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  1. #46
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    nsw
    Age
    52
    Posts
    595

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    Hi Acejas,

    answers to your questions are:

    The yellow gauge - what model is it? - is this the vacuum controller (or just gauge)?
    The yellow gauge is a vacuum controller. I've set high/low points on it, and it is wired into the control box (answer to next question), and it controls the auto-cycling of the system. It sends a voltage to a relay when the vacuum drops below the 'low' value, and cuts the voltage when it reaches the 'high' value, and yes it displays the current vacuum at all times.
    I bought it off eBay for $36.00 USD. The ad described it as

    "
    Digital Pressure Switch, 0 to -0.1Mpa Air Negative Vacuum, 240VAC G1/4 0.5%FS "

    The grey box with 71.1 - 84.6 - whats in there?
    A 3-way 240V rotary switch, terminal blocks for all the wiring, and a 240V relay

    In one of your photos you show to controllers...not sure which one is which
    If you are referring to the photo with the black/blue solenoid on the left, and the fawn coloured "Airtac" solenoid on the right, then they are as follows:
    The right one is a cheap Chinese Airtac 3/2 solenoid that didn't end up working as it is pilot operated and relies on positive air pressure for initial actuation. Given you are running a venturi setup, that would work for you as you can bleed your compressed air line onto that to give the pilot enough pressure for actuation.

    In an all-vacuum setup like mine it wouldn't work, so I needed to go with a MAC valve (the blue/black one on the left). The mac valve doesn't require positive air pressure for actuation, so is suitable for a vacuum setup (but costs $$$ compared to the Airtac one).

    I forgot to metion: The purpose of the 3-way rotary switch is so that I can bypass the vacuum controller if I want. It is wired so the rotary switch has 3 positions -
    '0' = off (cuts power from the power point to the system)
    '1' = 'auto-cycling' (power goes via vacuum controller and the system cycles on/off between high/low as described above)
    '2' = bypass vacuum controller - constant power sent to relay so vacuum pump runs constantly.

    For 99% of usage it is on '1' and cycles as it needs to, but if using for vacuum clamping on the lathe, you don't want the system to cycle, lest the vacuum pressure drop too low and you end up with the rotating timber leaving the lathe and entering your face at a decent speed. In that setup it is safer to have continual vacuum pressure, and control it via a bleed valve on the air line. If you don't plan on needing the pump running constantly then a 2-way switch ON/OFF would be sufficient (and significantly cheaper).
    Last edited by TimberNut; 21st February 2021 at 09:09 AM. Reason: adding info

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  3. #47
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Posts
    28

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    Hey Timbernut
    Thanks heaps for all the info. The vacuum controller you shown has confirmed what I was after - thank you. Now I know how you feel regarding at looking at so much info from knowing nothing lol.
    I could be wrong but I thought I would need the MAC one - need to do more research - I was following Joes workshop.

    Im going the 24v DC route but may change my mind to 240v. Reason being is again I followed joes instructions and I have a few high amp 24v PSU's as well as relays.
    Ill defintely put a post up when completed (or started lol) My post may help others like your post did.

    The other reason I'm going the vebturi /compressed air is Ive bought a JLC10 ( I know its small but all I need IF I order correct parts) and with under $200 not much will be lost if it fails - keep tuned (in the next 6 months lol)

  4. #48
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    nsw
    Age
    52
    Posts
    595

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    I'm glad the info helps. It sure is a lot to process, but if it helps you iron out your idea before committing $$ then that was my aim putting as much detail as I have. There are so many ways to go about it, all at different cost points. I still marvel at just how well my system works, and don't for one second begrudge the money I spent. I'd recommend every woodworker has some form of vacuum clamping setup.
    Post a link on this thread, to your build when you get it underway, as I know a lot of interested people have been reviewing all the detail here, and if you go about it a different way, a link from here to your build will give them more info (to drown in ) I mean, to read and make their own minds up which way to go about their builds.

    Re the mac valve - if you're just going to switch a negative pressure line, then yes, you will need to go with the mac valve, as any pilot actuated solenoid relies on positive pressure for the initial movement of the gates. Given you have access to a positive pressure line from the compressor you could do it with a combination of pneumatic solenoids, but you'll find it a lot easier to just get a mac valve and move on. BUT they are quite expensive, so make sure you settle on your switched voltage first (24v or 240v) so you know which mac valve to buy. I went the 240v route, and used a relay on the compressor as I wasn't sure what startup current there would be and if it would flow back through the vacuum controller and fry it, but looking at it now, I'm 99% sure the relay adds unnecessary complexity. But it didn't cost much, so I'm happy to have used it for extra peace of mind.

    BTW my standing offer remains to any Sydney-based woodworker investigating these builds - I'm more than happy for woodworkers to come over and check my build out (and bore them to death with endless chatter about vacuum pump builds.......). Sometimes seeing these things in the flesh can help people determine if they are the right solution for them.

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