Thread: new bench

It sure is solid. Good Idea being the same height as the table saw.

Wrong forum!!

Go post that where it belongs - in the metalwork forum.


Seriously good stuphph though and i agree with the height idea.

Looks great Bob

Nice going. I like heavy steel benches.

Originally Posted by artme

Wrong forum!!

Go post that where it belongs - in the metalwork forum.


Seriously good stuphph though and i agree with the height idea.

i am in the process of having everything at the same height , would be beneficial in the long run i think.....bob

Nice solid bench there Bob.

The only downside to steel frame benches are that they can be a bit noisy, especially when you are using a hammer or mallet.

That bench ain't going anywhere. By the time you get the top on you will need help to move it. Looking good so far.

silky oak for a bench top?
i would keep that for making nice furniture,
i would use the ash, its probably harder than the silky oak too.
great bench btw, just need some wheels on it to move the bugger!

The Silky Oak's perfect for the Vice Jaw and front apron of the bench, bob. It compresses then springs back a bit.

The Crow's Ash is hard to come across. I'd be tempted to use the Silky Oak or something solid like ironbark or any of the light Tassie Oak grades (messmate, mountain ash or alpine ash.) The Silky Oak could be too springy for a benchtop in thin slabs, 2" probably should be thick enough to resist springing, especially with the centre support. If it was bouncing, at least a steel frame can be beefed up easily.

They say that light coloured timbers are better for benchtops. Having worked on masonite benches, things like screws and nails are harder to find.

Cheers,

eddie
Cheers,

eddie

Hi Bob, your bench frame is excellent, when you put your top on if you allow about 50mm overhang on the front you will be able to clamp stuff here and there! Not essential but handy although you will need to block out your vice, remembering to allow for the wooden jaws when you fit them. Timber on the top and timber on the shelf will take any ringing out of the structure, the only other thing to do is turn the frame upside down then weld in the bottoms of the feet so the bench doesn't chew it's way into your lovely concrete over time, that is if you haven't already done it. Or even bigger feet are better! It's good to see someone planning their workshop early, I worked off the low bench (the floor) for years until I could afford to do what you are doing now!

Nice work mate...Jeff

Originally Posted by Oddjob1

Hi Bob, your bench frame is excellent, when you put your top on if you allow about 50mm overhang on the front you will be able to clamp stuff here and there! Not essential but handy although you will need to block out your vice, remembering to allow for the wooden jaws when you fit them.

I agree, it's looking good. Regarding the overhang, I find it just as useful to be able to clamp onto the side of the bench as the top. This is where a flush to the top apron is useful. You can still clamp to the top across A-B, and to the side across C-D.

I used some 40 x 200 recycled jarrah as an apron on mine. I then put am easily replaceable 135 x 19 mm jarrah floor board http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...0&d=1140353996 facing ob
protective covering over that.

You could of course stall have an overhang and just block up the gap to the steel frame but finding the right size block just when you need it is always a problem

It's looking good Bob.

thankyou for those helpful hints on finiishing the top...................................bob