Thread: Bevel Zero Clearance Insert

This is something that I posted elsewhere but may be of use to you.

This works very well on a UniSaw and a Jet contractor model. You blokes have some different table saws so please do the test first to insure that this is possible on your particular table saw.

=======================================================================

The myth is that a Zero Clearance insert can not be made on a table saw for bevel cuts.

Well I was able to make one at 45° for my UniSaw.

And NO, I didn't burn my way through the insert.

Here is how and why it works.

The blade in a table saw is installed perpendicular (i.e. 90°) to the arbor. We adjust the arbor to be parallel with the table to get square cuts. When making cuts, best practice is to raise the blade so that the common gullet is about even with the top of the stock being cut.

The really important concept is that the arbor moves the blade up and down keeping the blade square to the table. Changing blade height is accomplished by moving the arbor. The arbor moves the blade in the same plane as the blade. Keep this in mind as we tilt the arbor.

When the arbor is tilted, the arbor is no longer parallel to the table. HOWEVER raising or lowering the tilted blade is still in the plane of the blade. When the blade is tilted, raising or lowering the blade is better described as extending the blade in or out of the throat of the saw. On your saw the position of the kerf closest to the table does not change (relative to the fence) regardless of blade height.


Test First
Try this on your saw. Lower the blade to below the table top. Install the factory throat plate. Change the angle of the blade to 45°. With your eye level at the table, slowly raise the blade. Observe the direction that the blade travels while being raised. You'll see why you can cut zero clearance inserts at an angle.