thanks Chief Tiff for the idea, the shadow line really hide the expansion gap. Good show!
thanks to everyone else also for your great ideas.
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