Thread: Blackwood dining table

Nice work Steve.

Love your tablesaw too.

Looks good Steve . Nice Blackwood too . What about a lock-mitre bit for the mitres

Peter

[quote=Auld Bassoon;475502]Instead of using solid timber for the 135 x 135 legs (which would weigh nearly 75 Kg each , and cost a pretty penny ),
I agree that the cost of the legs would be getting up but the weight should be much less than 75Kg each. Bootle gives the ADD for Blackwood as 870Kg/M3 and each of your legs would be 0.0146M3 for 800mm long legs which calculates to 12.7 Kg each

Peter

Originally Posted by martrix

Gday AB, sorry to nit pick, but how thick is the MDF? Looks like maybe 6 or 9mm MDF?

Are the area's where the mortises are to go solid? I'm probably missing something here....

Hi Martrix,

The main MDF elements to the core are just 6mm thick, but for where the mortices will go there is an additionall 12mm thick backer 100mm long and 90mm wide. So, with the 3mm skins that makes for 21mm of depth into which to mill the mortices.

As well, each rail will be located and attached with two domino loose tenons, so I don't expect this to be an issue.

I'll have a bit of a play with the prototype leg; if it doesn't look quite strong enough, then I'll mill a big mortice, and insert a more substantial solid block into which the domino mortices will be milled.

[quote=Peter36;476349]

Originally Posted by Auld Bassoon

Instead of using solid timber for the 135 x 135 legs (which would weigh nearly 75 Kg each , and cost a pretty penny ),
I agree that the cost of the legs would be getting up but the weight should be much less than 75Kg each. Bootle gives the ADD for Blackwood as 870Kg/M3 and each of your legs would be 0.0146M3 for 800mm long legs which calculates to 12.7 Kg each

Peter

Quite right, as I said earlier the first calculation was quickly done in my head - and was all screwed up The second calculation I show as being similar to your estimate.

Originally Posted by Peter36

Looks good Steve . Nice Blackwood too . What about a lock-mitre bit for the mitres

Peter

I have one of those, but for this sort of thing I prefer to cut one half of a mitre, then fine tune its mate so that it fits the core, same with the second pair, etc.

Originally Posted by TassieKiwi

Good idea, nicely executed. you also get the prize for the most useless pic ever posted!

Dennis

OK Here's a slightly better image taken from the magazine

Hi Steve,

Nice looking timber.

Your up way too early for a weekend.

Firstly I must admit I prefer solid timber - yes it's less stable and expensive but time expended is usually the biggest cost and that's a personal thing. But having said all that I do like the chunky look you are getting and it will be interesting to see the proportions of the frame.

By all accounts you seem to be getting a table that is half the mass of solid wood. With care to ensure you don't compromise the integrity and longevity of the joints you will reach a great outcome.

Looking forward to see how this project develops.

Aaaah yes with that clear scan I see what your setting out to do.

In relation to the finish I have a couple table projects to do - dining table and dressing table. I hear and read hard shellac is a good option - has anyone other or confirming thoughts on this ??

I was thinking 6mm MDF to hold a tenon on a Dining table !

Should have known you're well onto it and wouldn't dream of such a thing.

In my opinion, I would go ahead and glue the extra timber blocks for the mortises without even thinking.
It looks like its going to be a beautiful table with a lot of work in it, and I would hate to have the nagging thought in the back of my head "will it be strong enough"....or maybe thats just me.

anyway, I'm getting back in my box.

Progress has been a bit slow, but I've made up & fitted the slats for the end pieces, the rails, slat receivers (I made all four at the same time using the same jig to ensure consistency), filler and trim rails.

I've also made up & fitted the two cauls that will support the top, plus the upper & lower stretchers.

I've yet to make up & fit the little trim pieces that echo the trim rails on each of the legs (see magazine photo to see what I mean).

The top is being made up of some eleven boards because I just couldn't find any wider than about 90mm. I've reached the stage where there are now four sections ready to be joined together.

I'm debating on whether to use breadboard ends on this top or not. On narrow tops I quite like to use breadbards, but on a wider one like this (800mm), the movement is likely to be such that the width difference from the main top and the ends will be quite obvious. Thoughts?

What I first thought would be a simple job turned into a whole day's worth of fiddling and fettling - just for 32 little trim pieces that surround the trim boards on the ends and continue around the legs .

Glad that that bit's over and done with

Next up is to glue in the stretchers, then finish the top.

Some pics attached.

Comments welcome

That's interesting. In your earlier posts, I thought the legs looked too blocky, but the vertical stringers and the trim somehow make them look lighter. I'm not sure why this works, but it does, so what the heck. Looking forward to the final pics now.

Its looking very nice so far
About the Breadboard ends, I'd go for them rather than leave the end grain in view. I reckon they'll look good on this.
Have you checked the boards moisture? Also the time of year. From these calculations, you might be able to roughly judge the movement, and choose the best length end
I was told just to make sure the top doesnt move past the end. I think having an end slightly proud is generally accepted
Look forward to seeing more progress, cheers