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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    4

    Question beginner question: Adding finishing touches to a project

    hi all,
    Im very new to wood working. I just made myself a table for my aquarium, out of white pine. Its looking pretty good, its balanced and flat. Now that I finished joining it all together, Im wondering how to make it look good -- how do i sand the whole thing? I dont really want to use finishes at this point. I just want the table to look neat and tidy. Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Kyabram
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    969

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    Sam

    I'm going to presume you got your Pine from Bunnings or a similar store, that it's pretty smooth already, and that you havn't bashed it up to much during constrution.
    First tip, i've found it much easier to sand the timber as much as possible before construction, but on a table it won't matter much.
    Get yourself a sanding block (whatever size fits your hand) and some sandpaper starting with about 180 grit and follow up with some 220 (sanding in the same direction as the grain).

    Not sure if I'm on the right track here Sam, hope this is of some use.

    Ps. there are some really easy to use finishes nowdays, I recomend Cabothan from Cabots, it's a clear varnish in a spraycan.

    There's a great little video on spraycan technique here...
    http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/wvt061.asp

    Or

    Try one of the new oil finishes, the best ones are as simple as wipe it on, wait about 20 minutes, then buff off the leftover oil... repeat this about 3 times.
    It's almost foolproof.


    Ben

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Brisbane, QLD, Australia
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    2,115

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    Hi there,

    ideally, the sharp edges on corners etc should be knocked off before assembly. You can use a router with roundover bits (or other profile of choice) to nip off the corners, or you can sand them down, even plane them down to a chamfer with a hand plane. Many ways to do it. If its already assembled though and you have some tight corners to get into to take out the sharp edges, a small handheld router might be the best choice.
    How much wood could the woodchuck chuck if the woodchuck could chuck wood?

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    4

    Default thanks a lot. but...

    thanks guys. I dont have a router, but I think I will get some of the sandpaper and sand the whole thing down.

    Although Im really not clear on what the process of sanding is supposed to do to the wood project. I have a small cordless detail sander, and, before starting this forum thread, I tried to sand it with 120 sandpaper. but nothing seemed to be happening to the wood. any change was very slight. Do I need to apply more pressure while sanding, or am i doing something wrong?
    It might be that I dont know what to look for in a sanded finish.
    Here's one more question: Should I make sure all the edges of the table, the legs, etc are sanded to a slight bevel? so its not sharp? . ..I dont know. any suggestions are eagerly welcome.

    Thanks again for your replies so far.
    P.S. Thanks Ben, for the info about finishing. I willlook into it also.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
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    Kyabram
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    Sam.

    With regaurds to sanding, the idea is to remove as much of the little lumps and bumps as possible, these are easier to feel than see. The timber should be smooth and 'soft' to the touch.
    This is done by running the sandpaper in a straight line up and down with the grain of the timber, the hard grit in the paper will cut off any raised timber fibers, and, with a little more work, lower the surounding timber to the same hight as any hollows, scratches, etc.
    You shouldn't need to apply to much pressure when sanding by hand or machine, just the weight of your arm + a little more.

    Taking the sharp edge off your timber is a bit of a must do, for two reasons, colisions with the table (not just little kids), and film type finishes (varnish, etc) will pull away (slightly) from sharp edges as they dry and contract (slightly). You won't be able to see it, but your timber won't be sealed properly.
    I've given myself a decent cut with the edge of some just planed pine, not the sort of thing you want in your living room.

    I'd suggest buying one of those 'Woodworking basics" books, some of them are really quite good.

    Ben.

    Still on the right track?

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    lower eyre peninsular
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    Tell us where you live there may be a woodwork club or similar that you could go to. Check out local high schools doing adult EDUCATION . See if they have ww classes I was going to one but when i realised I knew more than the 'teacher'[ahemm excuse me] I gave up and I am no expert. Tony

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    4

    Smile thats good information! thanks!

    Thanks Ben for your information about sanding. That is very very helpful. I wasnt able to understand it before. hmm, now i see how it is.
    I think i might also get one of the woodworking books. I am usually not very fond of books, but in this case, it might do me some good.

    Thanks Tony also.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Kilmore, near Melbourne, Australia
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    The Term "White Pine" is an American one, so perhaps youre not in Australia - nothing in your details indicates where - not that it matters - it is just more practical when others may be seeking to help with contacts/course details.

    Regarding your fishtank stand...I know you said you don't intend to "finish" is at this stage - this meaning: apply coats of somethingorother to the timber to seal it and enhance the grain figure etc..... be careful with what you use, as fish are very sensitive to such things. I guess the easiest thing to do is finish it with a low or no-smell clear and allow a couple of weeks for drying, away from the fishies.
    Steve
    Kilmore (Melbourne-ish)
    Australia

    ....catchy phrase here

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    4

    Default thank, steve.

    thanks steve, the next time I post a question, Ill make sure I give more information.
    hmm. Fish Are sensitive to that stuff. I think that drying out the finish far away from the fish, and then letting all the vapors go away for a few days, might be a good idea. after that I probably will get my fish tank on it. Actually it'll have to wait until the next time I clean out my tank, coz I dont want to stress the fish too often.

    but thanks!.

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