Thread: Breadboard ends - a different approach

Because of the cross-grain problem, this would be asking for the joint to fail over the medium term. (Rocker)

You may be interested that I have my grandfather's rolltop desk and the breadboard ends were glued perhaps 80 years ago- they have not failed. Perhaps it's because they are tucked away and don't see the light or extremes of humidity.
They have a slotted tenon into the end.
Carry Pine

Carry Pine,

The plans I referred to suggested simply glueing and nailing the edging strip to the end-grain of the draw board with no tenon. I was sceptical that such a joint could last. If it had a tenon, as in your grandfather's desk, that would be a different matter.

Rocker

Rocker,

As I have consistently failed photo's here is attempt one.

John

Originally Posted by Rocker

Here are a couple of pics of the plugged dowel and screw holes.

I attached a cleat on the underside of the draw board near its back end as a stop, to prevent the board from being pulled right out or pushed too far in. It also serves to prevent the board from cupping.

Rocker

Rocker, im curious as to why you drilled/screwed in the end like you have instead of underneath:confused: Was their a reason

Johnc,

Thanks for the pic. I am sure your drawer boards must have properly made breadboard ends if they have lasted 70 years without failure. I hope mine will last as long or longer too.

Originally Posted by Lignum

Rocker, im curious as to why you drilled/screwed in the end like you have instead of underneath:confused: Was their a reason

Lignum,
I am not quite sure if I have understood your question. First, let me say that my draw board is made differently from Johnc's. On mine, the breadboard edging is on the front end of the drawboard and the grain of the main part of the board runs from front to back. The reason that I was wary of inserting a dowel from underneath is that the board is only about 17.5 mm thick, and I felt that there was not sufficient thickness there to have a useful length of dowel, if I wanted to plug the dowel hole. By drilling the dowel hole from the side, as shown in the first pic in post #14, I was able to drill a 40 mm deep hole for the dowel without any worries about penetrating the upper surface of the board.

Rocker

Sorry i didnt make myself clear On the majority of breadboards the mid section is as you have done glued and screwed, and the ends of the tennon, or in this case loose tennon, is in the main section as you have done (blue bit). The mortices in the end "breadboard" is elongated as you have done, but instead of screwing from the edge (which also looks unsightly) is screwed into position underneath and also in a elongated slot (idealy with a small washer in place) and screwed up only into the tennon as i have shown in the yellow and red. Thats what stops it popping out and also alows it movement. Hope thats ok to understand

Lignum,

Thanks for your explanation. I don't really think the plugged dowel/screw holes are unsightly. They are not that easy to see at all. The two screws in my boards provide a backup, in case the glue holding the central loose tenon were to fail totally. Using loose tenons, it would require at least six screws from underneath to provide security against glue failure, if screwing into the tenons from underneath as you suggest. All that seems to me to be too much trouble.

Rocker

Either way you do it, the roll top is looking a treat Im realy looking foward to seing the final lot of pics all polished up. A roll top desk is definetly one of the finer pieces of furniture you can make and own. Well done so far