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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
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    Default How to get this broke pipe out (w pic)

    So my ladder falls and hits the (cheap) aftermarket regulator I have attached to my compressor and breaks the (accompanying cheap) connection pipe off flush with the compressor component leaving about 1/3" of threaded pipe inside the compressor component itself. If it would've broken on the regulator side I could just remove the rest of the pipe and replace the whole thing. But as it stands I'm gonna have to work the last bit of this male pipe out of the female threads. The pipe is copper so maybe that'll end up being to my advantage. How would you go about removing something like this? My camera takes bad close ups but to give some perspective the I.D. of the pipe is .40 in. Drew that line in there to show the end of the pipe.

    I've got easy outs for rounded nuts but I'm not sure if there's anything like that for this situation. Can't be the first time it's happened to someone.

    I'm afraid the pipe is in there fairly snug so I don't think prying one side up with a pic and then trying to work it around with some needle nose pliers is gonna get any kind of result.

    I'm all ears. Thanks.





    pipe.jpg

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  3. #2
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    Default

    Sorry I cannot help, Bradley, but I really do appreciate when someone has a stuff up that I have not yet made!

    A question: What is the metal holding the female thread - hope its harder than the copper.

    Close up photos: I have the same problem. My solution is is to take the closest in focus photo that I can and later crop it to keep the relevant bit.

  4. #3
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    I would try a tapered object such as a small triangular file or the end of a regular file with the handle removed tap it in softly and see if it will bite

    you could also try a tapered flat blade screw driver after carefully filing a slot into the inside of the pipe if possible'
    you would have to be careful with any of these, that you dont expand the pipe anymore making it harder to turn

    if none of those work, if there's a raised edge you could gently try collapsing the pipe inwards, hopefully it could become easier to turn by doing so

    good luck

  5. #4
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    + 1 for the triangular file suggestion. A problem you may find is that they've used Locktite or some such on the thread. If possible, you might need to apply a little bit of heat to the pipe to soften it.
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  6. #5
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  7. #6
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    Default

    I would use the file first then a tapered piece of wood dowel rod to try working the copper pipe back.
    Johnno

    Everyone has a photographic memory, some just don't have film.

  8. #7
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    Perth
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    +1 for the extractor screw set.

    Also there is a good chance that either Loctite or gas thread sealant was use so you nee to get it hot than a couple of hundred to melt the sealer while you try an extract it..

  9. #8
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    Either an easy out if you can get one. Otherwise try tapping an Allen key in that is slightly oversized, maybe even use a triangle file to file the six points of contact for an Allen key so you can go a bit bigger. Torx bit might be a substitute for the Allen keys if you have those.

    Cheers Andrew

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
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    Canberra
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    Easy as.

    Use two bolts.

    Ill find a video.

    Edit: I cant seem to find a video or picture. So Let me describe until I do. One obtains two bolts that fit into the inside of the sheered pipe. They are to be a reasonable fit, but they don't need to screw in or anything. One of the bolts is tipped on an angle, wedging the two bolts IN the pipe... and the centre one unwinds (using a spanner) the sheered pipe. The tipped bolt tightens even more, acting like a torque-vice, as more force is applied to the other bolt doing the undoing.

    Does this make sense? A short video is obviously better. I've seen this done in machinists shops. Ive also seen plumbers do EXACTLY this for removing sheered taps....

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by woodPixel View Post
    Easy as.

    Use two bolts.

    Ill find a video.

    Edit: I cant seem to find a video or picture. So Let me describe until I do. One obtains two bolts that fit into the inside of the sheered pipe. They are to be a reasonable fit, but they don't need to screw in or anything. One of the bolts is tipped on an angle, wedging the two bolts IN the pipe... and the centre one unwinds (using a spanner) the sheered pipe. The tipped bolt tightens even more, acting like a torque-vice, as more force is applied to the other bolt doing the undoing.

    Does this make sense? A short video is obviously better. I've seen this done in machinists shops. Ive also seen plumbers do EXACTLY this for removing sheered taps....
    I'm interested, let us know if you find the video

  12. #11
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    The PRINCIPLE is the same as this fancy doodad, but one just uses two bolts.

    Simply by offsetting (tilting) one of the bolts causes it to lock up. The reason for "bolts" is they have threads to grip the inside of the broken off NPT.

    I can't for the life of me find that video again. Curses!





    EDIT - Jesus H Christ this took some finding!

    Here is how its done. Modify a bit to accommodate the deeper broken thread.


  13. #12
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    Lightbulb

    thanks for that, certainly is a bit of ingenuity,

    after 45 years in the plumbing industry working with threaded pipe I never saw that one

    just goes to show you CAN teach old dogs new tricks

  14. #13
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    Feb 2016
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    Canberra
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    Hodgo, how cool is it.

    I've seen it twice by plumbers - first was a galvanised pipe in a yard that had broken it off, the second was a video of some dude in a shithole like Afghanistan where there was a bathroom tub spout that was broken off at the tiles.

    I saw a machinist do this once to release a rather large ID pipe that was broken off in another. No fancy gear, just grabbed two bolts and unwound it. Neato!

  15. #14
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    Oct 2019
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    Lexington, KY
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    Man thanks for that 2 bolt tip video. One of the best tricks I've seen in a while. ID for my problem pipe is .40 and I don't think I had any bolts that would've done the trick. In the end I used some easy outs and because the threads are NPT the whole thing just kind of fell out once it broke loose. Glad I know these handy little tools exist now.

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