Thread: Attaching a solid timber edge onto veneer

Just done something similar on 2 projects. First one was my Dual Purpose Mobile Tool Stand, where I just glued 12mm strips of hardwood to the edge of the 32mm MDF benchtop material. Just clamped the slightly oversize strips and then used flush-trim router bit to remove excess from both top and bottom.

See: http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...518#post468518

The second one is a new router table, where I put hardwood strips around the 32 mm particle board top. Because the particle board is a much coarser texture I decided to rout a 9.5mm groove right around the edge of the top and then rebated the edge strips to create a male tongue that fit in the groove. Again, just glued and clamped, then flush-trimmed both sides. Looks very neat.

I have tried the biscuit method before, and it works, but on the thinner 12mm edges you can't use it. Also I feel that biscuits are not accurate enough for edge applications.

Biscuits and glue is a tried and true method of fixing timber to veneered particle/MDF board. Go for it....make sure you post it.

We've done both biscuit and PVA & just plain PVA at work. Both methods need to be clamped overnight time permitting.

I've also done it using Contact Adhesive, this was sprayed onto both surfaces an using a rubber mallet it was then hit to make sure there was no air bubbles left and no areas were left apart. It was contacted like this as time is always precious in a workshop. I then used a trimmer to flush the excess off before sanding carefully so as not to go through the veneer.

This isn't the contact adhesive you buy in a spray can from your art shop, it comes in 20L drums and is usually sprayed on using an paint spray gun.

I'm with George - if the board's 18mm plus 2x0.6mm veneer ~19mm thick, cut strips off a 19mm thick by whatever width board so you get 19mm (D2S) thick by about 22mm or so wide laths.

Glue the surfaced face of the solid timber lipping to the edge of the particleboard, giving you a 19mm wide lipping, with about 1.5mm rough sawn overhang both sides. As George said, let the glue cure overnight if possible. Then come along with a sharp hand plane set finely and knock the overhang off the lipping. Problem solved and job finished.

CHeers,

eddie

(ps: biscuits and glue or just glue is fine, depends on how much abuse the lipping will take.)

there are all sorts of fancy ways to attach egding to board products.
FWW did an extensive article a few years ago.
v groove the edge.
machined tounge & grove
splines
biscuits
brads
dowels
whatever

but "but gluing" with a good pva works as well as any..... if you want to add biscuits it cant hurt.
I usulay whack some brads in, but then you have holes to fill.

one thing I strongly recommend is that you clamp down well over the whole length while the glue goes off.

cheers

I'm currently working on a semi-eliptical table at college at the moment. The top is 18mm veneered board, the top has four straight sides which lipping is attached using a 2 part glue and biscuits. It was allowed to cure overnight. The lipping is 95mm wide by 22mm thick, today I used a no. 6 hand plane to take the lipping down to the same thickness as the Veneer board. Tomorrow I am going to bandsaw the half elipse so where the joins are will be about 53-55mm. After bandsawing, the elipse is finninhed off on the disc sander then routered.

So, a lipping can be any size and attached in many different ways. I have a horizontal borer that does perfect dowel holes. Biscuits can be done using a biscuit joiner or a router table as can a spline. A router table can also do the "V" groove or tounge and groove that Soundman mentioned.

Do which ever is best for the job you are doing and which ever suits your skill level the best as well.

For edging, I've used biscuits and PVA time and time again.

The picture below is done that exact same way. Even with the curves I've had no problems with the glue letting go.

I generally leave the edging 1/2mm proud and plane the excess carefully. Not too hard if you are patient.

But like the guys have said, there are many ways to skin a cat.

If you can work out how to make one, a bowclamp looks like the bees-knees for even clamping of edges and you should need fewer clamps.

BobL,
Saw these clamps on another forum and this thread showd up. Perhaps you could convince a retailer that sells over the net thats close by etc. to import a container load. Recon they'd sell although at USD$22 in the states by the time they got here might be a bit pricey. They look like a great way to save on clamps space