Thread: Bandsaw help blade guides and general set-up for new user MJ343B

I see only three possible problems.

• The top back bearing needs replacing. You really don't want those grooves worn into the rim even if it does spin freely. (I reckon it likely doesn't.)
• The top side bearings should - ideally - be directly opposed. Is there allowance in the 'clamps' to line them up?
• They don't look to be the easiest things in the world to adjust.

So long as there's meat left on the bottom side-blocks and all the bearings rotate freely, it should work fine. Just not elegantly.

If the top side bearings are siezed, you can always just glue wooden disks onto the inside faces and use them as friction blocks, too. (Same function as the bottom side blocks.)

Anyone know of any options of a complete replacement bearing guide "kit" to suit?

Firstly, thanks for taking the time to help out.

You are correct adjustment is limited and all bearings need replacing.
Am I right in thinking the back bearings are facing the wrong way around though? Others I have seen the bearings are facing front to back, not side to side like this.

Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!

I see only three possible problems.

• The top back bearing needs replacing. You really don't want those grooves worn into the rim even if it does spin freely. (I reckon it likely doesn't.)
• The top side bearings should - ideally - be directly opposed. Is there allowance in the 'clamps' to line them up?
• They don't look to be the easiest things in the world to adjust.

So long as there's meat left on the bottom side-blocks and all the bearings rotate freely, it should work fine. Just not elegantly.

If the top side bearings are siezed, you can always just glue wooden disks onto the inside faces and use them as friction blocks, too. (Same function as the bottom side blocks.)

I'm no expert but iv'e never seen bearing guides run that way? to me they should all be rolling with the blade.

One thing i can tell you for sure is get a carbide tipped blade

There's nothing wrong with the way that bearing is mounted.

Mine - and many others - are exactly the same orientation, just in a commercially made mount.

Under normal workloads the blade should only lightly touch the back bearing, it's only if you are 'forcing the cut' (probably due to persisting with a blunt blade) that the orientation would make a difference. (I'm talking your typical 1/2" or bigger blade here. Smaller blades will press more heavily, as you they run under less tension. ALWAYS cut with your blade under good tension!)

A bearing mounted that way should be offset to the blade so that it can rotate if need be but yours seems to have sufficient offset that it shouldn't be a problem.

FWIW, the grooves worn into the rim of your back bearing are a strong indicator that the previous operator worked your BS hard with blunt blades and minimal attention to the bearings. It's the bearing siezing for periods of time with the blade being forced hard against it (as I said earlier, most likely blunt) that causes those grooves.

So long as the rest of the machine was better maintained, you ought to be able to put a new blade & bearings on it and expect reasonable cuts.

Whilst the guides look home made I can't see any reason why they wouldn't work acceptably, suspect they'd be a PITA to adjust though. When you replace the bearings make sure you get sealed bearings. Electra Beckum saws have guides very similar to your saw, see this thread - These guides look dodgy to me.. You could get some replacement guides, at a price, but if you can get the existing ones working ok what's the point?

The high tpi of the blade on the saw is why it cuts slowly. Depending on what you're expecting to do with the saw, as double.d has suggested, a low tpi (3 or less) carbide tipped blade would be a great investment, particularly if you're planning any resawing.

Thanks everyone for your thoughts and input on this. I've just ordered new sealed bearings and will be on the look for a 2400mm blade next, hopefully I can find a suitably priced CTB if not might start with a "normal" blade.

I saw today that timbecon (I think) had upper and lower guides complete assembly for $105.
But as others have said, your's look redeemable.
My almost identical saw has rubbing blocks top and bottom, and one is a scrap of wood until I can salvage the one that dropped into rubbish below...

I too just gave an old 24” saw a birthday, this is the blade guides I made for it, they work perfectly well. You don’t need to look for original manufacture parts, the bearings are generic and available from any bearing supplier,just take the old ones in for them to measure and you’re off. You don’t need a tungsten blade, plain steel are fine as long as they are sharp and tensioned correctly.

Originally Posted by Walshy25

Thanks everyone for your thoughts and input on this. I've just ordered new sealed bearings and will be on the look for a 2400mm blade next, hopefully I can find a suitably priced CTB if not might start with a "normal" blade.

Try CSK (Combined Saw And Knife) in Deception Bay

Originally Posted by double.d

Try CSK (Combined Saw And Knife) in Deception Bay

Thanks Double D - New blades purchased from CSK!