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Thread: black screws

  1. #16
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    Was at Bunnings today to pick up my panels.... saw these and remembered this thread.

    Probably nothing like what you are after... but I did think that it might lead to a search of the company to find alternative items they might sell.

    IMG_20210108_162838.jpg IMG_20210108_162843.jpg

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  3. #17
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    holey toledo batman, you go to a different Bunnings than I do.
    Will put these on hold until I visit a bigger store soon.
    I would love to grow my own food, but I can not find bacon seeds

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    usa
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    Default What about using ...?

    I don't know the chemistry so I'm probably totally off base here, but what about the blackening effect of just soaking hardware overnight in Evaporust?

    All I know is it reacts with rust, changing it to a different oxide. Almost anything steel I have dunked in it comes out black. Cheap, easy, no fumes. Even if I burnish it later, it still leaves a gray finish.

    Comments?

  5. #19
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    It would be project depending. For old timely/rustic furniture its probably fine.

    But for modern items flatt/matte black screws from bunnings work well.

  6. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by wood2woodknot View Post
    I don't know the chemistry so I'm probably totally off base here, but what about the blackening effect of just soaking hardware overnight in Evaporust?

    All I know is it reacts with rust, changing it to a different oxide. Almost anything steel I have dunked in it comes out black. Cheap, easy, no fumes. Even if I burnish it later, it still leaves a gray finish.

    Comments?
    Evaporust is good stuff but at $40/L I don't call it a cheap especially if you have to treat large objects.

    The online rumours are that it uses ethylenediaminetetraacetate (EDTA) plus a few other bits and pieces so that it has a neutral pH.
    EDTA is a well known Chelating agent used for industrial scale rust removal.
    Vinegar, citric and oxalic acids all work in the same way.
    The benefits of EDTA in a neutral formulation is that it will not affect other metals that might also be in contact with rusted objects and unlike some chelating agents like oxalic acid, leaves a grey finish.

    The MSDS says it uses between 5 and 15% chelating agent
    EDTA powder is also not cheap, the cheapest I have seen it is about $10 for 100g and when dissolved into 1L of water and neutralised works out to a more reasonable price but nowhere near as cheap as vinegar.
    However, in long term all steel threaded with all of these chelating agent rust removers will eventually rust again.

  7. #21
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    Oct 2016
    Location
    QLD
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    Haven't tried it myself, but I've read citric acid will do the trick to remove gavalised/nickel plating. It's quite mild, less risk of the acid solution corroding the part and much safer to handle than HCL. Pretty cheap as well, can pick up small amounts from the baking section in woolies or in bulk from specialty food stores.

    For smaller quantities, chemical blackening agents can also be purchased from gun shops (sold as 'gun blue' or similar).

    - - - Updated - - -

    Haven't tried it myself, but I've read citric acid will do the trick to remove gavalised/nickel plating. It's quite mild, less risk of the acid solution corroding the part and much safer to handle than HCL. Pretty cheap as well, can pick up small amounts from the baking section in woolies or in bulk from specialty food stores.

    For smaller quantities, chemical blackening agents can also be purchased from gun shops (sold as 'gun blue' or similar).

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