Thread: Bent Wood Lamination

Nobody has any thoughts on the above???

Cheers,

WILL

Hi Jackliveshere,

I think bending/laminating would be much stronger than joining two pieces(end to end) to get the shape, but that could well depend on the timber and type of joint. What about steam bending? Would that be of interest to you?

cheers
Wendy

I would look at laminating, but if the curve is only at one end, you don't need to laminate the whole length. You just cut a series of 'fingers' in from one end, then insert the laminations to fill the kerfs, stick it in the former and you're done.

I'll see if I can find a reference for you.

Cheers
Michael

only reference I could find was in the Collins Complete woodworkers Manual. Here's a photo. It's a laminated kerfed bend, not the typical kerfing across the grain but this is in the end grain. Two thinner laminates might be needed in each kerf since they will bend more easily. Two different coloured timbers would make a decorative feature too

Bending is not a big deal yet it is a super strong unit.

The loss of material is nominal compared to the strength provided. I have done several pieces this way and have had great success. TS Kerf is 1/8" BS kerf is less but BS kerf is often wavy and so you loose more surface in the planing process to smooth out the ridges and hills and valleys, whilst you make a few small passes to clean up the saw marks, so the waste equals out.

Here is some of the bends I did last Spring...

These were slats cut from 4" X 4" timber, Planed to 1/8" Using Poly glue and of course wax paper between the slats and the form. Plenty of clamps produce a strong piece.

If you were to cut laminated timbers into a curved unit, you would create short grain areas and they would be weak, the bent pieces have no short grain and team together to provide an extreemly strong piece of wood.

what about laminating required amt like this, then cutting shape reqd:

woops, stuffed that up.
Try again, like this:

excuse my extremely bad graphics.

Hey Guys, thanks for the responses today

Originally Posted by RufflyRustic

Hi Jack,

I think bending/laminating would be much stronger than joining two pieces(end to end) to get the shape, but that could well depend on the timber and type of joint. What about steam bending? Would that be of interest to you?

cheers
Wendy

Yes I thought this too Wendy, that the glue lamination would be stronger, but was curious on whether anyone had done it the other way what joining methods would be appropriate in that situation.

Originally Posted by mic-d

I would look at laminating, but if the curve is only at one end, you don't need to laminate the whole length. You just cut a series of 'fingers' in from one end, then insert the laminations to fill the kerfs, stick it in the former and you're done.

only reference I could find was in the Collins Complete woodworkers Manual. Here's a photo. It's a laminated kerfed bend, not the typical kerfing across the grain but this is in the end grain. Two thinner laminates might be needed in each kerf since they will bend more easily. Two different coloured timbers would make a decorative feature too

Thanks for this Mic - I'm very interested in this method; have you tried it out before? This method seems like a good compromise by only laminating the curved section as the main part of the leg is solid. A few questions though; would you extend the kerf cuts into the straight part of the leg, if you know what i mean? That is, when you put the curve into the form, would part of the straight section of the leg be laminated? Kind of hard to explain, it makes perfect sense in my head haha. I'll definitely have to look into this method and see if it'd be feasible. Oh and another question, would the infill fingers keep tight up against the top of the curve once you apply pressure to the form?

And another question that just popped into my head; how would i make kerf cuts into the main leg with a tablesaw only as I don't have a bandsaw? That is, the end of a kerf cut would have a round shape due to the blade of the tablesaw wouldn't it?

Originally Posted by Hickory

Bending is not a big deal yet it is a super strong unit.

The loss of material is nominal compared to the strength provided. I have done several pieces this way and have had great success. TS Kerf is 1/8" BS kerf is less but BS kerf is often wavy and so you loose more surface in the planing process to smooth out the ridges and hills and valleys, whilst you make a few small passes to clean up the saw marks, so the waste equals out.

Yeah this is a good point thanks Hickory. There would be less clean up cutting the laminates with a table saw versus a band saw - well at a guess anyway since I've never used a bandsaw to cut laminates


TermiMonster; yeah what you have got there is what I'm stating for the second method. I just didn't show the laminates together, rather the cut out leg after it was laminated.


When it all comes down to it, I would prefer to use bent wood lamination as I've always wanted to try it out. I guess I'm just looking for a less wasteful method of doing it with a table saw. I definitely think Mic-d method has some credit and will be looking into it for sure.

Mic-d; I just had a closer look at your scanned picture & answered my question about the laminates starting in the straight section of the leg

I've attached a picture of something I did which is pretty much the same as what you are wanting to do. I used Termimonsters method, except that only two pieces were needed. I just wanted something quick and easy - laminations are time consuming. I also dont like the plywood effect of laminations.

Strengthwise - well its not a high-strength application so any approach would have done.

Without trying Mic-d's method, I have to admit I can foresee some problems there. My main concern would be the infill laminations pulling away from the end of the kerf as the end is bent. Just wondering

Arron

Never had need of the method myself, but had it filed away for a a rainy day. Thought it might suit your requirements.

I had been thinking about the issue you raised with the circular end of the kerf. Assuming you can jig it up to cut from both sides, the bottom could be cleaned up with a thin chisel or you could use laminates with a 'V'-shaped end to clear the waste in the kerf.
I don't expect it to be idiot-proof, but having never done it, I don't know what you might come up against. These type of things are a bit of trial and error on test pieces.
Goodluck!

From memory, Ross Annels may have used this in one of his designs. Perhaps he may help.
http://www.contemporaryfurniture.org...d=68&Itemid=75
Cheers
Michael

Yeah I think the technique has plenty of merit for my application - but I will admit that the method of implementing it with my current set of tools will take a bit of thinking through. If I end up using it I'll be sure to document it to share with all

Cheers,

WILL

I don't like the second one on the drawing. You are making it harder for yourself. You really should do the Lamination.

I've seen a similar curve done. It's a little hard to describe.
Like mic-d's but only 1 kerf is cut and a shaped wedge is inserted and the the thin "finger" is clamped back onto the inserted wedge. the finger is only about 4-5mm thick.

I hope this makes sence i can draw a pic if it helps.

I read my own post and it didn't make any sence. here is an even shodier drawing that might help.