Thread: cutting threaded rod cleanly?

Angle grinder, then lightly chamfer the end on a belt sander or bench grinder

Originally Posted by woodPixel

I'm making a nice big pile of spool clamps for the various "box like" glue ups I do... These things are used on guitar bodies and would work well for the bulk carts and MDF boxes I make.

My question is (without an answer of "a hack saw") what is the best way to cleanly cut metal rod into segments? I'm hoping to get nice clean straight cuts that don't mangle the thread.

I'm not a metalworker.

Initially, there will be 30 segments cut, each of either 200mm or 330mm, made from M6 stainless black 306 rod. It's nicely made stuff.

Ill be using the new Woodwhisperer wood taps to do the spool ends. Those taps are amazing. I bought the full metric set and the 3-pack of imperials. Highly recommended.

Even bolt cutters and then the grinder for a chamfer ..



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

For these sorts of cuts I use a thin kerf cut-off wheel mounted in a custom made small table saw like arrangement - it has a mitre slide enabling nice straight cuts.

Then to remove the bur I put this size stock into a electric drill and then while running the drill apply the cut end of the rod to a fine belt on a belt sander. While doing this rotate the rod through about 60º you will get a nicely domed top with the burr removed.

The other way to get a straight cut would be to use a horizontal metal cutting Bandsaw.

One of these is on my Christmas Wish List: L096 | RM-48 Radius Master Pedestal Belt Grinder / Linisher - Series 2 | For Sale Sydney Brisbane Melbourne Perth | Buy Workshop Equipment & Machinery online at machineryhouse.com.au

I used a friend's one recently, possibly the most expensive mistake I have ever made. Now I need one.

Cheeres

Doug

WP

If you are talking about maintaining the integrity of the thread so that you can apply a nut, the easiest way is to place the nut on the thread before you cut the rod. this way you can wind the nut off and in so doing "correct" any distortion of the thread. You can also perform chamfering of the end first and then wind off the nut with the same correctional effect.

I am talking about using the standard nut, but an even better method is to use a cheap die nut of the correct thread. It can be the cheapest you can find as there is very little demand compared to cutting a brand new thread on a piece of solid bar.

Regards
Paul

This is all good advice. I've an angle grinder (it's a bit ordinary), but it has the arbortec grinding/shaping head on it! Guess it needs to be swapped off for this job

So, I think I'll bastardise everyone's advice and cut it with a good cut off wheel (acquire!) and do BobLs "rod in a drill" trick on the 48" linisher. I just happen to have a few 2" wide belts for metal bought from TSPM from when I *thought* I might get into knives (no time!)... But perhaps run the drill in reverse?

the nut on before cutting sounds a treat, plus the 60 degree dome roundover too. The neatness appeals.

its starting to look like a plan! Thanks dudes.

I'll publish some pictures if I survive the procedure....

Doug3030, I've a mate called Ewan of 84 Engineering who makes those radius grinder things. They are called "NOOb Grinders" by knife makers.

They come with all sorts of excellent attachments. He sells them like hot cakes. Apparently he's quite famous, but to me he's a bloke I help out with boxes and wood jobs (turning,etc).

i bought some of the belts thinking I'd use the Jet 48" linisher and make up a jig for the purpose of getting my chisels sorted out.

On the use of those belt grinders, they are spectacular machines. Knife blokes kit them out with VFDs, a huge array of replaceable wheel diameters, platforms/rests and magnetic jigs.

A work of art and highly useful.

It did cross my mind to sharpen my lathe tools using one!!!!!

WoodPixel,

"...Ill be using the new Woodwhisperer wood taps to do the spool ends. Those taps are amazing. I bought the full metric set and the 3-pack of imperials. Highly recommended...

I hope this is not a metalwork question !! What sort of dyes would I have to use to thread brass rods to match the Woodwhisperer's taps?

Yvan

Yvan, the taps are M series metric and imperial sizes in coarse.

$5 dies that make those treads would work perfectly.

The art of these things lies in the tap, not the die. These are a few videos I watched before buying them showing use, strength and ideas.

Ill be be buying a spare kit... Now to work out how to reduce postage!

If you orient the angle between the rod and the belt so the belt always work towards the point you won't get a burr. I used to do Paul's thing of putting a nut on the thread before doing this but found it was not needed even when working with fine and small threads on M3 and M2.5 bolts/rod

One other thing, a three corner file. Normal threads (As opposed to Acme Threads) have a 60° angle between them. (Finally a use for √3.) The file can easily be used to clean up any damaged threads.

If you're happy to do it by hand buy a thread file. Amazing how many times they come in handy. As an aside what the hell is 306 grade stainless steel?

I wouldn't be using any of the austenitic stainless steels for this job, they're too soft and the threads bind up.

Originally Posted by aldav

As an aside what the hell is 306 grade stainless steel?

Its 304 steel when you arent a metal dude and know next to nothing about what you are typing