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3rd May 2015, 11:08 PM #1Member
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Avoiding joint rot in new H3 treated pine structure
Hi all,
I've just constructed a large bin tidy from H3 treated pine to be situated in our garden (2.6 w x 1.4 h x 1.4 d). This is my first external project (I usually make indoor furniture) and living in a very wet Sydney suburb, am concerned about getting the treatment right.
I am naive about such things and assumed that H3 meant long outdoor life. Now a few web searches later and I'm slightly better informed and realise I need to actually do something more. Currently the structure is dry and sitting out of the weather and my plan was to wait for a string of sunny days (fingers crossed, later this week) and take it outside and spray it with Eco Wood Oil decking oil before mounting it outside on its base.
In addition, I've been told by a builder friend that I should focus on the diagonal bracing which will draw water into the joints and promote rot over time.
So my question is - given I am planning to oil and not paint, how, if at all should I treat the joints? I have done some searching but haven't found an approach that appears to be sufficiently specific.
Any advice gratefully received.
Many thanks and my humble apologies for asking what is clearly a schoolboy question,
David
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4th May 2015, 04:23 AM #2GOLD MEMBER
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It may be a bit late now, but you should go to the trade area of your timber supplier and find a bottle of the super toxic paint on rot & termite treatment that is (or at least was) sold for painting onto the cut ends of treated timber. You paint this on to the cut ends and inside all the joints - rubber gloves, el cheapo 50mm or so paint brush etc. - the lot I got years ago made 2 litres which is stored in the traditional softdrink bottle behind the shelves together with the contaminated brush.
So far the outdoor bench I made from 2x H3 timber has lasted 15+ years but the core of the timber has really started to rot now & I should replace it - the cut ends and joints all seem sound still. That is the main problem with 'treated' timber in larger sections - the 'treatment' only penetrates at most 20mm and I suspect thinner sections are not subject to the long or high pressure treatment that the larger pieces are so the skin or preserved wood is thinner.
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4th May 2015, 05:42 PM #3Member
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Many thanks for your response. I've done some more research and checked my shed and found an almost new can of Enseal Clear Timber preservative, left over from a job done by a builder to replace a ground support post on our house. A bit of reading and it happens to be the perfect thing for these reasons:
- penetrates treated softwoods deeply (I've used H3 treated pine, max thickness 35mm),
- should last for many years (15+??) in our conditions,
- can be oiled over.
So job done and with luck, Sydney will have a few consecutive sunny days and I can oil this monstrosity and put it to use!
Cheers and thanks,
David
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