Thread: Aussie Wood Conversions??

105x45 would be the closest DAR size available. Also 90x45. Depends on the type of timber.
Les

Don't quote me, cause I'm just a newbie, but I think even the ol' 2x4s weren't really 2x4. That is the measurement they start out as green before they are shoved throuhg the finishing plane or something.

Originally Posted by tea lady

Don't quote me, cause I'm just a newbie, but I think even the ol' 2x4s weren't really 2x4. That is the measurement they start out as green before they are shoved throuhg the finishing plane or something.

2" x 4" is a "nominal thickness", whatever that means. A 2 x 4 will actually measure 1 1/2" (38mm) X 3 1/2" (89mm).

would be treated pine well that is what ill make it out of.
So people are saying i would still be out in my measurements or would it equal out ?

Originally Posted by Blazk

would be treated pine well that is what ill make it out of.
So people are saying i would still be out in my measurements or would it equal out ?

Without seeing the plans, I couldn't say for sure.

What do you Aussies use for interior wall framing? That's probably what the plans are calling for.

Originally Posted by bat

2" x 4" is a "nominal thickness", whatever that means. A 2 x 4 will actually measure 1 1/2" (38mm) X 3 1/2" (89mm).

I think you will find that they stock 90x45 (4x2) or 90x35 (4x1 1/2), also 70x45 (3x2) and 70x35 (3x1 1/2)

The plan is as follows.
http://users.tpg.com.au/blazk/files/benchplan.jpg

Blazk, there's been a fair bit of general advice so far but nothing really definitive, so here goes.

1 inch = 25.4mm close enough, for mental arithmetic use 25mm.

1 foot = 12 inches = 300mm roughly for mental arithmetic.

40 inches = 1000mm = 1m for mental arithmetic
(actually 39.37 inches = 1 m)

Sheet sizes

6 x 4 (foot) is approx 1800 x 1200 mm
8 x 4 (foot) is approx 2400 x 1200 mm

Thicknesses


1/8th in roughly 3mm undersized
1/8th in roughly 4mm oversized
3/16th in roughly 5mm oversized
1/4 in roughly 6mm undersized
5/16th in very close to 8mm
3/8th in roughly 9mm undersized
1/2 in roughly 12mm undersized
5/8th in very close to 16mm
3/4 in very close to 19mm
1 in roughly 25mm undersized
11/4in roughly 32mm oversized
11/2 in roughly 38mm undersized
2 in roughly 50mm undersized
3 in roughly 76mm undersized
4 in roughly 102mm undersized.

As for errors accumulating, look closely at you plan and local sizing and rework the thing to suit whats available. This is fairly common practice when someones wants to built item X from materials that are on hand or in the scrap box, or at the recycling yard, whether they are doing it in metric or imperial measure. Looks like you have a sheet top, so our sheet size will determine the overall size. Then find your best equivalent for leg material, allow for that, and apportion the rest of the length for overhangs, drawer frames, and dividers to suit what is available. It's not as easy as simply following a prepared cut list, but it is possible and common amongst the space handicapped or ardent recyclers.

Big Shed is correct.

In Australia, what americans call "2 x 4" we used to call 4 x 2 and since going metric, we now call it 90mm x 45mm and yes it is smaller.

If your timber then has to be dressed all round (DAR) then the american 2 x 4 will be smaller again as will your 90 x 45 ! If you dressed it yourself you MAY be able to get a DAR size of 85 x 40. You should make a trip to Bunnings with your tape measure and check out the sizes available. You will find pine studs and mesmate which may even be laminated (you could go to furniture grade vic ash/ tassie oak but it will cost you and arm and a leg and then some!) Next task will be to modify your plan to allow for these different sizes.

Have you tried looking for a plan already in metric?

Good luck,

Chipman

Originally Posted by Chipman

Big Shed is correct.

In Australia, what americans call "2 x 4" we used to call 4 x 2 and since going metric, we now call it 90mm x 45mm and yes it is smaller.

If your timber then has to be dressed all round (DAR) then the american 2 x 4 will be smaller again as will your 90 x 45 ! If you dressed it yourself you MAY be able to get a DAR size of 85 x 40. You should make a trip to Bunnings with your tape measure and check out the sizes available. You will find pine studs and mesmate which may even be laminated (you could go to furniture grade vic ash/ tassie oak but it will cost you and arm and a leg and then some!) Next task will be to modify your plan to allow for these different sizes.

Have you tried looking for a plan already in metric?

Good luck,

Chipman

Sorry, but 90x45 is for DAR so doesn't need to be dressed further, that is for Pinus Radiata. Here in Vic Bunnies also stock KD (kiln dried) Hardwood, mainly Tassie Oak and similar species. This is available in 100x50 rough sawn, dressed (DAR) this would also come out to 90x45
.

mm gonna have to remake the plans as it was from shopnotes magazine, so don't think i can get it in metric. Ill modify this one i think...see how it goes..thanks for all the conversions it will help me alot!

Im more surprised your local Mitre10 doesnt stock 4x2 or more commonly 90x45, as that is probably one of the most common size used in framing.

But if you have to go with 3x2 (70x45) then yes you do need to adjust your measurements with that plan, but only by two pieces. Looking at the plan, to me you need to adjust pieces C and E as they are the only ones that sit in between the rails and styles to make the rebate. From my calculations just extend them 2 inches.

But if it were me I would go some place else where they stock 4x2.

Good luck with your bench.

Thanks everyone that has taken the time to help me. Mitre10 did have 70x45 so i think ill go and check good old bunnies before i start. Thanks malb for those measurements as well very helpful.

In my own experience, neither Mitre 10 or Bunnings generally have enough knowledge and care to sell you decent timber anyway, so I'd look up some local timber yards and go and talk to someone who actually knows a bit about wood. Often they'll have something that will do you a good job, so you can rework your plan to suit. You'll generally end up with better quality wood that way.