Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 24 of 24
  1. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    73
    Posts
    358

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by malb View Post
    ... and properly torqued bolts or nuts.
    Despite various dives into the unlimited 'knowledge' on the internet, I've seen countless confident opinions for and against but have never been able to get a definite, informed answer to this question: When torque is prescribed for a bolt or nut, is it for a dry or lubricated thread?

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Age
    2010
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Bundaberg
    Age
    54
    Posts
    3,429

    Default

    Despite Britain leading the Industrial Revolution and inventing standardised threadforms it was the Americans who really got behind establishing proper standards for manufacturing and construction; and the rest of the world ended up pretty much following them. As per ASME and ANSI unless it states “dry” then threads and contact faces should be lubed with SAE 40 weight oil. So for a bolt that’s the threads and under the bolt head, for a stud then again it’s the threads plus the face of the nut. Also the threads have to be manufactured to specific tolerances and clean.
    Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    73
    Posts
    358

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Chief Tiff View Post
    Despite Britain leading the Industrial Revolution and inventing standardised threadforms it was the Americans who really got behind establishing proper standards for manufacturing and construction; and the rest of the world ended up pretty much following them. As per ASME and ANSI unless it states “dry” then threads and contact faces should be lubed with SAE 40 weight oil. So for a bolt that’s the threads and under the bolt head, for a stud then again it’s the threads plus the face of the nut. Also the threads have to be manufactured to specific tolerances and clean.
    AH HA!

    That explains why there are strong opinions on both sides, but until your post I haven't seen such a clear and simple explanation of the differences as opinions I've seen seem to approach the issue on the basis that it's a universal dry or lube. Thanks.

    I've probably very carefully torqued countless bolts dry when they should be lubed, and vice versa, because I don't recall seeing any advice to the contrary in workshop manuals etc. No doubt that's because the writers / manufacturers of technical manuals directed to qualified tradespeople reasonably assume that readers understand what you've just said.

    I feel a little better knowing that some of the confident opinions I've seen in the past on make specific and more general car and outboard forums by qualified mechanics weren't any clearer on the issue than I was until a few minutes ago.

    Thanks again.

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    73
    Posts
    358

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Chief Tiff View Post
    Despite Britain leading the Industrial Revolution and inventing standardised threadforms it was the Americans who really got behind establishing proper standards for manufacturing and construction; and the rest of the world ended up pretty much following them.
    Off topic, but building on this.

    I have an interest in military history.

    When the US started supplying Britain with motor vehicles, aeroplanes and other materiel in WWII, British mechanics were often astonished by the accuracy and simplicity of replacement parts for American machines due to the consistency of production control (which isn't the same as quality control). Pull the old one out, slip the new one in. No reaming, filing, peening or other on site modification to make the item fit as often required by British products.

    Meanwhile the Germans, despite their supposedly brilliant engineering and improved production under Speer, were actually producing things like main battle tanks in a sort of cottage industry with various makers supposedly making the same components in diversified factories with problems about production control, further complicated in some instances by using unqualified and hostile slave labour.

    America's immense and hugely efficient production line processes and manufacturing capacity ensured that it would win the war so far as those aspects went.

    Post-war, W Edwards Deming, an American statistician who developed management, production and quality control methods which were ignored in America was instrumental in applying them to industrial production in Japan, which saw the higher and consistent quality of Japanese consumer and other goods start to overtake American ones by the mid-1960s.

    If only the Americans had taken notice of Deming and his quality control principles like the Japanese did, they could have maintained their dominance in mass production. Instead they produced the unstable Chevy Corvair and fire prone Ford Pinto and gave birth to Ralph Nader and other consumer advocates, without whom the consumer protection movement and protections might have taken very much longer to emerge. Quite a step down from American manufacturing dominance a bare two decades earlier, and entirely an American 'own goal'.

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    2,210

    Default

    That problem of production control was avoided here when we chose US manufacturing equipment and methods to produce the Lee Enfield rifles at Lithgow. A major hiccup was the ‘Enfield Inch’ But the yanks were up to it.
    I understand Henry Ford didn’t produce the Merlin for RR because of the tolerances specified meant hand fitting which doesn’t work for mass production with whatever labour the drafts have left.
    The German cottage industry was a major problem for the allied bombing effort so I guess that’s where the idea of wiping out whole citys by firebombing happened.
    H.
    Jimcracks for the rich and/or wealthy. (aka GKB '88)

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Leopold, Victoria
    Age
    65
    Posts
    4,685

    Default

    Maybe this article helps to clear up the requirements when torqueing bolts, but it doesn't help the problem where this thread all started. The important thing when tightening down a head is that it is flat and all bolts are done to the same correct torque.

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Bendigo
    Age
    60
    Posts
    241

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Treecycle View Post
    The important thing when tightening down a head is that it is flat and all bolts are done to the same correct torque.
    Except when different torque specs are specified for some of the bolts!
    https://arpinstructions.com/instructions/134-3610.pdf
    Last edited by droog; 12th August 2023 at 10:48 AM. Reason: Reference links

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    73
    Posts
    358

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by droog View Post
    Except when different torque specs are specified for some of the bolts!
    StackPath
    Can't say I've done heaps of head work and it's a long time ago, but IIRC the same torque applied to all bolts or studs. Those torque limits sound weird, almost as if the compression ratio is 2/3 lower on bolts 11 to 15 than the rest, which obviously it can't be. Any idea why such a big difference on one side of the same head?

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Bendigo
    Age
    60
    Posts
    241

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 419 View Post
    Can't say I've done heaps of head work and it's a long time ago, but IIRC the same torque applied to all bolts or studs. Those torque limits sound weird, almost as if the compression ratio is 2/3 lower on bolts 11 to 15 than the rest, which obviously it can't be. Any idea why such a big difference on one side of the same head?
    Because they are short bolts into limited amount of block material, they are also smaller thread size.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Similar Threads

  1. Budget router table mounted on a budget table saw
    By perthwoody in forum ROUTING FORUM
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 24th December 2021, 04:32 PM
  2. Budget friendly sharpening stones
    By Fergy1987 in forum SHARPENING
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 14th April 2017, 11:29 AM
  3. know where to buy a good straightedge ?
    By JDarvall in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 24
    Last Post: 21st June 2011, 11:50 AM
  4. Straightedge - Veritas, Stewmac, Starrett or...?
    By highfieldtonewerks in forum MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 17th February 2010, 08:40 PM
  5. Straightedge
    By floyd7 in forum HAND TOOLS - POWERED
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 8th August 2006, 10:04 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •