Thread: Bow tie inlays - can anyone help?

McJings have a template and these guys do copper or brass. That said, if you have a chisel, hand saw, and marking out tools, you should be able to knock one up after a practice run or two.

If you need access to a bandsaw to knock some up there are plenty of mens sheds around, the NSW Woodworkers Association also has a great workshop in Abbotsford with members who are always happy to help.

Templates can be a bit oversize or undersize depending on the job.
Just cut a suitably sized bow using long grain - I used a handsaw to cut this one.
No template was used just some simple drawing.
Use the cut-out bow to trace over the area to be strengthened.
20211007_121423.jpg

Chisel out the waste
20211007_121536.jpg

I use a small router to finish the bottom of the cut-out
20211007_123017.jpg

Glue in place and plane to level
20211008_093922.jpg

Tom

Hi Tom, off topic but tell us about that plane please

Originally Posted by rwbuild

Hi Tom, off topic but tell us about that plane please

Hi Ray,
It is one of the two Millers Falls "Buck Rogers" planes that were made.
It is the number 709, there is also a 714 - roughly number 4-1/2 ish and number 5 in size
Mine are well used and not in collectable condition.
In good nick they are somewhat sought after.
Here's a link with more background:
Tool Profile – Millers Falls “Buck Rogers” Planes | Virginia Toolworks

Cheers
Tom

As Scribbly Gum says, there is no need for a template, though you could make one from cardboard if you need several at once. The recess is traced from the tie itself, so it doesn't have to be super-precise, just make sure you mark clearly which is which & the orientation, if doing several on the one piece.

I would cut the recess like Tom showed & finish with a hand router. It's important to get the bottom of the recess as flat as you can, it's your main glueing surface.

In an earlier time when I was more wedded to power tools I cut the recess with a 'lectric job. Knife the edge well, then rout carefully, staying just clear of your knife-lines. If you take it in steps, cutting no more than 4-5mm deep at a time it's easier to control the router. Chop on the lines with a (very) sharp chisel to finish. You can scrape a (very) slight taper on the bottom edge of the key to ease the fit.

The thickness of the tie will obviously depend on the thickness of the piece you are inlaying it in, I've not read any "rule of thumb" for what they should be so I made up my own - around a third of the thickness of the board or a bit less is my "standard". I work on the principle that two or three shallower keys along the crack is better than one deep one.

"Butterfly keys" as I've mostly seen them called were once used discreetly on the "down" side, so you could get away with something a bit less than perfect. They began to be "flaunted" more during the "craft revival" of the 70s & 80s. I'm a bit embarrassed to show this one, which is under the end of a large table, but the old recycled hoop pine it's set in was fiendishly difficult to cut cleanly without the edges chipping. It's actually very tight & doing it's job, & out of sight to all but very inebriated guests. I'd want a better look if it were on show!

28 Butterfly key.jpg

Usually, it's not that difficult to get a tight fit if you are careful and working with woods that cut cleanly. As already suggested, do a couple of practice ties & I think your confidence will be boosted. And if by chance you mess up a bit on the "real" job, you can always make a slightly larger key & re-do it..

Cheers,

Originally Posted by IanW

... It's actually very tight & doing it's job, & out of sight to all but very inebriated guests. ...

I like that.

If the guests see butterfies then they have had enough.

Originally Posted by IanW

The thickness of the tie will obviously depend on the thickness of the piece you are inlaying it in, I've not read any "rule of thumb" for what they should be so I made up my own - around a third of the thickness of the board or a bit less is my "standard". I work on the principle that two or three shallower keys along the crack is better than one deep one.

Yes, my "rule of thumb" turns out to be pretty much the same - probably a subconscious carryover from tenons/mortices sizing - I haven't really thought about it before.
A skew chisel or a fishtail is invaluable for getting into and cleaning out the corners.
I have a couple that I have ground myself from regular bench chisels - one is shown in pic 3.
This particular butterfly was for the inside wall of a small chest of drawers - so out of sight completely
Tom

Originally Posted by Scribbly Gum

Y.....This particular butterfly was for the inside wall of a small chest of drawers - so out of sight completely ...

Well, yer dunnit nice & neat Tom - it's good enough to show!

Cheers,

Originally Posted by IanW

Well, yer dunnit nice & neat Tom - it's good enough to show!

Cheers,

Aww shucks .........
I had to do another in the other side of the carcass as well.
It's in there somewhere

IMG_20220814_150138.jpg

Originally Posted by Alkahestic

McJings have a template and these guys do copper or brass. That said, if you have a chisel, hand saw, and marking out tools, you should be able to knock one up after a practice run or two.

Now thats handy as I have had to do several bowties recently all by hand. The template will come in very handy, thanks for the post info.

Originally Posted by IanW

28 Butterfly key.jpg

The irony in this pic. The butterfly to stop the cracking... And the butterfly has a crack LOL I like it!

Originally Posted by The Spin Doctor

The irony in this pic. The butterfly to stop the cracking... And the butterfly has a crack LOL I like it!

You're right - but I think it was only a shallow check & didn't go deep enough to affect the integrity of the piece (the insert is ~18mm thick). My bigger concern was those rough outer edges, they look most unprofessional! However, it seems to be doing it's job, the crack remained tight after I removed the clamp I'd squeezed it up with and it has remained so for more than 2 years. I do wish it looked a bit neater though.....

Cheers,

Thank you for your suggestions. I’ll try and cut one out and see how we go.