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  1. #1
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    Default Bevel on plinth blocks

    I'd like to put a shallow bevel (maybe 15 degrees) on the top third of some plinth blocks. However, I have no idea how to do this safely.

    I've thought about using a jig on the sliding mitre saw, where I stand each block on its side and clamp it to the jig. Something like this:

    plinth-block-bevel-jig.jpg

    ... where the dotted line is the path of the saw blade. (note: in that image, the angle is exaggerated and the placement of the line is not accurate)

    Dimensions of plinth blocks = 150mm(H) x 90mm(W) x 30mm(D).

    I have a feeling, however, that I'm overlooking a much simpler approach that surely exists and, therefore, twisting myself this way and that to find a solution. I'm a novice woodworker and I've never made plinth blocks before so any guidance is greatly appreciated.

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  3. #2
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    May 2007
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    Default

    By hand with a block plane . Why with a power saw?

  4. #3
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    Nov 2021
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    Sunshine Coast, QLD
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    Default

    Why would you want to just put a bevel on the top, it would be better not to leave square corners on a plinth block sides, they will get knocked easily.

  5. #4
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    Default

    Hi there. Your jig is not bad. I would add a false fence to the SCMS, screw the 90° fence to that and use clamp to hold while cutting. This will support the end of the plinth block. Or cut on a table saw with a crosscut sled and a 15° slot

  6. #5
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by auscab View Post
    By hand with a block plane . Why with a power saw?
    good idea. i don't have a block plane, though, believe it or not!

  7. #6
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Camelot View Post
    Why would you want to just put a bevel on the top, it would be better not to leave square corners on a plinth block sides, they will get knocked easily.
    Thanks, Camelot. I agree. That's stage 2. First, I want to bevel the top face and then I was thinking of putting a roundover on each side. Perhaps that's silly; I don't know.

  8. #7
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mountain Ash View Post
    add a false fence to the SCMS, screw the 90° fence to that and use clamp to hold while cutting. This will support the end of the plinth block.
    Thank you.


    Quote Originally Posted by Mountain Ash View Post
    Or cut on a table saw with a crosscut sled and a 15° slot
    Yeah... that was actually my first thought because I've seen plenty of people on the YouTubes do things that way. However, I don't think my Triton Workcentre allows me to angle the saw beneath the table. (Although, I'd like to be wrong about that because it's looks like a simple way to do lots of things on a table saw.)

  9. #8
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    Hobart
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    Quote Originally Posted by tryingitathome View Post
    ... However, I don't think my Triton Workcentre allows me to angle the saw beneath the table. (Although, I'd like to be wrong ... )
    OK; you will be pleased to know that you are wrong.

    The angle adjustment is built into the saw itself, not the Triton table. You should be able to find a Triton video that explains all.

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by GraemeCook View Post
    OK; you will be pleased to know that you are wrong
    I am. Thank you, Graeme! Is that only in cross-cut mode or table saw mode as well?

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by tryingitathome View Post
    I am. Thank you, Graeme! Is that only in cross-cut mode or table saw mode as well?
    Both.

    When I bought my first workcentre way back in 1983, Triton had demonstrators touring hardware stores and woodwork shows demonstrating how to use the Triton - you couldn't avoid them. I learned a lot.

    With a new machine, then you also got a VHS tape and how to use it, plus a few projects. Very useful, and excellent marketing.

    If you just google "Triton workcentre videos" you will get many hits, and a lot of information (of varying quality).

  12. #11
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    Default Update: sketchy

    Well, I finally got around to making a test plinth block using the idea I sketched in the OP.

    It feels pretty sketchy in terms of safety, tbh.

    Also, the result was, uh, not great (See photo attached.)

    plinth-block-test.jpg

    I used a 100T blade and went slow, but still got a wandering line at the bottom of the bevel.

    Is there a way to get a nice clean cut using the proposed jig? Or would a bandsaw be a better? Or is there a simpler approach altogether? auscab suggested using a block plane, but I don't know how to do that so I get a consistent result (I've got about 20 to make).

    Thanks.

  13. #12
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    Nov 2021
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    Your plinth block should be functional and complement your architrave moulding profile, the functional part is that plinth blocks are meant to be replaceable should they get knocked rather than having to replace the complete length of architrave.

    From your pic I would say even if you did a nice clean cut your design doesn't look balanced, do you have a section plan of your architrave, that would help on how the plinth block should look.

    I have attached a pic of some plinth blocks I made for my house renovation a few years back, the back of the plinth block had to be wide enough to accept the large 12" skirting mouldings and then reduced in section to follow the shape of the architrave.

    Hallway 2.JPG

  14. #13
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    tryingitathome I made blocks out of MDF almost identical in size to yours. I rounded the corners with a 1/8"/3mm round over bit in a trim router. It suited the Craftsman style look.

    Camelot look away. My plinth blocks pale in comparison to yours.

    Pete
    Attached Images Attached Images

  15. #14
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    What the heck is a plinth block ? And where are they in the last two pictures?

    I was thinking of a block fitted under a cabinet to reinforce the plinth . A Glue block . With beveled corners . They are used on Plinth bases or around bracket feet on cabinet work . And are not seen unless you turn the cabinet upside down. The glueing surfaces are normally at 90 degrees and the outside corners are beveled sometimes or just beveled by splitting on older things . Quite often its not a huge bevel .


    Edit. Got it now . I Googled it .
    What are plinth blocks and how are they used?

    Not much of a size difference to what I was thinking .

  16. #15
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    Most of the plinth blocks used in the houses I have worked on were about 32mm thick, had a vertical bevel facing in to the doorway, had the skirts butting into the square edge, arcs sitting on top and and a roundover incorporated into the bevel. None as fancy as yours Camelot!

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