Thread: BOX LID PANELS-How to apply Veneer?-Also fixing?

Barry, I've applied veneer to many of the small boxes that I make. Most are set into a lid frame http://tinyurl.com/p5aa2 , but not all http://tinyurl.com/nnnjs .

I always apply veneer to both sides of the substrate. I do so for two reasons. I want to keep the forces applied to the substrate equal on both surfaces. And in small box lids, you need to have something to view on the bottom of the lid, so why not the same veneer?

As for using the glue and heat method, frankly, I can't see the point. I have used 'iron-on' veneer which comes with glue already applied. I don't like it much, but sometimes this is the cheapest way to obtain larger panels. My experience is that the application of heat causes the veneer to shrink, and discolour.

I have veneered small box lid-panels in three different ways.

1. I apply glue to the MDF substrate using a hard black rubber roller. It's important to cover the entire surface, because if any is missed the veneer will not adhere to this portion of the MDF. (I tend not to apply glue to the veneer, because usually these have a fairly delicate, somewhat 'crinkly' surface to which it is difficult to apply a uniform thickness of glue.) I pre-moisten the veneer by sponging it down with a little water. This makes it more supple, easier to flatten out. As a result this tends to prevent it cracking. I have used a number of different glues, but am finding TiteBond III to be good for this. Next I apply pressure to the entire surface by covering both sides with clear kitchen-wrap and placing the veneered panel between two sheets of 19mm MDF, then put this 'sandwich' into my bench vise and crank as hard as I can. I tend to leave overnight to fully cure.
2. I have also used clamping cauls. These are required when the panel is larger and won't fit entirely within the jaws of my bench vise. The cauls are convexed in the centres so that when clamping pressure is applied to the overhanging cauls, pressure is transfered to the centre of the panel.
3. Recently, I have been using a manual vacuum press from Carba-tec. http://tinyurl.com/k3uh4 It holds between 1200 and 1400psi pressure without leaking for prolonged periods (well past glue or epoxy curring times).

I veneered a tabletop using pva and heat, all went well until I went to finish the top with shellac, the alcohol dissolved the pva and the veneer came adrift in places.
Finally got it all back down again but I believe it was the quality, or lack of, in the pva I was using.
I now use Titebond yellow glue (can't recall what it's called and I'm not in the shed) and haven't had any problems.

Hi Barry,

I've got a couple of minutes to answer this before I have to rush off.

Firstly, I assume that the lid of the box is a floating panel in a mitred frame or similar, and you've got it out of the box (or the box in pieces) at the moment.

I'd veneer the lid panel with burl and put a counterbalancing veneer onto the underside of the lid. The MDF will still cup with a veneer on one side.

To veneer the lid, I'd put a thin coating of PVA on both the veneer underside and the substrate (both sides), put the veneer on and then press the thing down - for a box lid, you could use conveniently sized cauls or a vacuum bag from target - the ones that they use to store clothes and winter quilts in - I think that they're called spacesaver bags or something like that.

Don't skimp on the glue (you need to form a decent glueline) but don't drown the thing either.

Use newspaper between the caul and the panel to avoid gluing your lid panel to the cauls.

You could glue the panel in - movement won't be that significant.

Cheers,

eddie

Many thanks for the responses so far - appreciate the good advice
It appears that I didn't explain the box clearly enough
I plan to dovetail the four panels, slot them, glue dovetails, glue in base panels, then cut the lid off
Hence my hope to be able to glue the mdf lid panel all round to give the lid more strength
Best regards
Barry