Thread: Bench grinder sharpener

Have a look in the sharpening forum for some ideas

To start I'd recommend the "scary sharp" system, which is cheap because you just use fine grit sandpaper on a flat surface like a sheet of glass.

You can make your own 'jig' to hold your blades at a constant angle or buy one like the Veritas Mk 2, which gets good reviews and costs around $80.

If your edges need serious repair work, then the next step up is a bench grinder or wetstone grinder, such as the Triton Wet and Dry Sharpener, which costs about $230.

And its important to remember that true sharpness is achieved in the final few delicate stages of the process - sharpening is not about buying the biggest or fastest machines.

Originally Posted by busso

Hi,
I am sick of the blunt drills,chisels and plane blades. As you may have already guessed I am an amateur woodworker who provided the bookcases desks and cabinets for the family because it was cheaper making than buying. Times have changed the kids have left home and while I can now afford to buy I now enjoy woodworking for the pleasure it gives me.
However the tools I have whilst old are good quality, but years of my amateurish sharpening has them in need of a good work over.
What is a good buy to professionally regrind chisels, plane blades and drill bits
Are this "white stones " on the generic bench grinders OK for chisel bevels or can they be only be done on a wet stone.
What stones are best for drill bits.
I'd be happy for a link to a good article or point me to where to start research.
I know there a lot in it and I thank you in advance for any help.

If your looking for a quick fix, my local Ace hardware sharpens tools for a couple bucks each, not terribly economical but they do good work.

Dear Busso,

Just on the subject of Drill Bits in particular, one subtle point that might be worth making is the fact that even if you find the most appropriate wheel in the world for sharpening your Drill Bits, it is the technique used with the Bits at the wheel that is by far more responsible for their correct sharpness. I haven't consistently nailed it yet; if I'm having a lucky day I might fluke one. The Old Timers (and a few Youngies that use Drill Bits heavily) sometimes have the technique down-pat. Failing the time and the need to get the proper technique down-pat, the best setup for consistently spot-on results in this regard would be the "Drill Doctor", but they're not cheap. If you don't go through Drill Bits heavily, it might therefore pay to just buy a new single Sutton-brand refill of the particular size that's gone blunt on you.

Best Wishes,
Batpig.

Busso,

There's a lot of opinions on sharpening.

I don't know why.

All trade use is a standard bench grinder either with a well dressed grey or white wheel. No need for a low speed or variable speed grinder. Definitely no need for a wet grinder, but they don't burn the steel.

You can get away with a bit more on a white wheel, the grey wheel burns the steel a little easier.

If we could host videos I'd put one up to show you the technique.

Basically, set the tool rest to give you the grind angle (about 30 degrees.) Then start the grinder up, and put the tool on the rest, not touching the wheel.

Advance the tool until it just kisses the wheel. Then move it at 90 degrees back and forth to the wheel with very little pressure against the wheel. i.e. pretend you're shaving a single grain of abrasive off the wheel. No need for a heavy touch.

The technique you learn by experience here is:

Moving at 90° to the wheel axis.
Stopping and changing direction without rocking the blade from side to side.
Not pressing too hard

At first, you'll burn the blade.
Then you'll only burn the corners.

But, in about an hour, you'll be able to do an acceptable job.

Drill bits are also a technique learnt through experience. There was a good summary in the high quality Australian mag (The glossy one that comes out every three months and doesn't show you how to build a rocking horse - is it called Australian Woodwork?) a few issues back.

There's a summary in here of how to grind hand drills. p17 or so.
http://www.ibiblio.net/hyperwar///US...s/TM_9_867.PDF

Probably also instructions on how to grind tools in this document as well. I didn't check.

Cheers,

eddie

Edit: As someone said above, the skill is in the honing. It doesn't matter what you use (I've got waterstones, oilstones and sandpaper on MDF,) the final STROP is the key to getting a good edge.

Suggest you look at Brent Beach's site on sharpening. Sorry I'm not flash hot on putting the info here for you, but Googling will find it.
He gives one of the best explanations on sharpening plane blades and chisels and the outlay for equipment is negligable. In the sharpening threads in this forum, look up Derek Cohen on "ten cent sharpening system" which is based on Brent Beach.
It won't help you with drill sharpening but will steer you away from misuse of a grinding wheel which can happen if you are not careful.

Jerry

War does not decide who is right. War only decides who is left.

Here is Brent's Sharpening Page and Derek's 10c system from his own website

Thanks Jeremy,

Must learn how it's done some time.


Jerry

War does no decide who is right. War only decides who is left.

Originally Posted by jerryc

Thanks Jeremy,

Must learn how it's done some time.


Jerry

War does no decide who is right. War only decides who is left.

Jerry

No great magic there (if I can do it, everyone can):

1. get the page you want to link to up in a fresh tab or window and copy the address
2. highlight the text in your message you want to use as a link
3. click on the symbol that has a picture of the globe and a horizontal paperclip
4. paste the target address in the space provided

Have fun linking

Jeremy

Thanks guys. I have been reading all the links and leads above and learnt a lot.
Perhaps the most important thing is that most grind too much too often and that honing should account for most blunt edges.
That "scary sharpening" opened my eyes and I will be using it.
Must add that, the manual linked by Eddie the Eagle was a great rap up of hand tools and I would recommend it.
I believe that I have only just started learning about sharp and that I have lots more to read and try. Thanks again.

busso

UPDATE: After much research I bought a Axminster slow turning grinder from Carba-Tec
mainly for versatility with other tasks. Switch on it and there was wheel wobble causing it vibrate something shocking. So with more searching I find this to be a very common occurrence with new grinders which doesn't say much for new technology. Still waiting on Axminsters technical support before I use it further.
Second point is that along with the grinder I purchased 8 other items from Carba-Tech on-line. However when the package arrived only 4 items were there. 5 items were listed as back order. You would think that online ordering would tell you if the item is in stock or not. Not withstanding I spoke twice on the phone and not once did I get any indication most of my order was out of stock. I will think twice before using Carba-tec online again. They have put way behind on items I could have got from elsewhere.
So..... I am getting there but not yet. Will update you when I am up and running with my sharpening.

The saga has finally come to a close with me cancelling the residue of my CarbaTec order. I have never encountered a firm with such a lack of communication. The deceit in allowing me to order online items which they didn't have in stock was bad enough but continually having to contact CarbaTec to get some idea of my order status was unprofessional. In the end (after 6 weeks) I just couldn't wait any longer because of other commitments. But he experience of online shopping with CarbaTec certainly wasn't pleasant.
By the way the bench grinder still has a bit of a wobble but have got it as good as it is going to get.
And with use of Veritas grinder rest and a Veritas honing guide I at last have very sharp tools which are a pleasure to use.
Thanks to all who supplied advice along the way.

At least with Carbatec you eventually get your goods. There is 'another' West Australian mob who are terrible at delivering the goods, happily lie to you on the phone then deny everything. Real time inventory & website sales software is available, but it costs....

Well I don't know if I would have eventually got all my order. Just couldn't get any communication.
Carbatec is by no means alone here. Many stores of all product types, from electronics to farm goods, put up a web site have a you beaut shopping trolley and expect sales galore. The quickest way to not get repeat web orders is to list an item without advising it is not in stock but take an order anyway. Many firms have web failures just because of this.
I hate it with vengeance.

You really cant go past a good wetstone.