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  1. #1
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    Default Brass filled cracks

    Has anyone had any practical experience filling cracks/voids in timber with melted brass?

    Doable?

    What's the process/ pitfalls/ advice?

    Cheers,

    Cam.

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  3. #2
    rrich Guest

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    I would think that melted brass would char the wood.

  4. #3
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    Brass melts at pretty close to 1,000 degrees C, and wood is one of those hard to dry materials, so to me the idea screams of steam explosions, huge areas of charred timber, and large puddles of molten brass dripping onto the floor, not to mention the difficulty of machining it flat after.

    Even the traditional six foot pole wouldn't put me at the sort of distance I'd like to be away from that sort of activity!

    I think you'd be better off using an epoxy resin and some bronzing powder to mimic the effect - Metal Powders - Barnes Products

    The other option would be brass turnings in clear resin.

  5. #4
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    Aside from the issue of getting to the 900+ degree melting point (and all the associated safety risks), filling large voids may pose an issue as the brass cools and shrinks away from the edges. Small cracks may also cool and solidify before they're full.

    A much safer method would be to use brass powder and a clear epoxy resin, although the look won't quite be that same as solid brass.

  6. #5
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    Well it seemed like such a good idea...

  7. #6
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    Use pewter instead. Different color, but similar effect. http://www.woodcraftguild.org.au/wp-...od-turning.pdf

    Cheers,
    Joe
    Of course truth is stranger than fiction.
    Fiction has to make sense. - Mark Twain

  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by joe greiner View Post
    Use pewter instead. Different color, but similar effect. http://www.woodcraftguild.org.au/wp-...od-turning.pdf

    Cheers,
    Joe
    Just make sure it's the lead-free stuff

  9. #8
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    .... not "melted brass" but l have created the impression of inlaid brass by mixing epoxy and fine brass powder, filling the void/s and then polishing it?

    fletty
    a rock is an obsolete tool ......... until you don’t have a hammer!

  10. #9
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    Default

    great! any way to modify the colour?

  11. #10
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    You can only modify the colour before you do the epoxy pour - after that, you're pretty much stuck with whatever colour you started with as the epoxy will prevent tarnishing of anything but the very surface layer.

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cam.H View Post
    great! any way to modify the colour?
    Sorry Cam, l thought you were referring to Joe's pewter suggestion. Yes, you can make many colour changes using metal powders. If you use brass, copper or bronze dust with different coloured epoxy, you can get many different effects.

    fletty
    a rock is an obsolete tool ......... until you don’t have a hammer!

  13. #12
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    The local key cutter can be a source of brass shavings
    regards
    Nick
    veni, vidi,
    tornavi
    Without wood it's just ...

  14. #13
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    .... also have a look at metalpowders.com.au and many model shops sell it as 'weathering powders' for adding realistic finishes to scale models.

    fletty
    a rock is an obsolete tool ......... until you don’t have a hammer!

  15. #14
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    You can buy fine brass powder from a lot of your woodworking shops. DON'T mix it with epoxy though, you should use thin CA. A bit of brass, bit of CA, bit of brass, etc until filled. Brass powder is actually brown and tarnished, you will not get the brass finish until cut back, plus don't flood the brass powder only a drop at a time. If you use epoxy when you cut it you get a very few sparkles of brass and a lot of epoxy. By using thin CA, not the cheap crap, the glue flows through leaving a solid block of brass. Any small voids can be refilled with more brass/CA

    I use it all the time as it is fantastic with dark timbers, like the Penny Leaf shown, but looks good with most timbers.
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  16. #15
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    I've done and used what Nick said... collected filings from key cutters.
    Experienced in removing the tree from the furniture

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