Thread: Making a box level?

Have you got a tablesaw? Or a hand-held circular saw?

Originally Posted by abungate

The best approach Ive come up with is to take my mitre guage, and use the base of the box as a guide, and go around the edges - giving me a line to machine down to. Then for the machining, use the (handheld) belt sander again.

Don't use the belt sander again. Plane it.

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the suggestions....

silentC:
I do have a tablesaw, but its a cheap, inaccurate GMC device. I used it to cut the carcass in half once it was glued (hence the need for sanding). It leaves a very unclean edge. I did think about this, followed by some sanding - but it may leave me where I am now.... what do you think?

Wongo:
I did think about the plane. Lately, Ive had varying sucesses with planes, and to me, a sander seems more controllable.

Cheers,
Andrew

Originally Posted by abungate

I do have a tablesaw, but its a cheap, inaccurate GMC device. I used it to cut the carcass in half once it was glued (hence the need for sanding). It leaves a very unclean edge.

Errrmm... what condition is the blade in? Even a GMC should be able to cut a crisp straight line. Sounds to me like the blade is either blunt, buckled or has bent teeth. OR you're crosscutting with a ripping blade...

OK, well I would run it through the saw again to get it all straight, then either use the plane to remove the saw marks (best option), or wrap a bit of sandpaper around an offcut and sand it by hand, being careful not to tip the sanding block to either side.

If you are in a hurry, go with the sandpaper, otherwise it's worth the time to practice with the plane on some scraps until you get it right. If you need any pointers on how to setup and use a plane, this is the place to ask

Andrew,

Have done the same thing, in haste, resorted to the sander and totally stuffed the job. Lesson learned.

Next job I marked a level line and used a rebate plane with a fence and even though it was a bit slower it worked just fine. The fence kept the edge square and I just sanded the edges by hand very lightly after.

As Wongo said, put the sander away. Best of luck.

Cheers
Pops

Hi Guys,

Pops:
I can understand that! I once destroyed a project with a power planer.

Skew ChiDAMN!!:
I havent looked at the blade in a while, but its always given an average cut. Thats on both cross cutting and ripping (I mainly use it for ripping). I think its because it has a flimsy aluminium guide, which has a little bit of give in it. I was going to pull it out and do a test cut this weekend, but Ive run out of time (weekends are always too short!)

silentC:
I might pull out the carcass and do some measurements. If its hugely off, running it through the saw might be an option. If its not too bad, I may go straight for the plane. The project has been on hold for about a year now, so its safe to say there's no rush

Originally Posted by silentC

If you need any pointers on how to setup and use a plane, this is the place to ask

The last time I used the plane, it was to reduce the thickness of a board of timber. There were two main problems....
1 - The plane would usually only cut in one direction (if I rotated the board 180 degress, it wouldnt cut the other way)
2 - At one place in the plane itself, timber shavings would get caught, which in turn would obstruct the blade. I pulled the plane apart and took a photo of the blade where it happens. In the attached photo, its between the two pieces of steel (they've been offset for the photo).

Ive tried setting that 2nd back piece of steel at different distances from the blade, but to no avail. Ive tried cutting at miniscule depths (barely shaving anything off at all), and the same problem occurs.

However, planing the edge of a piece of timber should be a lot easier than a board - so I'm not too concerned that I'll run into this problem. But, if this is a common thing you've heard of before, I'm all ears towards a solution....

As always, thanks a lot guys. And apologies for the long post!

Andrew,
As I finish more projects I find my skill at hiding my errors is inreasing at a faster rate to my skill at getting it right first time. I have learned though that the quickest way to ensure rework is to try to square something up with a free-hand power tool.
I have just finished a 800mm x 750mm storage box and had to do exactly the thing that you are contemplating (for a different reason - I do learn by my mistakes).
I do have the advantage of a WC2000 that does a nice job, so I reckon if you can get your TS to behave, a 1 or 2 mm planning cut with a 60 tooth saw is the answer. Must say though that controlling a 1.2 m high box might need a couple of pairs of hands.
I have never tried it but, if the saw is not an option, what about a router with a clamped guide for a profile following bit to follow - just a thought.

Ian

If i had a big box that needed the base level i would get the trusty belt sander out and find a nice flat spot on the concrete floor and put the box on it and vigourously rub the box back and foward then tip it over and the high spots will be all scuffed, then lightly sand off, and keep repeating untill its all flat and smooth

Im a plane novice like you but...

Is there a gap between the chip breaker and the blade when its tightened up?(chip breaker is what you been adjusting)
If so the chip breaker is bent... put it in the vice and give it a few gentle whacks a block of wood and hammer till it seats hard against the blade. You may need to flatten it on some sand paper after.

Good thinkin there Lig

Hi, Have you got a router and table,if so problem solved set up same as saw bench with straight cutter and you have perfect edges,or if you dont have a table just use your router, if are sure the bottom is straight run a pencil line around box parallel to bottom and clamp a guide board to the box the distance down from the line to equell the base of the router,so as to get a cut right on the line do this on the four sides and lid and you should have a perfect finish.......Peter

There shouldn't be any gap between the blade & cap iron.

May need a bit more of a bend as Harry said, this is to hold it tightly against the blade, as well as to apply a bit of tension to the blade to (theoretically ) reduce chatter with the thin stock blade.

It could, however, just need the front flat edge of the cap iron flattened so the leading edge seats firmly.

Adjust it to about 1/16" back from the sharp edge of the blade.


Cheers..................Sean

Originally Posted by scooter

Adjust it to about 1/16" back from the sharp edge of the blade.

Except that blade doesn't have a sharp edge.

Seriously, I'm suprised it cuts anything.